Torotor switch reason?

[Trapland]

I see VS has pretty nice replacement torotor replacements. Awesome and thank you to them.

My early 68 has the original torotors that are barely working without a loving massage to get them to switch. I want to replace them.
I see VS’s switches come in 2 and 4 lead versions. I have one of each as original equipment.

-What is the point of the 4 lead one?-

Since I’m replacing them does it really matter to anyone which version I use?

Thanks for any thoughts on this.

 

[stickyfinger]

No it doesn't matter. One switch has a input and a output and the other has two inputs and two outputs. I dont think Marshall wired all terminals on the 4 terminal switch.

If your original amp has the 4 terminal switch you might try rewiring to the other terminal and see if that still has life left.

 

[junk notes]

I see VS has pretty nice replacement torotor replacements. Awesome and thank you to them.

My early 68 has the original torotors that are barely working without a loving massage to get them to switch. I want to replace them.
I see VS’s switches come in 2 and 4 lead versions. I have one of each as original equipment.

-What is the point of the 4 lead one?-

Since I’m replacing them does it really matter to anyone which version I use?

Thanks for any thoughts on this.

You could always switch over to the Arrow's (black bats), but keep looking for those Torotor's, or settle on VS.

 

[Trapland]

No it doesn't matter. One switch has a input and a output and the other has two inputs and two outputs. I dont think Marshall wired all terminals on the 4 terminal switch.

If your original amp has the 4 terminal switch you might try rewiring to the other terminal and see if that still has life left.

Alas, I’m already on the second pair of terminals. The VS ones look pretty good, I hope they are close enough to replace both and MAYBE sell the originals. One works well and the other works when *I* flip it but others have trouble.

 

[neikeel]

I’ve been using those for a while. Good switches.
4-pole gives you chance to subtly modernise (make safer) the mains live/neutral switching?

 

[Trapland]

I remember that was a problem but I don’t remember the details. I should make sure my 68 is safe. What is the wrong way vs the modern correct way? Are the wire colors consistent?

 

[AtomicRob]

My early 68 has the original torotors that are barely working without a loving massage to get them to switch.

You might be able to keep it at least partly more original if you didn't want to replace the standby switch, just hard wire it "on" by connecting the rear terminals, or just get it in a working spot and leave it. There's really no need to use it. On my vintage amps I just leave standby on to avoid wear and tear and only toggle the power switch. On my new builds I don't even bother to put a standby.

 

[Marshallhead]

If the Torotor switch has the back fixed on by screws you can dismantle it and clean the insides of crud. Use lubricating switch cleaner.

I recall fixing these switches that way a while back. Only pain was making sure I put all the little springs and contacts back in properly, but take the back off careful to see where they all go - don’t just let it all randomly spill out!