Has anyone used this https://www.opentip.com/product.php?products_id=5333613&url_static_flag=1 Replacement for Marshall AVT output board board from CED
AND thank you to the @ampmadscientist! In this unit I replaced the 2) 330mf caps (swollen) and the bridge to get it going, then output trans because it was cutting out every 15 mins, then re-soldered the connections on the rear PCB all around the 8ohm/4ohm switch, fixed my polarity on the new...
Yes thank you. I figured that out this afternoon. Once I was sure that the cables were connected right I found the +15v was also missing on ICs 1 & 2 on the rear PCB. Then I saw the zeners. One was shorted. I used an NTE 145A to replace it. Amp sounds great. I'll fire it up tomorrow again before...
Front: JCM2000 Dual Super Lead Back M-1998-06-0620-B All my audio leads are right now and the amps plays well. Except for the reverb. Digging into that fresh now
I found this video from the Guitologist. Starting at 21:40 he goes through all the audio leads very clearly and slowly. I was able to write them down and see the connectors. I'll try this tomorrow at work.
I'm back to describing the problem as a loss of +15v to IC1 & IC2. I'm seeing 15v where I should be seeing 30v across the ICs. Also I want to conform that I have this plugged in right. There are only 3 connectors. Cons 1,2 & 3. Still not sure they are plugged in right. I think Con 3 goes to...
Good morning "ampmadscientist"! After looking at the reverb board in this particular unit I see there is no ZD1 or ZD2. The 3 pin power connector (con3) has 1 white and 2 blues on it. From white to blues I get -16 or +21. Across the blues is +36. After plugging in Conn 3 I get +17, -17 and 31v...
Ok! I was reading from chassis ground to pins 4 & 11. I got -16 on pin 4, nothing on pin 11. The same with IC 2. -16v on pin 4 and nothing on pin 8. Also I had checked continuity from IC1 pin 11 to IC2 Pin8...it was good. So if we look at the voltage on the 3-pin Con 3 (plugs into the little...
I've fixed a lot of things on this amp and it sounds good. The only thing left is the reverb. Checked the cable, tried another tank. The output side of the original tank reads about 200 ohms. The input side reads about 25 ohms. I obviously can see that I'm missing the +15 volts at both IC1 and...
I'm sorry on 2 counts. I didn't see you had posted the diagram already AND you had clearly specified W3/W4. (apparently I can't read this week). Note: I just ran back to the shop. Swapped the w3/w4. Adjusted the bias up to about 80 mvs. To me it sounds good. Monday I'll see why the reverb...
Here is the Classic Tone output trans we used. It sounded awful with the primary lead switches you recommended BUT it stopped the squeal. So I "assumed" the brown lead is the center tap as per the Classic Tone diagram and cause it's physically in the center between the Red & White. I plugged...
Boom! That was it. Ugh! Another question while your here. The new transformer is a Classic Tone 40-18055, It has a violet AND and a green wire for the 4 ohm output. I'm using the green wire only and leaving the vio unhooked. Is that correct?
I need some advice on a DSL100. I've fixed a lot of things on this customer unit but now I'm stumped. To make a long story short, I first had to chase down a loss of heater voltage on V1, V2. Fixed that with new bridge and 2 new 315 mf caps in the HT. The old caps checked ok but were swollen...