Hi folks, this JMP 2203 100W head is a bit of a brain teaser. It has these preamp plate voltages without tubes
and with the Variac set to 120VAC:
V1-1 457vdc (schematic says 230v)
V1-6 459v ( " 220v)
V2-1 460v ( " 70v)
V2-6 465v ( " 300v)
V3-1 464v ( " 90v ? - hard to read)
V3-6 463v (schematic says 82v ? " )
These voltages are not reduced by increasing the values of the two dropping resistors in series after the choke.
They were 10K and 10K, and I bumped them up to 51K and 10K respectively.
That changed the above voltages minutely to between 450V to 460vdc.
The rectifier out is 478vdc and B+ is 460vdc.
There are no visible signs of arcing or burning of anything anywhere.
So far, I have tested all PS filter caps, power resistors and preamp plate resistors, and all are within 5% of specified value.
The original problem, whether related or not, was in the power amp. The main fuse (4amp) had blown, so I checked the PT, the OT, the choke, the rectifier diodes,and the bias circuit. They all tested good, and the PT is supplying the correct voltages for heaters, EL34s, and Bias voltage is -58v with -39.9v on pin 5 of the EL34s.
The two middle EL34s were shorted internally (one on each side) so I checked the screen resistors. They were 989ohms and 987 ohms. I replaced them with 1K 5W cement wire-wounds. The other two on the unshorted EL34s were 991ohms and 993ohms each, so I left them in. No signs of arcing or burning ANYWHERE.
It is strange that the HT (1amp) fuse did not blow instead of the 4 amp main fuse.
I hesitate to plug in a set of good tubes as a sacrificial offering just to see how much the voltage drops in the preamp. I doubt it would be anywhere near enough.
I considered the coupling caps in the preamp, but I doubt that they would all go at the same time.
Could the B+ be jumping into the preamp somehow?
What am I missing?
If anyone has an idea of what to do next, I would be grateful.
Blackbird
and with the Variac set to 120VAC:
V1-1 457vdc (schematic says 230v)
V1-6 459v ( " 220v)
V2-1 460v ( " 70v)
V2-6 465v ( " 300v)
V3-1 464v ( " 90v ? - hard to read)
V3-6 463v (schematic says 82v ? " )
These voltages are not reduced by increasing the values of the two dropping resistors in series after the choke.
They were 10K and 10K, and I bumped them up to 51K and 10K respectively.
That changed the above voltages minutely to between 450V to 460vdc.
The rectifier out is 478vdc and B+ is 460vdc.
There are no visible signs of arcing or burning of anything anywhere.
So far, I have tested all PS filter caps, power resistors and preamp plate resistors, and all are within 5% of specified value.
The original problem, whether related or not, was in the power amp. The main fuse (4amp) had blown, so I checked the PT, the OT, the choke, the rectifier diodes,and the bias circuit. They all tested good, and the PT is supplying the correct voltages for heaters, EL34s, and Bias voltage is -58v with -39.9v on pin 5 of the EL34s.
The two middle EL34s were shorted internally (one on each side) so I checked the screen resistors. They were 989ohms and 987 ohms. I replaced them with 1K 5W cement wire-wounds. The other two on the unshorted EL34s were 991ohms and 993ohms each, so I left them in. No signs of arcing or burning ANYWHERE.
It is strange that the HT (1amp) fuse did not blow instead of the 4 amp main fuse.
I hesitate to plug in a set of good tubes as a sacrificial offering just to see how much the voltage drops in the preamp. I doubt it would be anywhere near enough.
I considered the coupling caps in the preamp, but I doubt that they would all go at the same time.
Could the B+ be jumping into the preamp somehow?
What am I missing?
If anyone has an idea of what to do next, I would be grateful.
Blackbird