Custom 2 x 12 Cabinet Build Project

[lespaulboy]

Looks like Hillcountry has addressed most of your questions. You could use screws if you like (I have made some cabs in the past with screws ) but I would definately use them in conjunction with glue. I decided to do something different with glue and dowels, as I wanted to put a larger radius corner bead (1/2") this time and it didn't want to have to counter sink the screws to avoid having the router bit hit the heads (dowels router quite nicely). I will also be gluing in 1" x 1" triangular strips of wood on the side corners for added strength (probably overkill, but it's easy to do).

There was no particular reasoning behind the positioning of the speaker height other than what Marshall does on their 1936 CAB as well as other similar manufacturers cabs. Just figured it would look good asthetically. You can definately play with acoustic filler materials to see what works for you.. all personal preference.

I just got my handles and corners from TCH (I'll post up some pics) but my Tolex, Grill Cloth and Piping are still on back order from Parts is Parts... something about a change in distributors... That's OK.. I've been spending time rebuilding my workstation area in my music studio. It's small but efficient !

 

[JohnH]

Your cab is looking great - nice work.

For those with few tools, you can make a crude but very strong joint just by butting one panel to another, and put a 1x1 or 2x1 inside each corner, and glue/screw that to the ply. The glue is ultimately stronger, but the screws tighten and reinforce the joint. Also, this way, there are no screws actually at the corner, so they can be rounded off.

 

[thrawn86]

That's what I did on my head. You can see the hardwood in the bottom inside corners. I Gorilla glued it and used 1" screws.

 

[HOT TUBES 70]

Very nice work my man !!

 

[MM54]

For those pondering the joints that lack the jigs to make fancy joints:

The ML100 headbox, made of 1/2" birch ply, has 45'ed corners glued together, with 3/4" square blocks on the inside of each corner (the chassis has clearance on either side to spare, even with these blocks). Before I finished sanding and tolex, I tested the joints, it was very strong. I'd have no issue using the same method on the corners of a speaker cab,although I'd probably be using 3/4" ply.

 

[HOT TUBES 70]

Ok...

So after doing a bunch of research, talking to a few folks here on the board and playing through a few cabs, I decided to build my own custom 2 x 12 cabinet. I've actually built a number of cabs in the past (small 2 x 12 extension cab for my combo, bass cabs, PA cabs), so figured I would document my progress and share it with the folks here on the Marshall forum.

The design is simple... it's based on a Marshall 1936 / Stone Age 2 x 12. It's all made from 13 ply Baltic Birch with Poplar trim pieces. The dimensions are 23 1/2" tall, 29 1/4 wide and 13" deep.

At present I have about 95% of the woodworking / assembly complete. I have my handles, corners and feet ordered from TCH and my Tolex, Grill cloth piping and jack plate ordered from Parts is Parts.

So far the project is going extremely well and can't wait to get it completed

Decided to drill, dowell and glue the top, bottom and sides together. Ideally I would have liked to have done finger joints, but didn't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on a good jig. I picked up Wolfcraft Dowel jig for $15.00 that worked out amazing. The joints are extremely solid.

Getting the two pieces ready for glueing... Titebond III

Pieces clamped together and drying.

Front view of the completed shell with 1/2" radius bead routed on all edges

Backside view. Notice the poplar trim pieces on the front that are angled so the the speaker baffle will aim slightly upwards when screwed into place.

Close up of routed edge. Notice the ends of the dowels that are routed too... no screws.

Front speaker baffle sitting in place. Holes were cut with a router and a circle jig.

Decided to route a small recessed pocket for the "T" nuts to keep things nice and flush for installing the grill cloth. Probably not necessary, but I really like paying attention to detail.


That's the progress I have made to date... Since my Tolex and Grill cloth are on back order from Parts is Parts, it will likely be a couple weeks until I can get at this again.. I'll post up more pics and progress reports as I go.

Dude , you do some serious nice work ! its perfect !!
Damn it i want one ..........

 

[watchtheskies]

wow lespaulboy, top notch job you have done there,
so solid, that's going to resonate nicely

 

[lespaulboy]

Dude , you do some serious nice work ! its perfect !!
Damn it i want one ..........

I would love to be able to produce some cabs for sale... but would loose my shirt on the amount of time it takes me to make just one

I'm starting to get a bit ansi to get this completed, but everything I need to continue is still on backorder with no eta

 

[MartyStrat54]

I have tried on and off for many years to make some money off of making cabs. It is very hard to do. The big guys have CNC and they make four or five different guitar cabs. Very hard to compete with them.

 

[HOT TUBES 70]

I would love to be able to produce some cabs for sale... but would loose my shirt on the amount of time it takes me to make just one

I'm starting to get a bit ansi to get this completed, but everything I need to continue is still on backorder with no eta

How do you feel its going to sound when its finished , it looks like an
oversized 212 , am i right ??

And what speaker again ...? sorry

 

[HOT TUBES 70]

I would love to be able to produce some cabs for sale... but would loose my shirt on the amount of time it takes me to make just one

I'm starting to get a bit ansi to get this completed, but everything I need to continue is still on backorder with no eta

I know how you feel , its getting harder to find good quality parts in and around Saskatoon , i went looking for a simple 3PDT foot switch , NO DICE !!
Fuck whats up with that , we have Canada's only Synchrotron , but no one can stock a 12$ switch !!!!

Anyway , i sure like what i see with your cab project , super nice work !!

 

[lespaulboy]

How do you feel its going to sound when its finished , it looks like an
oversized 212 , am i right ??

And what speaker again ...? sorry

The dimensions are 23 1/2" tall, 29 1/4 wide and 13" deep. So it's essentially the same dimensions as a Marshall 1936 but 1" deeper. I'm initially going to throw in a pair of Celestion G12T's because that's what I have (that's what I've been playing for years) but plan on picking up a pair of Vintage 30's and see what I like the best !

 

[HOT TUBES 70]

The dimensions are 23 1/2" tall, 29 1/4 wide and 13" deep. So it's essentially the same dimensions as a Marshall 1936 but 1" deeper. I'm initially going to throw in a pair of Celestion G12T's because that's what I have (that's what I've been playing for years) but plan on picking up a pair of Vintage 30's and see what I like the best !

It should do the trick !!
I can't wait to see the finished product ......you maybe building another

 

[Tim.]

updates?

 

[lespaulboy]

I've got my Marshall OEM Tolex, Piping and Speaker Grill cloth on order with Parts is Parts, but they apparently have it on back order and can't get an ETA for delivery. Something about a new supplier. Anyone know where else to source these OEM parts?

I'm pretty patient, but this has gone on for about three months.

At this point I'm about as far as I can go on this project until I get these parts. I'll be sure to post up as soon as things get back on track. I did however get my handles, feet and cab corners form TCH.

 

[shredless]

I've got my Marshall OEM Tolex, Piping and Speaker Grill cloth on order with Parts is Parts, but they apparently have it on back order and can't get an ETA for delivery. Something about a new supplier. Anyone know where else to source these OEM parts?

I'm pretty patient, but this has gone on for about three months.

At this point I'm about as far as I can go on this project until I get these parts. I'll be sure to post up as soon as things get back on track. I did however get my handles, feet and cab corners form TCH.

I went through that, but sneaked my parts right before the runout...luckily I had enough grillecloth left from another job, that was unavailable

I did get hosed on rivets, but found a 100 pack elsewhere

It seems that Marshall and Korg have separated, leaving Marshall without a supplier for parts in the US...vendors dont know when they will come around

 

[Tim.]

went back and read your build again.
glad i did because i picked up on the baffle spacer and applied it to my build. this is the only place where i have seen it mentioned.

this thread is a great resource and i hope my next cab turns out as nice as yours is. i am still trying to figure out why i went so deep on mine. i guess if it sounds really bad i can table saw a inch or so off the back. maybe it will be great, can't wait to find out...

 

[lespaulboy]

Thanks Tim.. The thing about threads like this one and yours is that there are lots of great ideas and tips shrared by everyone. We need to thank "Hillcountry" for the "picture frame" border to get the grill cloth off the surface of the baffle board. I thought about it prior to his posting, but after he shared his personal experience, I knew it was the right thing to do. As well if you examine a 1936 cabinet, Marshall does the same. I have my "frame pieces" cut out (they are 1/4 inch thick poplar and about 1 1/2 inch wide). I kinda feel bad that I haven't posted much lately, but I'm pretty much stuck on waiting for the parts that I have on order (I'm kinda particular that way).

Be sure to post up or PM folks if you're looking for suggestions or ideas.

I've glued lots of coverings to cabs in the past, but haven't used Tolex. I've always used solvent based contact cement, but will experiment with water based for the Tolex. Most people who have tried solvent based report that is softens the material a bit and can bubble when you apply it. I'll try a couple different glues with scrap pieces before I commit.

 

[Tim.]

I read that the stretchier solvent / tolex method can be helpful for corners and such. I feel pretty confident with putting it on. Let's see how quickly I am thwarted! The only thing that I could find at lowes was DAP in red or green cans. At least it was suggested by many others.

 

[stampdmatt]

Could someone please give me the approximate dimensions for the speaker layout (distance apart, distance from top and bottom, etc. )on a 1936 cab baffle. I can't seem to find that information anywhere. If there are any plans for a 2x12 cab floating around out there I would appreciate those as well. Thanks!