Admin please delete

[Quinny]

Please delete

 

[StingRay85]

Stunning looking half-stack!

Has the Dagnall T2562 C1998 iron. Fair price around 7K maybe?

 

[Joethebh]

Definitely worth picking it up if you can. Nice set.

 

[TAZIN]

There are some changed components on the amp. These include:
Three 68K resistors.
The de-coupler cap for V1a is 6200pF or 8200pF.
Can't tell what the value is on the de-coupling cap for V1b..
The 470K mixer resistor bypass cap(s).
Possibly one of the Input jacks.
Bass, Middle, Treble, and both Volume pots look like Alpha's...
The 47K NFB resistor.
The 8K2/1w B+ resistor is MIA, and the 10K/1w resistor is a replacement.
The 1K/2w screen resistor are replacements.
Added 4K7 (?) resistor to the Presence pot.
Indicator lamp.
Unfortunately, there's no photo of the PT wiring to affirm that it is a Dagnall T2562.
Don't know what's up with the missing 'LEAD' text on the rear panel....

 

[Quinny]

@TAZIN - thanks as ever for your expertise. That's a fair bit - I wonder if that blurs the lines between routine maintenance/replacement versus restoration/rebuild. I'll try get a pic to 100% confirm (or otherwise) the T2562.

I'm baffled by the LEAD missing too! For some reason I'd a recollection that BASS or LEAD was added at a time via a sticker on the panel, depending on circuit.... alas though, that could have been a dream!

Thanks again.

 

[neikeel]

Tazin summed it up really well.
Odd gungy black paint on mounting screws.
Why write T2662 on the PT bell cover and then no pics of it?
Speaker cab looks nice.

 

[Gene Ballzz]

One of my biggest concerns would be running that 100 watt amp through those speakers, unless you don't crank your amps or have and use a really good attenuator!
Looks Pretty Nice Though,
Gene

 

[Matthews Guitars]

Yes, I've seen some where LEAD or BASS was applied as a waterslide decal and it can come off easily if it gets wet.

I have the back panel to fit up to that, but it's the Bass version. I'm out of stock on that specific Lead version. It's on the list of panels to restock on the next time I make a batch.

Nice amp, it won't take much to restore it to all original component values if you decide to do it.

I'm not clear on why some of those values would have been changed. Replacing 2 of the 4 68K input grid stoppers with 10Ks will give you more input level to the preamp tubes, for more drive, but you run the risk of getting blocking distortion particularly with hot pickups.

issing one power tube, I wonder if it's currently in running condition? If not you should be able to push for a good price.

All original capacitors, that is something that needs consideration. You just don't know how much life those caps may have left in them. They may be good for another 20 years, or ready to detonate the next time the power switch is thrown. They should be carefully checked.

 

[Quinny]

...

 

[Brewster]

Both pieces look in great shape and match lovely. Congrats !

 

[LoudStroud]

Noticing of the mustard cap date codes visible, they’re showing 4th qtr ‘68. Maybe this is an early ‘69 build? Which might also be implied by the lay down T2562 power tranny.

 

[Blacksabbath1987]

Hi all

Eyeing up my next potential old Marshall purchase - slowly making my way back to Plexi days, this time looking at a 1970 Super Lead to bridge the gap from my '73 on the journey. As ever, would appreciate the thoughts of everyone here, your advice has been invaluable in the past. All looks good and clean to me on the whole, aware the wheels and wiring on the cab aren't original (speakers all Pulsonic, Nov/Dec 1970).... but would appreciate any thoughts on originality, mods, any areas for concern etc....

Thanks, Q.

View attachment 153020

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Very nice /// if you buy leave it alone I wouldn’t mod a thing on that amp . You can get all you want with adding pedals in the mix . I’d never mod a beautiful vintage amp like these if any of the original caps went out I placed the same type and value back in it to . It comes down to this we all chase that older Marshall sound here you will have it and then some with newer pedal platforms we have in todays times . good luck with your search these 2 pieces your looking at our killer my friend

 

[TAZIN]

Pic of the PT.

Not sure what inclination I have with this one (LOVE the cab though!). I moved out of the UK last year and when there I'd a fantastic tech locally - the mods don't concern me too much, I think, but I'd definitely like to hand it to a tech to give it the once over before firing it up. Haven't got to the who's who of amp tech'ing yet here in Spain....

View attachment 153078

Yes, it's a T2562

 

[myklomaniac]

Not that bad looking for a 50+ years old amp/cab.

 

[Marshman]

Not much help, but I was thinking 100 watts seemed like a lot to throw at 4 greenbacks, particularly if they're 50+years old. There's a bloke running around the interwebs a decade ago that said he had measured the output of his Super Lead at maximum output and it was making 140 heavily-distorted watts.

Looks great, though.

 

[gkelm]

Looks sweet! Regarding 100w —> greenback quad, I’d be careful myself, although I’ve heard greenbacks are more stout than their rating indicates.

 

[Quinny]

I'd likely stick the '73 50W on the cab if I had it (LOVE that amp!). But, have the PS100 to hand too....

 

[79 2203]

Not much help, but I was thinking 100 watts seemed like a lot to throw at 4 greenbacks, particularly if they're 50+years old. There's a bloke running around the interwebs a decade ago that said he had measured the output of his Super Lead at maximum output and it was making 140 heavily-distorted watts.

Looks great, though.

Yep, my stock except for PT 70 Superbass puts out 140 watts at clipping. Attenuator is a must, and even then you’ve gotta be careful. No way in hell I’d risk my Pulsonics with the amp unattenuated.