2 DIY Amp boxes questions

[Nuts]

Hello everyone !
1. I have a "naked" Marshall TSL 122 that I'm currently building a box for.
It was originally a combo, but I want to put it in a different box, as a head only.
My only concern is if it safe ... I'm not an amp designer or anything like that, I'm just using some scrap wood, is that ok ?
I ordered some tolex and grill cloth online and I don't want it to catch fire from the heat of the amp, should i be worried about that ?

2.I also have a DSL20HR and I noticed that there is no air vent on the top of the amp, like in my trusty JCM900, and I was wondering if this will shorten the life of the amp. should I install air vent by myself to extend the life of this amp ? again my concern is if the tolex can catch fire if I cut it incorrectly ?

Thanks !

 

[Dogs of Doom]

1: just make it to standard head cab spec's & you should be alright. I'd probably be more worried about how strong you do the corners, so that when you pick up the amp, it doesn't just fall apart from the weight..

remember, glue is stronger than nails. Nails wiggle loose. Glue, though, requires a nice straight & even edge on both surfaces to create that good bond.

Probably best to mount the head upside down, so the tubes are aimed upwards. It'll look funky up close, but, 10 ft back, nobody will notice.

2: I wouldn't cut up the DSL stock cab. If you think it's getting too hot, maybe get a small fan & run it behind the amp, to circulate air...

 

[fitz]

Hello everyone !
1. I have a "naked" Marshall TSL 122 that I'm currently building a box for.
It was originally a combo, but I want to put it in a different box, as a head only.
My only concern is if it safe ... I'm not an amp designer or anything like that, I'm just using some scrap wood, is that ok ?
I ordered some tolex and grill cloth online and I don't want it to catch fire from the heat of the amp, should i be worried about that ?

2.I also have a DSL20HR and I noticed that there is no air vent on the top of the amp, like in my trusty JCM900, and I was wondering if this will shorten the life of the amp. should I install air vent by myself to extend the life of this amp ? again my concern is if the tolex can catch fire if I cut it incorrectly ?

Thanks !

I've done a few scrap wood head shells & speaker cabs.
Like DoD said, corner construction is the key to strength of the box.
If you're not familiar with wood panel joinery, I'm sure there are some YT vids for pointers.
Nothing in the head shell is going to catch fire unless the amp catches fire first.

As for the DSL20HR - the back panel has a mesh vent.
If you think it getting too hot, just remove the back panel before cutting up the shell.
I'd assume Marshall would have put a vent in the top if they had any concerns of overheating.

 

[Dogs of Doom]

also... you need a flat metal sheet, between the amp & wood, in the cabinet, to make a faraday cage, otherwise, you might get some interference...

 

[fitz]

also... you need a flat metal sheet, between the amp & wood, in the cabinet, to make a faraday cage, otherwise, you might get some interference...

I use copper shielding tape - peel & stick, easy peasy.

 

[Nuts]

Thank you so much everyone ! I'll check on youtube about corners
And the DSL is not getting too hot at all, I'll just leave it as it is ...

 

[fitz]

Thank you so much everyone ! I'll check on youtube about corners
And the DSL is not getting too hot at all, I'll just leave it as it is ...

Here's a thread on my last head & cabs build.

JCM600 Cab Builds - Done

(Just posted the same stuff on TTR, so If you frequent both, my apologies for the repeat.) Using up the last of these beat up old plywood frames that were used as forms to bend plastic around. Nice 3/4" plywood that I just cut in half and already have a face frame for a Marshall style speaker...

www.marshallforum.com

The box things I cut up were joined with biscuits & glue, and the corners I did were dowels & glue.
No nails or screws, but a $#!+ load of clamps...

Nice tools and good clean straight cut joints make for a strong glue joint.
Larger, heavier cabs like full sized 100w heads and 4x12's are typically done with box joints, but I don't have jigs for that.

 

[Geeze]

I also have a DSL20HR and I noticed that there is no air vent on the top of the amp, like in my trusty JCM900

Marshall typically vented 100 watt amps and not 50's. Anything less didn't get them either. If you run it hard put your hand on top - if it's hot you might want to do something to aid airflow. If not - fuhgeddaboudit!

I built a cherry head shell for a 4xEL84 amp and the top got hot enough I could hear the wood popping when it cooled down. I cut cooling slots on the back of the head faceplate for all of my builds. On that one I added an aluminum heat shield that arcs over the power tubes. Top stays cool.

As mentioned square cuts are key - it took me awhile to get a handle on that.

We like to see build photos so please post your build progress!

Russ

 

[Nuts]

I'm not sure if I can make these cuts accurately, and I don't have enough room on the woods for that , because I already cut them to the length of the amplifier
Can I use corner metal brackets ?

 

[Nuts]

.

 

[fitz]

I'm not sure if I can make these cuts accurately, and I don't have enough room on the woods for that , because I already cut them to the length of the amplifier
Can I use corner metal brackets ?

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What is that wood you're using?
It looks kinda thin for holding an amp of that size & weight.
You might want to invest a few bucks in some decent plywood.
Make a plan before you get out the tools.

I would not recommend metal brackets and screws.
All the load gets focused on the small points at the fasteners.

 

[Nuts]

OK Thank you !

 

[Dogs of Doom]

is it ½"? that will probably work, but, as stated, you need to make sure to have a good glue bond along the joints. The face piece will help hold a lot of it together.

You can not rely on metal L-brackets, or corner caps to hold it together. The box must be sound, all on it's own. (by glue & wood)

 

[Dogs of Doom]

If it was me...

I'd cobble something like that for temporary use, but be saving pennies for a well constructed box, from Sourmash, or similar. That'll probably cost you about $300, but it will look legit. Tell them it's a replacement for a TSL100 head & you need the holes drilled for the emblem. (they won't install the emblem) Buy an emblem & install...

 

[Nuts]

it is almost ½", and it is 2 pieces that I glued together. I can glue another piece to make it thicker.
but I don't have enough room to cut it like this