Just got my Mazda ECC83 through.
Its exactly the same as my Brimar.
And tests strong! all for £5.99!
I like the JJ 803S. It is a perfect match for the Orange Rocker 30.
Great price. Of course, we'll need a tone report and some pics!
Yeah, well iv tested it and it sounds great. No noise high gain for a NOS valve.
It sounds different to the Mullard.
Bit smoother, but the Mullard has a real mid punch which you cant complain about. Sounds more 'Vintage' to me.
Il stick some photos of em all up later...
I like the JJ 803S. It is a perfect match for the Orange Rocker 30.
Slant Getter Raytheon. Probably an Amperex or Philips tube. Later Amperex, non-Bugle Boy has a cut-out in the plate like the Raytheon. Everything looks the same except for the slant top getter.
EDIT: Third picture down is the one that tells all. The Amperex only has cut-outs on the outer plates. The Mullard design has the cut-out going through the outer and inner plates. This is what the Raytheon has. See post below.
Good shot of plate cut-outs. Same style mica spacers and plate design.
I took a look at some various Mullards and they all had the cut-out and the same plate design.
The RCA Mullard is on the left. It has the identical internal structure as a late design Amperex (which could have been made by Mullard). The Raytheon is very similar to both. Then I start thinking about the Mullard equipment that went to Japan.
JJ Tubes any good?
Hey WEGMAN you owe me. You also owe Jon Wilder a cold beer...a good one.
I looked at the schematic on Dr. Tube and I broke it down to what I thought the tubes were doing. I was close, but Jon was exact. Take a walk with me.
There you go. That signal path is like going in circles. Let's break it down.
Normal Channel: V1A and V2A and V2B
Boost Channel: V1A and V1B and V3A
Reverb: V3B and V4B
Effects Return: V4A
Phase Inverter: V5
To be honest, it would take some very serious tube rolling to set this amp up. In reality, you would want V1 to be say a 24-27 tube. Then V2 would be a 26-26 as this is your normal channel. Then you would have to get a tube for V3 that would be like 29-25. Not that difficult when you have 400 tubes.
So V1 is important, but what makes it tough is that it is double duty. Instead of a 27-27, you would want a 24-27. V2 is the easiest tube there is. It is dedicated to the Clean Channel. Your Boost Channel is like connect the dots.
However, it can be done. I just needed to see how it worked.
And yes, you are going to have to get your tubes tested so you can rethink your approach on this monster.
No, this is more like Differential Equations.
Wait till Weggie gets a load of this.
<Wakes up and goes to computer.>
<Goes to Marshall Amp Forum, Preamp Tubes Thread.>
<Sees what Marty has posted.>
<Shits his pants.>
Yeah what I can do is test the tubes and see what you have. Then I might be able to do a trade plus a little cash for what you need. I have lopsided tubes that will work perfectly in this amp.
I tell you I didn't know anything about this amp. It is a killer amp and Jon and I love the design. It is really old school, but it is a two channel. It was Marshall's final offering of the 800. It was made for about two years then the 900's came out. If I ever find a 2205, I may just snap it up. (Now that I know how it works.)
Give Jon a shout and let him know that you appreciate his help.
Well my pair of Bel 12ax7 came today, they sound and look exactly like my other phillips tubes, ie great! Scored this pair for £15. Has the number 71 ethced just above another alphanumeric etching saying E05 on both valves.
. Are you guys familiar with "black top" getter flash? This is actually a better getter material than the nice chrome looking flash. It took more time, so only a small amount were treated this way. Well, I got six Mullards and two of them are black tops.
Take care, Merry Christmas.