Pair of odd sized pine TL806 builds done - for now...

[Geeze]

It was left open at the request of the customer. I believe you are correct about the frequency but he claims it's his best sounding cab. It's possible the narrow slot at the back of the port deck may being doing something to raise the frequency. Grasping at nonscientific straws here.

I spoke with @Dogs of Doom about a reference mic / analysis software a few years back and that itch is back. I plan to revisit this again.

Russ

 

[Geeze]

Corners rounded on stripe cab - mainly to practice sanding / rounding edges with soft material.

No pic of the spline jig yet.

Russ

 

[Geeze]

Spline jig cobbled together with bits and bobs.

Inside of the cut at my saws full extension.

Walnut scrap milled to .092" and posed in cut.

Walnut splines cut for glue up,

Glued.

I'm experimenting on the 'spare' cab to certify this will actually work rather than the standard BANZAI! off the cliff method I normally use.

Russ

 

[fitz]

For the baffle frame I want to try a spline cut in the corners to stabilize the frame - a handy reason to another jig.

Cool jig.
Nice way to lock that simple butt joint together.
Quicker than a lot of tenon cheek and shoulder cuts, and way more glue area than a half lap.

So, is what you call "baffle frame" a front load frame for the grill cloth?

 

[Geeze]

So, is what you call "baffle frame" a front load frame for the grill cloth?

Yes. I prefer to rear mount speakers in most cases - they put cork or similar gasket material on the front of the speaker and I always thought it was a better seal / mount for the frame to even out irregularities in the wood. Here is a pic I found as I needed to trim .0625" off an existing frame to fit correctly. I'd have to change some dimensions if I were to staple the grill cloth on the baffle. If I built TL806s more often these are the 4th and 5th I've built in 12 years I've probably do that as the frame is a pain.

Russ

 

[Geeze]

Frames sprayed.

Grill cloth installed. I'm not a fan of the cane / natural fiber grill material. It's hard to work with and get crisp edges. These are taken before water treatment. The edges are a bit puffy and the center deflects too much.

And after. A heat gun beats a hair dryer like a rented mule for delivering HEAT to tighten the cloth.

Handles, feet and wiring harnesses left.

Russ

 

[PelliX]

The worst bit about your project pics, Russ, is that you can almost SMELL the damn freshly sawn wood...

You're good at this stuff. You hear it a lot, but I like to give credit where credit is due, man.

 

[Geeze]

Grill #2.

I use a jig that has one end of the frame secured with screws.

I tried something new I lined up the cloth then ran a row of staples across the front to hold it firm while I ran the end staples in. Once I get the end set and the cloth aligned down the sides I clamp the loose end to keep it from pulling up when I use my foot stretcher for tension.

The BB cloth is thick like the salt and pepper used on the first cab and ends up not as taut as I would like. I tried the water / heat gun and not sure if it made a difference. There was a center section that had a bit more 'puff' than I would like and rather than pull the bits I liked I cut the section so when I pulled only it was affected. Sorta pleased with the result.

After trimming the excess cloth I use a hammer to flatten the staples and must have gotten carried away as the middle frame strut popped loose on one end. I noticed it when I as dry fitting the grill into the cab and it insisted on being angled. I drilled in a .250" hole about 1.5" in.

Sanded some .250" doweling to snug fit the hole, slapped on some glue and tapped them into the hole.

Stripe cab - I'm going to run it vertically.

Vs. horizontally.

Russ

 

[Geeze]

Handle and feet time for the cab going to Texas. I like to clamp a board to the underside of where I'm drilling to eliminate tear out.

Complete - it weights 18.8lb.

The stripe cab with feet - I don't have another brown handle so it will need to wait. Had one of those 'aw sh*t!!!!' moments as I ran it with a JTM45 and was getting a buzzing resonance on A & somewhat reduced on E. Visions of acoustic guitar top bracing and concerns roared through the problem solving pit. I reached over to touch the back and thought 'check the metal shield on the cord' and voila - it was loose - a couple of turns and resonance gone. Mumble.

Now I feel the engineer side thinking about analyzing the cab with a refence mic and software to ponder the mystery's of plugging ports, swapping out the back for a thicker piece of ply or MDF, spraying on finish, etc.

I'm gonna sit down until that thinking goes away!

Russ