Attenuator for Marshall JCM 2000 TSL 601 60 watt combo

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andeg

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Hey folks! I am now a happy owner of the Marshall JCM 2000 TSL 601 combo for home use, and I need an attenuator for it, that is below 300 USD. I looked for Two Notes Torpedo Captor or Bugera PS 1. I would appreciate your suggestions/comments. I'm also not sure how to connect it there - using FX input/output? Thanks!
 

TXOldRedRocker

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I happen to have both of those you mentioned right now. I've owned a Weber, didn't care for. And a Tone King II, which was very good, but I felt I didn't need it and sold it.

I use the Bugera with some 20w Marshall's I have. It's nice that it has a dial for volume. But it's not nearly the same quality as a Two Notes. I have it hooked up to my JCM 2000 DSL 50w. It only has the three-way switch for attenuation (volume level). But I just can't hear it coloring tone. That JCM 2000 DSL sounds so, so good with my 2x12. It's yet another "you get what you pay for" scenario.
 

ITburst

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I keep toying with the idea for my DSL20HR and Origin20. Can’t decide on a brand or if I really do need one. I’d love to try one out but no one rents them. I guess I could buy one out right as my local shop has a 30 day no questions asked return policy.
 

scozz

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I keep toying with the idea for my DSL20HR and Origin20. Can’t decide on a brand or if I really do need one. I’d love to try one out but no one rents them. I guess I could buy one out right as my local shop has a 30 day no questions asked return policy.
To me, the the Dsl20’s best tones are residing in the green channel when cranked, getting that master up around 8 to dimed is the key for some great 800 style tones from this amp.

That’s when this amp comes alive imo!

The Dsl20, unlike most other DSL’s, really benefits from the master being cranked, it has a power tube thing going on at those volumes.

The thing is the only way to do that at home would be with an attenuator.
 

Jethro Rocker

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I had a TSL - it was loud as hell but I could get perfectly acceptable tones out of it at home. Jus sayin...
Agreed. Most of the tone is preamp based in a TSL. Power amp is meant to be fairly clean as I understand it. Volume alone will give it the real magic but I think an attenuator is not of much use with a TSL.
 

ITburst

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I had a TSL - it was loud as hell but I could get perfectly acceptable tones out of it at home. Jus sayin...
That’s why I want to try one and be able to return if I so choose. I feel I actually get a pretty damn good sound without cranking it…but I’ll never know unless I try an attenuator.

That being said, I understand that moving air is a part of it as well. This is why I’m hesitant.
 

Jethro Rocker

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That’s why I want to try one and be able to return if I so choose. I feel I actually get a pretty damn good sound without cranking it…but I’ll never know unless I try an attenuator.

That being said, I understand that moving air is a part of it as well. This is why I’m hesitant.
See what your local LnM has. Can always try n return.
 

speyfly

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Don't go cheap on a attenuator, you put a lot of money (at least I do) chasing tone, good amps and guitars aren't cheap. I've used both the cheap passive attenuators and they did a good job but I didn't realize what I was missing until I spent the money and got a good reactive attenuator.

It will cost you some money but it will put a smile on your face!

 

marshallmellowed

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That’s why I want to try one and be able to return if I so choose. I feel I actually get a pretty damn good sound without cranking it…but I’ll never know unless I try an attenuator.

That being said, I understand that moving air is a part of it as well. This is why I’m hesitant.
I personally don't think any difference would be worth the cost of a good attenuator. As Jethro Rocker stated, amps like the TSL, DSL, JVM, and most all master volume Marshalls are designed to get their drive from the preamp. I've cranked several of my master volume Marshalls through attenuators, and the results were just "meh". Just my experience, of course. If one is playing a Marshall at super low volumes, they may gain a little from it, I don't play at conversation volumes. IMO, if the sound of power tube saturation is what one is really chasing, they'd have better luck with a non-master volume amp and attenuator (or attenuator / re-amper).
 
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JohnH

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If you have some workshop skills, and would like to try building a good reactive attenuator for a very small amount of $, try our M2 design on the Workshop forum.

A TSL is a fairly loud amp, and a good attenuator will help lift it out of first gear and get it working in the range where it gives its best tones. If you can manage the build, (with plenty of examples and advice available), then its quite a small investment of cash and time, and hopefully a fun project. You'll get a much better unit than you can buy, even at several times the cost.


It's a huge thread, but everything needed is in the first post which I keep updated, with links to a handful of other key posts.
 
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andeg

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The amp has other options built in for quieter playing even silent recording
Thanks for the hint, but can you elaborate on this, please? I would greatly appreciate your advice. I bought my amp on reverb; the only manual I found is quite short - not sure it is the complete one.
 

scozz

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Agreed. Most of the tone is preamp based in a TSL. Power amp is meant to be fairly clean as I understand it. Volume alone will give it the real magic but I think an attenuator is not of much use with a TSL.
This ^

I agree with Jethro here.

As far as I know a Marshall TSL power section doesn’t get overdriven like vintage Marshalls, the amps saturation comes from the preamp section much like most DSL’s.
 

marshallmellowed

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Thanks for the hint, but can you elaborate on this, please? I would greatly appreciate your advice. I bought my amp on reverb; the only manual I found is quite short - not sure it is the complete one.
No offense here, but if a master volume amp is too loud for you to play by merely turning down the master volume, or it doesn't sound good at the volume you need to play at, you probably bought the wrong amp. Before sinking money into attenuators to try and make the amp work for you, I'd look at swapping it for an amp that works for you without the need to attenuate. Another option is to just run the amp fairly clean and use a pedal to get what you're needing at a usable volume.
 
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Jethro Rocker

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No offense here, but if a master volume amp is too loud for you to play by merely turning down the master volume, or it doesn't sound good at the volume you need to play at, you probably bought the wrong amp. Before sinking money into attenuators to try and make the amp work for you, I'd look at swapping it for an amp that works for you without the need to attenuate. Another option is to just run the amp fairly clean and use a pedal to get what you're needing at a usable volume.
They actually sound pretty good at lower volumes. To turn it up and choke it with an attenuator isn't going to make it sound any better.
I agree
 

ITburst

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And I think I agree. I really feel i have great sound at lower volumes in both my DSL20HR and Origin 20. And I am sceptical that an attenuator would do anything for me. But I would love to try one.
 

lesexypaul82

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Send me a way i can send you a PDF file and ill send the manual to you.

The following is copied straight from the manual.


V.P.R. - Virtual Power Reduction
When this switch is depressed, the power amp circuit is modified
allowing it to emulate a lower powered amp, approximately 25 watts.
This is done between the phase splitter (inverter) valve and the output
valves. In this way, as compared to other methods of power reduction,
all four output valves remain running and connected in pentode
operation, thereby all valves wear evenly and maintain the full toneful
dynamics of that type of connection.

Output Mute
By the nature of the ‘V.P.R.’ circuit, we can now turn off the signal to
the output valves. As the speaker emulating DI output is connected to
the same place, this enables the TSL to be DI’d for silent recording, yet
maintain the compression and harmonics of a push-pull valve stage.
 
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