HAZE 40 Problem
- Thread starter FLTWRENCH
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I bought the Haze 40 back in Sept. I just happen to be at my local GC when it was comming off the truck. I was the first to take it out of the box when I got home with it and so far no problems. I use it about 4-5 hours a day. This little amp seems to get better the more I play it. I just wish it had more gain. If there is ever to be an upgrade kit or mod availble by someone, this amp may earn a legacey of it's own.
For the first time today I experienced the popping problem with my Haze 40 when switching channels. It was at the end of a very long practice (4 hours) and the amp was hot. That makes sense, as I've heard the problem was due to leaky caps and cap leakage is increased by heat. Actually it wasn't too bad a problem as you couldn't really hear the popping when the music was going.
My band mates went nuts over the sound of this amp, more than any other amp I've used in 6 years with these guys. They were especially impressed with the clean sound and the effects, the cleans of the Haze is something special indeed. The amp sounds much bigger than it is.
Concerning the gain, probably the best solution to get more is to just add a clean boost or overdrive in front of the amp. The Haze 40 is extremely sensitive to microphonic tubes, even high quality NOS tubes like smooth plate Telefunkens do not stand up in this beast. Adding gain inside the amp with a tube stage will only make the problem worse, but boosting the gain outside the amp will not risk more microphonic issues.
My band mates went nuts over the sound of this amp, more than any other amp I've used in 6 years with these guys. They were especially impressed with the clean sound and the effects, the cleans of the Haze is something special indeed. The amp sounds much bigger than it is.
Concerning the gain, probably the best solution to get more is to just add a clean boost or overdrive in front of the amp. The Haze 40 is extremely sensitive to microphonic tubes, even high quality NOS tubes like smooth plate Telefunkens do not stand up in this beast. Adding gain inside the amp with a tube stage will only make the problem worse, but boosting the gain outside the amp will not risk more microphonic issues.
I got all panicked about this channel switching issue, but not a sound out of mine, so fingers crossed. The only other issue I can report is the effects button on the footswitch needs a fair stomp to make it operate sometimes.
But I agree, it just keeps sounding better the more work I give it. I find theres plenty enough gain with the boost button engaged for what I play (70's 80's & blues blues blues). This is definately NOT a metal amp though
racerevlon
New Member
I've noticed that, with most older Marshall tube amps, this amp sounds better the warmer the tubes get. I, unfortunately, also have the popping and fizzing problem, and the truth is that the "Normal" channel cranked up with the "boost" and "bright" switches engaged sound WAY better than anything on the Overdrive channel. I may look at getting that kit or just open mine up and upgrade all the capacitors and resistors myself.
I just got a Haze a few days ago, my first tube amp, from a music store thru ebay. I think I was sold a floor model (listed as new--but I did pay $600 instead of $700+), because it was dusty, had a tag string still on the handle, and the plastic vent grate in the top looks as if it is warped from the heat of the tubes (it bows upward from the unit). Anyone had that happen?
I also get the channel-popping, especially when the reverb is engaged, but I'm not a big fan of the reverb, and if I want it I'll get a quality pedal. And it doesn't do it all the time, so maybe I could live with it.
What bugs me about this amp, is that with certain notes, and cutting in at relatively low volumes (maybe a quarter of the way up) there is some rattle and buzz. Some of it is straight buzzing, as if something is vibrating, and some of it is chimey-sounding. I wouldn't know, but could it be the "microphonic" preamp tubes I've been reading about on this forum and elsewhere? I tightened the outer screws but that didn't help. Since I'm probably going to return the unit, I hesitate to remove the back panel and screw with anything.
I love the sound of this amp, and it's really the perfect choice for me if I could get one that doesn't have issues. I might be able to get the seller to send me replacement tubes, but I don't know the first thing about buying tubes, much less for this particular unit, and of course I would want to get higher-quality tubes to deal with the "microphony" problem. Anyone have any suggestions as to great replacement tubes for this amp? Or is the general consensus that this series of combos is just a piece of third world country, sweatshop-produced refried crap?
I also get the channel-popping, especially when the reverb is engaged, but I'm not a big fan of the reverb, and if I want it I'll get a quality pedal. And it doesn't do it all the time, so maybe I could live with it.
What bugs me about this amp, is that with certain notes, and cutting in at relatively low volumes (maybe a quarter of the way up) there is some rattle and buzz. Some of it is straight buzzing, as if something is vibrating, and some of it is chimey-sounding. I wouldn't know, but could it be the "microphonic" preamp tubes I've been reading about on this forum and elsewhere? I tightened the outer screws but that didn't help. Since I'm probably going to return the unit, I hesitate to remove the back panel and screw with anything.
I love the sound of this amp, and it's really the perfect choice for me if I could get one that doesn't have issues. I might be able to get the seller to send me replacement tubes, but I don't know the first thing about buying tubes, much less for this particular unit, and of course I would want to get higher-quality tubes to deal with the "microphony" problem. Anyone have any suggestions as to great replacement tubes for this amp? Or is the general consensus that this series of combos is just a piece of third world country, sweatshop-produced refried crap?
jamesm
Active Member
Hi FMTDee,
It sounds to me like you may have a microphonic valve. Normally if you have a valve that is microphonic, you can hear a noise if you knock the cabinet while it is switched on and the volume turned up a bit.
The reason why microphonic valves have been mentioned on this amp is due to the relatively high power of the amp in a relatively small box with relatively high gain, with the speaker relatively close to the valves. It does happen that sometimes a valve gets through our tests and, with the high number of these combos that have sold, we get to hear about it!
The valves are JJ Tesla, so pretty high quality in the first place.
It is possible that one of the preamp valves needs to be seated in its base as it might have got loose.
It also is possible that swapping the valves V2 and V3 will also reduce, if not eliminate the problem, but as this requires removing the back of the amp, I would suggest that you take it to a service engineer.
JamesM
It sounds to me like you may have a microphonic valve. Normally if you have a valve that is microphonic, you can hear a noise if you knock the cabinet while it is switched on and the volume turned up a bit.
The reason why microphonic valves have been mentioned on this amp is due to the relatively high power of the amp in a relatively small box with relatively high gain, with the speaker relatively close to the valves. It does happen that sometimes a valve gets through our tests and, with the high number of these combos that have sold, we get to hear about it!
The valves are JJ Tesla, so pretty high quality in the first place.
It is possible that one of the preamp valves needs to be seated in its base as it might have got loose.
It also is possible that swapping the valves V2 and V3 will also reduce, if not eliminate the problem, but as this requires removing the back of the amp, I would suggest that you take it to a service engineer.
JamesM
Buffalo Bob
New Member
I just ordered the Haze 40 from Sweetwater yesterday. This thing appears to be exactly what I've needed. I do have an overdrive and distortion pedal in case the sound needs a tweak. I've been watching the forums with interest since the Haze first came out, waiting and wondering if Marshall will address the problems. The Sweetwater Rep said she spoke with her contacts at Marshall and told me the amps they have in stock now supposedly have all the fixes installed. I hope that is the case. I realize they probably told me what I wanted to hear, but it does sound like there are fixes, and I gotta believe Marshall has reacted to the problems. Ever since I saw the Haze 40 demo, I had to have one. To my credit, I did wait over a year for the smoke to clear (literally). This forum was very helpful. Lotsa facts, and a few opinions, and I thank you all for them. Now I can't wait to rattle some windows.
the_best_of_fools
New Member
JohnH
Well-Known Member
Can anyone identify the earliest date, per the amp serial number, afterwhich the fixes are all installed? The first four digits are the year, the next two are the week.
This would be useful to know, so others can check for old stock before purchase.
John
This would be useful to know, so others can check for old stock before purchase.
John
ironlung40
Active Member
I'm glad I have no interest in this amp. My 2203, 6100, and 2466, are all the Marshall I need.
no doubt all perfect models, that never ever had a warranty claim from anywhere in the world
I haven't heard of such a list, hopefully someone else here can find one. However if you can remove the back panel, you can tell if the mods are installed or not by looking at the PCB.
If the CATS-00163 mod is installed, the following resistors will be the following values:
R90: 1M
R100: 220K
R101: 1M
Note that these are different from the Haze issue 2 schematic values.
alvinratsim
Active Member
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Is haze made in china?
No, in India.
FWIW the construction quality is absolutely top notch in mine, as good as anything I've seen from the UK. The problems with the Haze are due to component quality and design decisions, and are not due to them being built in India. One could argue the problems with the Marshall Class 5 rattles are as bad as the Haze channel switching issue, and the Class 5 is made in the UK.
Please don't take this to mean that the UK construction is better than India or China, or vice versa. What is does mean is that the responsibility for Marshall amp quality resides solely with the UK corporate departments (R+D and QC), and poor amps are not automatically due to them being made elsewhere.
I suspect that the reason we see poor quality product at times from China and India is because there were corners cut with those lower priced amps to get the costs down. Perhaps another reason (maybe the Haze fits here) is that India made and shipped a pile of the amps at once before the design fixes were found and implemented. If the amps were made in the UK, they might have been able to get the fixes in manufacturing quicker than they did.
That's great info... I gotta ask, how did you come to know this?
Also thanks to JohnH for the info about the S#. Pretty clear first four digits were for the year, but didn't know that about the second two digits. Hopefully somebody somewhere knows when the fixes went in....
Last edited:
This info is from the Marshall repair document.
javier pintos
Active Member
mmmm i was thinking on changing my avt50 combo for a haze 40 since most of our gigs are happening at small bars and my 4x12 dsl100 is way too big for this small bar stages, but it seems i´m better of with a not all tube amp that presents no failures than an all tube amp with failures, maybe going for a dsl 401 will be the route to follow or just wait fo the haze to get all fixed out, or amybe go for a non marshall combo ????
After my two crappy experiences getting old, used or display stock from a music store who couldn't move their product, I decided to go the Sweetwater route also, so I was glad to see your post. Being a large company as opposed to a tiny independent store, it would make sense that they would have newer stock issued after the fixes. I haven't placed the order yet (waiting on refund from last ebay seller), but the rep offered me the choice of sending it factory sealed or opening it up and testing for problems first. They also offered me a great deal to ship it 3-day air through FedEx (about whom they've gotten few complaints, compared to when they used UPS who shipped both of my previous amps) so it won't get thrown truck-to-truck across the country. MAYBE third time will be a charm.
So, Buffalo Bob, I hope you will PLEASE post the results after you give it a thorough test drive. I'm dying to know what you think of this ostensibly NEW Haze 40 when you get it. I hope it's all the amp for you it really seems it COULD be. Keep us updated! I think this amp really has the potential to be great, especially for those of us its size, price-range, and tube tone are particularly suited for.
Thanks!!
ok, an update... it has been nearly a year since i bought my haze and it finally gave up the ghost. i had the popping problems, the microphonic tubes, you name it but i finally got it fixed (i use it every weekend so, i didn't have time to take it to the shop)! i replaced tubes (electro-harmonix don't laugh, they are amazing) the cap's, etc. and it honestly sounds better than the day i i first tried it out. this is a great little amp and with all of the trashing it has received i wouldn't give it up. if you're still stuck with one of the bad ones, get it repaired... you won't regret it!
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