The first thing to check is whether you have any of the built in EQ stuff engaged. Are you running from one of the line outs, or the headphone out? And did you adjust the reactive load settings? They have quite a bit of impact no matter whether you're taking a line out or the speaker out. And...
Yes and no. For one, you lose cone breakup if you aren't pushing the speakers at least a bit. That doesn't mean putting 100 watts into a 20 watt speaker, but it also means you often lose something putting 20 watts into a 100 watt speaker. Now, if you don't want the speaker to break up because...
I'm running a Suhr SL68 with a BOSS Tube Amp Expander. It's my favorite so far. I've also used a Weber which was really good but wouldn't handle the SL68, and a Rockman Power soak. I've tried a few others, but like the BOSS for the ability to tweak the response curve of the attenuator, built in...
Every speaker I tried in the DLS40 sounded fizzy unless the master was at least 6-7 or higher. My favorite speaker ended up being the vintage 30, the stock speaker in the DSL40CR. Or maybe try the bright cap clipping trick. I never did that because I ran mine through an attenuator for power amp...
The DSL series, like pretty much all the tube Marshalls, needs to be loud to sound good. Set the master to between 6 and 7 and see if it still sounds fizzy. When I had a DSL, that was where the amp "woke up" and started to sing. Since that's probably too loud, put in a good reactive load. I had...
I started buying from these guys: https://reverb.com/shop/audio-tubes-direct. They ship really quickly, tubes are always well packed, and they offer something I don't see many other places call out; the need for a balanced triode in the inverter position. It makes perfect sense though. You're...
Marshall Classic 4x12 bottom cab loaded with greenbacks. I'll pick up a top cab for it one of these days, but for now I'm just digging the sound. I don't even care if I play a wrong note; they all sound good. ;)
I finally got one. And it's everything I'd hoped it'd be and more. Just an absolutely amazing sounding amp if late '60s Marshall Plexi sound is your thing, but without the crazy prices those amps get. Sounds so much better than even the best youtube video demos. I'm just blown away.
Here's the thing though; I had one of these for several years. Trying to get all the gain from the preamp is the wrong approach, but a common one. The amp doesn't open up and start to really sing unless you add power tube distortion into the mix. That's where the classic Marshall sound comes...
Get a weber mass 100, turn the master up to about 6 and a half, be amazed. They're under $300 US.
And anyone that thinks the problem is the preamp circuit is simply wrong. There is no "problem", but like any piece of gear, there are limitations. These are Marshalls, and as such, need to be run...
A glorious "little" amp. Now do yourself a big favor and get a reactive load attenuator. I used a Weber Mass 100 on mine. They aren't terribly expensive. And the reason I say this is that like most Marshalls, they're meant to be cranked. On mine, the sweet spot for both the green and red...
Nothing will ever replace the sound of a 1959 in the sweet spot. At least not until they can capture the touch sensitivity and other factors that make it so special in some sort of emulator.
And for those saying attenuators are band-aids, all I can say is you've never played through a good...
I hear definite breakup from the power tubes. Going up on the volume passed 6, the sound gets much thicker. You have to get these amps up passed at least 3 just to start to get a good sound out of them and I run mine a bit passed 6. I use a weber attenuator to maintain dynamics and control the...
What I've found playing with a power soak is that right @ 6 on the volume, the highs start getting rolled off fast and the sounds gets increasingly thicker and darker as you go up. I just wish I got some power tube breakup to go with it. That's biased at 38 using sovteks.