Creamback 65 in DSL40CR fizzy?

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tmingle

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I always thought the Creamback 65 was the go to speaker for the DSL40 amps.
It's fizzy as all hell. Did I get the wrong Creamback?
 

Maggot Brain

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I always thought the Creamback 65 was the go to speaker for the DSL40 amps.
It's fizzy as all hell. Did I get the wrong Creamback?
I had the G12M65 Creamback and really dug it, found it super dark but a great speaker none the less. Granted I don't ever use the Red channel as everything sounds fizzy to my ears on that channel.

I put a 12AU7 in V2 experimenting and found it removed much of the fizz and compression on the Red channel. I removed it as it also affects the Green channel but plan to get one of those half and half tubes (half 12ax7, half 12au7)
 

Robert Hughes

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I always thought the Creamback 65 was the go to speaker for the DSL40 amps.
It's fizzy as all hell. Did I get the wrong Creamback?
Every speaker I tried in the DLS40 sounded fizzy unless the master was at least 6-7 or higher. My favorite speaker ended up being the vintage 30, the stock speaker in the DSL40CR. Or maybe try the bright cap clipping trick. I never did that because I ran mine through an attenuator for power amp crunch goodness.
 

CVS

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Hello,
I use the Creamback G12H75 even for my DSL20H - sounds good, I think treble, mid and bass are all neutral nothing over-pronounced i.m.o. (heard that de G12M65 is more Mid-focused (?) like a Vintage 30 ...)
But isn't the stock speaker normal a V-type in stead of a V30 ? I read good reviews of that V-type seems better than the seventy/eighty ...
 

Karl Brake

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Open-back vs. closed back makes a huge difference, especially in Marshall amps. Speakers that are great with Marshalls in closed-back (V30s for example) are crap in a semi-open back such as in a combo. I tried a V30 in my JVM combo, and it was fizzy and nasty...the stock T-150 was wayyyyy better in the partial open back. Don't know if this is the same with Creams...
 

scozz

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Every speaker I tried in the DLS40 sounded fizzy unless the master was at least 6-7 or higher. My favorite speaker ended up being the vintage 30, the stock speaker in the DSL40CR. Or maybe try the bright cap clipping trick. I never did that because I ran mine through an attenuator for POWER AMP CRUNCH GOODNESS.
Hmm interesting, I was under the impression that the Dsl40cr is not known as having power amp overdrive. Unlike some other DSL’s, they get their overdriven tones from the preamp exclusively, or so I thought.
 

Moony

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I tried a V30 in my JVM combo, and it was fizzy and nasty...the stock T-150 was wayyyyy better

Do you mean the JVM215C?

I've tried a lot of different speakers in that one.
The best for me is the WGS ET65H which is basically a predecessor of the ET-90 that WGS has built for Hook amps and Two Rock.
It's not exactly the same as the ET-90, but I bet an ET-90 would work very well too.
It's not as "organic" and warm sounding as the ET-65 and you get a firmer and tighter low end.
Huge sound out of the small combo. Give it a try!
 

SkyMonkey

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I tried a V30 in my JVM combo, and it was fizzy and nasty...the stock T-150 was wayyyyy better in the partial open back.
The stock speaker in a JVM215C is a G12B-150.
That speaker is tuned more to baritone frequencies.
That could be an important factor in your experience.

V30
Frequency Range - 70-5000Hz
Resonance Frequency, Fs - 75 Hz
Voice Coil Diameter - 1 3/4 "

G12B-150
Frequency Range - 60-4000Hz
Resonance Frequency, Fs - 77 Hz
Voice Coil Diameter - 2 "
 

Gene Ballzz

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Hmm interesting, I was under the impression that the Dsl40cr is not known as having power amp overdrive. Unlike some other DSL’s, they get their overdriven tones from the preamp exclusively, or so I thought.


The DSL40CR is certainly "capable" of producing power amp overdrive, but I've found it really necessary or even pleasing for me. The amp is fairly adept at achieving a "Full Amp" sound, all in the preamp. I would mention that I've found the amp to sound a bit thin and even"fizzy" if the channel volumes are set too low.
Just My $.02,
Gene
 

tmingle

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When I swap speakers(or any other change for that matter), my initial reaction is "WOW what an improvement". I then allow a month or so for the honeymoon to where thin & then I re-evaluate. The M65 was an immediate "Where did my mids go?). It seems really scooped to me. I swapped it out for a Vet 30 for now. If anyone is interested in an almost brand new Creamback 65 for a great price or trade, message me.
 

ampeq

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As Moony said, the WGS ET65 is a great speaker. It works great in 1-12” cabs and combo’s. Another speaker they make that works really well, if you like the V30, is the Retro30. Similar but no mid spike and all around better tone. The ET90 will take a lot of power but I think the ET65 sounds better. If you do want to try a ET90 I have a brand new one I”ll sell for $65 plus shipping.
 

Moony

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As Moony said, the WGS ET65 is a great speaker.

I've got the regular ET-65 too and also tried it in the JVM215C combo, sounds nice! Nothing wrong with it! :)

Have you guys seen that WGS has a new speaker in the British range?

The WGS DW-75:


 

FracStrat

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Every speaker I tried in the DLS40 sounded fizzy unless the master was at least 6-7 or higher. My favorite speaker ended up being the vintage 30, the stock speaker in the DSL40CR. Or maybe try the bright cap clipping trick. I never did that because I ran mine through an attenuator for power amp crunch goodness.
No Bright Cap on the CR Red Channels ..
C74 spot is unpopulated from the factory
 

FracStrat

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I installed one in mine. 330pf. I even noticed the fizz with my Helix into the FX loop. Maybe my hearing is shot!
Pics or it didn’t Happen at C74 in a 40CR …… Why would you put a Treble Bleed Cap in an Amp that Already Has Too Much Fizz for you ??
If your referring back to the C19 Cap in the 40C …… Sweet spot is about 100-120pF
 
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