Is there a reason I should resolder all my rack cables to improve this? Photos given.

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Delicieuxz

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I have a very large amp rack, which I'm currently rebuilding and reorganising, and it has lots of cables in it. I made the cables pre-2010, and I might not've had as good an idea of how I should do it then as I do now. The cable is EWI PCS-2560, which has very dense braided shielding and a low capacitance (86 pF/m | 26 pF/f), so I think there's no reason for me to replace it, and the jacks are all Switchcraft 280.

Here's a photo of the original soldering (all the cables' original soldering are just like this one):

OrOgNHX.jpg


Here's a photo of me redoing it now:

TMtpxQA.jpg


My soldering knowledge mostly comes from YouTube videos, which suggest to me there shouldn't be the gap between the conductor wire and the Switchcraft solder tab. But will it (and multiplies by dozens of cables) make a functional difference in performance / noise / anything? A YouTube video also tells me I should also be peeling the black inner insulation around the conductor back, as it's itself conductive. The soldered shielding isn't as pretty in the new one, though it's a solid connection. I wanted to see if I could get away without using any flux and needing to clean it up afterwards, and avoid a lot of additional work on a pile of cables. But I think I'll be using flux for them and will put a bit on this one, too.

I don't have a problem with redoing all the cables' soldering if it will improve their performance / noiselessless in the rack. But will it actually do that, or is it wasted effort on my part to resolder all the cables in my rack?


By the way, are gold connectors just marketing propaganda, with no actual difference in performance? I'm looking at ordering some Neutrik connectors for guitar cables and thinking about it.
 
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StingRay85

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I don't see how this can make an audible difference. Obviously its looking a lot more professional in the 2nd picture. If they worked fine for 10+ years, why bother with it now?
 

Delicieuxz

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I don't see how this can make an audible difference. Obviously its looking a lot more professional in the 2nd picture. If they worked fine for 10+ years, why bother with it now?
My main wonder is if the longer exposed conductor wire (multiplied by 50+ or however many cables are the rack) is bad to have because it will pick up more noise.
 

Jon Snell

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It will not pick up more noise as the inner cable, whether exposed or covered in plastic is so short to make no difference.
If these leads were for use on stage, I would replace them with professionaly manufactured connectors but for a rack that is not moved, no issue just unprofessional if you want to take the time to examine them all.
Plastic shrinks.
I have to say though, the 2nd photo needs attention as the conductive plastic is almost touching the inner conductor.
 

Spanngitter

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That black stuff wrapped around the inner conductor insulator needs to get cut back, otherwise it shorts out your signal
(Pic #2 is a very good example for how it is NOT done)
 

Delicieuxz

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That black stuff wrapped around the inner conductor insulator needs to get cut back, otherwise it shorts out your signal
(Pic #2 is a very good example for how it is NOT done)
Yes, and I mentioned the black covering of the conductor insulator in the OP. I've since peeled it back.

A YouTube video also tells me I should also be peeling the black inner insulation around the conductor back, as it's itself conductive.
 

Pete Farrington

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the 2nd photo needs attention as the conductive plastic is almost touching the inner conductor.
One of my friends had been making his own cables for maybe 40 years without appreciating this was an issue.
When I checked his pedalboard, some of the cable’s insulation resistance was only about a few kohms, which was killing the signal.
The black inner layer is conductive and so must be stripped back!
 

StingRay85

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An unexperienced person (like me) would have never guessed that this black plastic would be conductive.
 

Matthews Guitars

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Although it's not dirt cheap, for wiring up a rack or pedalboard that you intend to keep in its current configuration for a while, I would recommend using George L's wire and cable and keeping cable lengths to their minimal practical size. And use a lot of 90 degree plugs.
 

alecks

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Although it's not dirt cheap, for wiring up a rack or pedalboard that you intend to keep in its current configuration for a while, I would recommend using George L's wire and cable and keeping cable lengths to their minimal practical size. And use a lot of 90 degree plugs.
Can you please check your email? Been trying to reach you here and via email on a pending order. Thanks.
 
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