Why can't I ebonize my fretboard????

[PowerTube44]

I practically stole a Jackson Soloist SL3X from a pawn shop recently. I made them a serious lowball offer and they took it. I love the guitar except for one thing: the Laurel fretboard. I hate that brown Rosewood look.

So I decided to ebonize it. The problem? NOTHING I've tried will soak into this wood. Nothing. I started with Minwax True Black stain. I sanded the board lightly, applied the stain, and waited. The next day, the stain would easily just rub right off.

Next up: India ink. I bought some Speedball India ink from Hobby Lobby. Lightly sanded the board again and applied the ink with a brush. The next morning... tada!!! ... it just rubs right off.

What's going on here? I REALLY want this fretboard to be black, like the Ebony on my USA Soloists. But it seems that nothing will soak into this wood.

Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

 

[hsb]

If the board has been oiled, that is preventing the stain from soaking in. This also includes oils from your fingers.

Stew Mac selling a fret board darking oil that may or may not work.

Another product Ive heard with mixed results is made by Monty Presso

You also have to be careful with inlays and binding that they dont get stain on them.

 

[PowerTube44]

If the board has been oiled, that is preventing the stain from soaking in. This also includes oils from your fingers.

Stew Mac selling a fret board darking oil that may or may not work.

Another product Ive heard with mixed results is made by Monty Presso

You also have to be careful with inlays and binding that they dont get stain on them.

But I lightly sanded the board before each attempt.

 

[fitz]

I sanded the board lightly, applied the stain, and waited. The next day, the stain would easily just rub right off.

Try cleaning the fretboard with a light solvent first, like naphtha (lighter fluid) to remove some of the oils that are preventing the stain from penetrating.
You could also try a pre-stain solution before applying the stain to help the stain penetrate more evenly.

 

[DirtySteve]

Has it been sealed? You may have to scrape it first.

 

[PowerTube44]

Has it been sealed? You may have to scrape it first.

No, it's not laminated at all and I can't tell that it's been sealed.

 

[lespaul339]

 

[hsb]

But I lightly sanded the board before each attempt.

Yes but that doesnt get rid if the oil thats soaked into the board, oil doesnt just sit on top of the wood, the oils are absorbed into the wood

 

[PowerTube44]

Yes but that doesnt get rid if the oil thats soaked into the board, oil doesnt just sit on top of the wood, the oils are absorbed into the wood

How do I get rid of the oils and get the wood dry again?

 

[El Gringo]

Ok, this was recommended to me by a tech . Varathane Classic Touch Up Marker (for quick touch up and staining ) Red Mahogany is the color . I got this from Home Depot . This stuff when dried looks like a dark brown and dare I say like a real dark rosewood board color . This stuff hasn't come off from the rosewood boards that I have touched up . I am in a beef with my tech who is a bit anal or OCD when it comes to caring and cleaning my herd . Tech told me that I am covering up the natural color of the board , to which if the board is sourced for being dark he should not have to try to get rid of the darkness . Really pissed me off I tell you and I want to know what type of cleaner and how abrasive it is and all he told me is it's regular Gibson Cleaner polish or whatever it's called from Gibson .

 

[fitz]

How do I get rid of the oils and get the wood dry again?

Solvent will remove the oils and evaporate.
Get some lighter fluid and some Q-tips.

 

[EJstrat&JVM]

You joking? If I want to ebonize I use juice of oak leaves (just boil them), followed by rust juice (mix vinegar and old iron). It will go deep in the wood and stay for ever.

 

[PowerTube44]

You joking? If I want to ebonize I use juice of oak leaves (just boil them), followed by rust juice (mix vinegar and old iron). It will go deep in the wood and stay for ever.

But the problem is that nothing seems to soak into this wood. I'm going to follow the advice above and get some lighter fluid.

 

[EJstrat&JVM]

But the problem is that nothing seems to soak into this wood. I'm going to follow the advice above and get some lighter fluid.

It means you need sanding or scraping. The oak+rust never fails.

 

[steveb63]

You joking? If I want to ebonize I use juice of oak leaves (just boil them), followed by rust juice (mix vinegar and old iron). It will go deep in the wood and stay for ever.

Walnut bark works great as well.
Provided you have walnut trees Lol.

 

[fitz]

Minwax True Black stain

^^^ This $#!+ is as black as black gets...

 

[PowerTube44]

^^^ This $#!+ is as black as black gets...

I just started an experiment. I cleaned two sections between frets thoroughly with the lighter fluid. I treated one with the India ink, and the other with Minwax True Black.

I've used Minwax before to yellow/age maple Strat necks and it worked beautifully. My goal here is to get the True Black or India ink, whichever works best, to soak into the wood so that it doesn't wipe off when I rub it with a cloth.

 

[Dogs of Doom]

you need to extract the oil from the wood...

not an easy process & might mess w/ the integrity of any glues. You can try like those McGuire's finish remover solvents. You'll probably want to mask off the back of the neck, so it doesn't get jacked up.

I did see a removal process done w/ laser, that looked interesting, but it was done on cabinets, etc.

 

[Geeze]

I've refinished a couple of oiled cabs and it was a bitch. I sanded with an orbital sander and went through a pile of disks and I didn't get it all. Short of burning with a laser I'm not sure you'll get it all out.

On furniture / bigger bits you could seal the oil with shellac or lacquer and run a gel type dye on top then seal the dye with more lacquer. I don't know how long that would last on a fretboard or interact with the inlays.

Russ

 

[Dogs of Doom]

probably the easiest option is to pay a luthier to remove the fingerboard, & install a black ebony one...

cost a couple hundred, but... by the time you go through all the experiments & such, you'll probably be out that much anyway & it won't come out how you want...