Instrument cable verses speaker cable

[wallythacker]

I got a couple of planet waves cables with heads and or half stacks that I bought. One planet wave is 5' long and was used as a patch cable from a TSL100 head to a 1960a. Would damage occur if the cable was actually an instrument cable instead?

The other planet wave is 2' so I'm sure it's a patch cable.

I got some Fender cables and one is about 9' and the other is about 18.5'. How do I tell if these cables are instrument or speaker cables without cutting into them?

 

[ibmorjamn]

Do not use the instrument cable on the cabinet = not good.

 

[hazmat7719]

Look at the wire gauge that is printed on the jacket. If it is not printed, unscrew the shell of the connector to look at the wire size. If both conductors are the same size, it is speaker wire. If one conductor is braided/twisted around a smaller wire, it is instrument. If you are not sure, post a picture from inside of the connector.

 

[Joshabr1]

Yea. You can not use guitar cable

 

[wallythacker]

I'll have to cut some white covering plastic back on the Fender cables to get at the plug. At least I can get at the plug. Those cables I can figure out thanks to you guys here.

The planet wave 5' is a molded plug. I feel I'll make a right mess if I try to cut back the plastic enough to see the connectors and cables. See, I think it's an instrument cable because it has that rubber band strain relief thing that comes on planet waves instrument cables.

What if I labelled my mystery 5' planet wave cable "mystery cable" and always used it as a cable from my guitar to pedalboard? Nothing could get damaged in that fashion, right? That or just cut it in two and drop it into the trash.

 

[Marshallhead]

Don't start cutting your cables to check what they are. Just plug them in between guitar and amp. A speaker cable will hum like crazy, a guitar or patch cable won't.

 

[Speeddemon]

Don't start cutting your cables to check what they are. Just plug them in between guitar and amp. A speaker cable will hum like crazy, a guitar or patch cable won't.

Experienced this myself first hand in the past; needed an extra patch cable quick, grabbed a speaker cable and it was hum city.

 

[SirArcsAlot]

Don't start cutting your cables to check what they are. Just plug them in between guitar and amp. A speaker cable will hum like crazy, a guitar or patch cable won't.

Also a good way to test your speaker cables in a pinch, so you don't blow anything up!

 

[Rahlstin]

So what is the technical reason to not use a shielded cable.

 

[Micky]

Generally an instrument cable is not large enough to carry the current necessary to drive a speaker. The gauge is not large enough...

 

[EndGame00]

I've used an instrument cable before and I DO NOT recommend using it to drive your speaker... I'm lucky I didn't blow up the amp.

 

[mickeydg5]

For musical applications speaker cable jackets are usually labeled with ratings like "16 AWG SPEAKER" OR "2 / 16 AWG".

If it is not labeled then assume it is signal or instrument cable.

If the inside of the plug is accessible open it and look for large core wire to indicate speaker cable.

Plus everything everyone else is stating.

 

[Masteresgt]

So what is the technical reason to not use a shielded cable.

Many reasons, but the two mains reasons:

1- Wire gage: the instruments cable have tiny wire gage that will not be able to carry the current needed for power to speaker. Result is that wire will overheat and burn/fire/blow (no more wire between amp - speaker will result of output transformer blow).
2- Cable capacitance: the instruments cable have really higher capacitance than speaker cable that will cause the output transformer to work harder and overheat and will eventually blow.

 

[Gene Ballzz]

Consider - In a "Well Shielded" cable the shield can end up being equivalent to as heavy of a gauge as a #10 or #12 wire whereas the center conductor can be as small as #22 to #32 wire. Your amp wants to see a minimum of #18 - #16 wire and the same size on both the positive and negative, remembering that speaker signal is AC (Alternating Current) at fairly high levels. The small center conductor can overheat causing, at the very least, added resistance on one side of that AC/push pull and at the worst that same center conductor (if small enough with a large enough amp) can "open" up like a fuse leaving your amp with no load! VERY BAD! Not to mention the amp is not operating properly as the positive pulse and the negative pulse are driving into different impedances of wire, etc, etc, etc! Personally, I make all my own speaker cables using plain #16, white, brown or yellow lamp cord (AKA zip wire) with good Switchcraft plugs that are internally insulated with hot glue and double shrink wrapped. By their appearance it is virtually impossible to confuse one with a shielded signal cable and they are generally indestructible! And the wire is CHEAP as I just buy a cheap, 50 foot, non-grounded extension cord and cut lengths as needed. FWIW, the cable in the pic below is well over 15 years old. Note that the label is my initials, but can be anything you like. For any of you folks who are not solder savvy or don't have the equipment, I'll custom build speaker cables (to your specs) for you for about $12 each plus shipping. You certainly won't find them of this quality, gauge & personalized at GC! I can also do #14 gauge for a coupl bucks more. Wire color is your choice of what is currently available. Yellow has become difficult to find, but at this time of year, typical selection is white, brown and green and maybe orange or red! Not to mention, most "guitar store" speaker cables are usually "round" jacketed (easily confused with signal cables) and often only #18 gauge! This is not intended to be a "FOR SALE" post, but simply an offer to help fellow forum members get some of the best speaker cables for their use/safety.



Just Sayin'
Gene

 

[Gene Ballzz]

Oh Yeah,
If anyone wants any cables please contact me via PM and I'll do my best to help you out!
Gene

 

[DaDoc]

Look closely at the cables, it should say on them if it's for an instrument or a speaker. Sometimes you have to look really closely in good light to see the ratings, examine the full length of your cable and use a magnifying glass if you need to, it's usually in white writing and sort of stamped in the rubber down the side of the cable. In older cables the white is often worn off or faded, but the stamped letters should still be there.

I wouldn't go cutting on my plugs if I were you, I personally avoid cable plugs that don't screw apart. George L's and Monster cable are two great high-grade cables. George L's are pricey, but worth every penny. I couldn't believe the difference I got in tone when I made the switch! I use a 5' Monster speaker cable between my Marshall head and cab, I think I paid around $15 bucks for it 4-5 years ago, and it's still going strong!

Planet waves also makes very good cable, but whatever you decide to go with, keep in mind good cable can make a bigger difference in tone than any expensive gadget or stompbox one can buy!

 

[Gene Ballzz]

Look closely at the cables, it should say on them if it's for an instrument or a speaker. Sometimes you have to look really closely in good light to see the ratings, examine the full length of your cable and use a magnifying glass if you need to, it's usually in white writing and sort of stamped in the rubber down the side of the cable. In older cables the white is often worn off or faded, but the stamped letters should still be there.

You reinforce my point for making/using zip wire quite emphatically! Your comments help me visualize some poor guy getting ready to set up his rig in a dimly lit, smokey gin mill at 9 PM on a Saturday night and opening his gig bag/box with a couple of 20 ft "round"instrument cables and several well used 5-10 ft "round" cables, of which he knows that some are "speaker" cables and some are "instrument/signal/shielded cables" that are all about the same diameter, and wondering "Now Where's That Damned Magnifying Glass!" Of course, sussing it all out at home and clearly labelling them ahead of time is another suitable option!
Just Sayin'
Gene

 

[Micky]

I will generally put some red heat-shrink tubing on the speaker plugs over the housing.
Not only does it help identify the cables, it provides some strain relief.

 

[JohnH]

There's plenty of good answers already. So mine are just observations:

My speaker cables are thicker than my instrument cables, and they are shorter lengths that I don't use for the guitar.
Also, with a speaker cable, you have two equal conductors, while for an instrument cable, they are different since one is a core and one is a braid. I wonder if this difference would be enough to show up on a multimeter measuring resistance? Then tag the speaker cables for the future
I did use a guitar cable for a speaker once, it was for a foldback wedge, the last in a chain running off a power amp. Not too much going through it, and got away with it, but felt guilty!