Wonky pickguard on my new Les Paul.

[giblesp]

Noticed that that the pickguard on my new Les Paul is slightly bent.

On closer inspection, the screw on the base isn't touching the body causing the pickguard to float. It then presses into the body with slight pressure, and has left a small mark in the nitro.

Possible that they drilled the pickguard hole too high? It's higher than my LP Studio.

I've attached some pics, white LP is my Studio. Tried to photo the underside of the pickguard.

I'm thinking the solution is to put some felt under the screw? Not keen on getting another hole drilled!

 

[Vinsanitizer]

Being the forum's official Gibson Les Paul pickguard expert , here's the deal:

Yup, they drilled the hole too high, which makes the pickguard sit too high to the back pickup ring, so they bent the bracket downward to compensate. Don't do that while the pickguard is on your guitar, or you'll dent the top.

The screw in my Les Pauls is just about right on the line where the binding meets the body, or slightly below it. It looks correct on your white Les Paul.

From the viewpoint of you first photo, you can try to fix the bend in the pickguard by twisting the top of the bracket clockwise with some pliers. That may help get the pickguard straighter. Just keep in mind that if you use pliers, they'll scratch the chrome. So a vice would be better.

Also, when you're done making any changes, make sure that when 'guard is back on your guitar, and with it sitting on your lap facing upward, to hold the bracket really tight and pull the 'guard up and toward the back pickup ring, to close any gap between the 'guard and the pickup ring. If it won't move, try loosening the top bracket screw 1/4 turn or less. It should look nice and tight, like this:

 

[Vinsanitizer]

As a last resort, seeing that the screw is all the way into the middle of the binding, you "could" just re-drill a new hole right where the body meets the binding. The bracket would cover up the original hole. I'd recommend using a tap to hammer the drilling hole exactly where you want it before drilling, because if you just stick a drill bit where you want it, 99% chance that bit is gonna slide where you don't want it to.

Personally, I wouldn't do that on a brand new guitar though, unless I was going OCD about it and the guitar was past the return/ exchange date. If you do consider it, think about it for a few days so you don't rush into it. Drilling new holes is permanent.

 

[giblesp]

Being the forum's official Gibson Les Paul pickguard expert , here's the deal:

Yup, they drilled the hole too high, which makes the pickguard sit too high to the back pickup ring, so they bent the bracket downward to compensate. Don't do that while the pickguard is on your guitar, or you'll dent the top.

The screw in my Les Pauls is just about right on the line where the binding meets the body, or slightly below it. It looks correct on your white Les Paul.

From the viewpoint of you first photo, you can try to fix the bend in the pickguard by twisting the top of the bracket clockwise with some pliers. That may help get the pickguard straighter. Just keep in mind that if you use pliers, they'll scratch the chrome. So a vice would be better.

Also, when you're done making any changes, make sure that when 'guard is back on your guitar, and with it sitting on your lap facing upward, to hold the bracket really tight and pull the 'guard up and toward the back pickup ring, to close any gap between the 'guard and the pickup ring. If it won't move, try loosening the top bracket screw 1/4 turn or less. It should look nice and tight, like this:

Man, what the hell is wrong with Gibson. Is it that hard to drill a hole in the right place?!

I put some foam under the nut that's underneath the guard... that's protecting the body but it doesn't look great. Pickguards too high.

The options I can see are;

-Trying the bend the bracket and see iif that works
-Get a new hole drilled and fill in the old one (Luthier, and that should be payed for under the Gibson guarantee)
-Using a srewless pickguard mount. (Love the look of the bracket though)

Are there shorter pickguard brackets, or height adjustable ones? I've looked online but can't see any.

Could always try and make an exchange with the dealer, thing is I want these particular frets. I bought an open box with very minor defects on sale, a '20 model. Some of the Classics for that year had higher frets. Amazing guitar, and really don't want to return her.

 

[giblesp]

As a last resort, seeing that the screw is all the way into the middle of the binding, you "could" just re-drill a new hole right where the body meets the binding. The bracket would cover up the original hole. I'd recommend using a tap to hammer the drilling hole exactly where you want it before drilling, because if you just stick a drill bit where you want it, 99% chance that bit is gonna slide where you don't want it to.

Personally, I wouldn't do that on a brand new guitar though, unless I was going OCD about it and the guitar was past the return/ exchange date. If you do consider it, think about it for a few days so you don't rush into it. Drilling new holes is permanent.

No, I'm not too keen on getting a new hole drilled. But if the original hole is filled in and hidden by the bracket, it might not be a big deal.

 

[El Gringo]

You could also just remove the pickguard .

 

[Vinsanitizer]

You could also just remove the pickguard .

NO, DAMMIT!

 

[giblesp]

You could also just remove the pickguard .

Prefer the pickguard on, helps my playing and like the look.

 

[Vinsanitizer]

Prefer the pickguard on, helps my playing and like the look.

It also improves your tone, as I have previously documented here before, in 8K crystal clarity.

 

[jmp45]

As a last resort, seeing that the screw is all the way into the middle of the binding, you "could" just re-drill a new hole right where the body meets the binding. The bracket would cover up the original hole. I'd recommend using a tap to hammer the drilling hole exactly where you want it before drilling, because if you just stick a drill bit where you want it, 99% chance that bit is gonna slide where you don't want it to.

Personally, I wouldn't do that on a brand new guitar though, unless I was going OCD about it and the guitar was past the return/ exchange date. If you do consider it, think about it for a few days so you don't rush into it. Drilling new holes is permanent.

Another tip for drilling I got from R&S guitar works removing a 5 way switch to a toggle (a bit oversized hole) in my PRS CE24. To avoid tearing up the top, run the drill backwards. It still cuts but very slowly and without damaging the top / finish. Maybe when you start to drill run backwards to get through the finish and getting a good start on the new hole then forward if you opt to do that.

 

[giblesp]

Another tip for drilling I got from R&S guitar works removing a 5 way switch to a toggle (a bit oversized hole) in my PRS CE24. To avoid tearing up the top, run the drill backwards. It still cuts but very slowly and without damaging the top / finish. Maybe when you start to drill run backwards to get through the finish and getting a good start on the new hole then forward if you opt to do that.

Just wood filler, white nitro on top? The old hole would be where the binding is. I'd get a Luthier to do it, if I take that path. Will write to Gibson, try and get them to sort it out under warranty. Get them to sort out the case, blemish in the binding I mentioned in other threads, if possible.

Got this guitar for £500 off current retail, so can't complain. Cost me £1,380. In fact, some dealers asking £2K now. (!)

 

[jmp45]

Just wood filler, white nitro on top? The old hole would be where the binding is. I'd get a Luthier to do it, if I take that path. Will write to Gibson, try and get them to sort it out under warranty. Get them to sort out the case, blemish in the binding I mentioned in other threads, if possible.

Got this guitar for £500 off current retail, so can't complain. Cost me £1,380. In fact, some dealers asking £2K now. (!)

To refinish, I can't help with. I typically destroy everything before I fix it..

 

[DirtySteve]

I'll never understand the pickguard on a Les Paul. A floating pickguard just doesn't make sense to me.

 

[PowerTube44]

Check the headstock. Make sure it doesn't look like this:

 

[giblesp]

Check the headstock. Make sure it doesn't look like this:

View attachment 144523

Naaa, we can trust Chibson to drill holes in the right places

 

[giblesp]

Update, Gibson said they'll cover it. Will try and get the other minor issues sorted also; case and blmished binding. Would prefer to get a local luithier to do it under warranty so I could have a chat face to face, rather than get it posted. (This was possible in Portland with my first Les Paul, way back in '05)

Will give an update as to what the process is, and if it gets sorted.

 

[V-man]

Check the headstock. Make sure it doesn't look like this:

How dare you! The PG screw would have been drilled correctly then.

Gibson: err authentic!


How fucking stupid do you have to be on a bright red guitar with fully contrasting binding to drill smack in the middle of the binding?!

NFW would I consider another hole unless the first could be plugged and some matching plastic glued/melted into a seamless repair. Even then…

My vote given your sensibilities is screw-free PG. That should be the case for 4/5 Gibsons as it is (if not, no PG)

 

[giblesp]

How fucking stupid do you have to be on a bright red guitar with fully contrasting binding to drill smack in the middle of the binding?!

Gibson factory....

 

[V-man]

Gibson factory....

Guess they’re Murphy aging nuts now.

I did come up with another option… custom bracket.

a bit of a PITA, but measuring off from the screw hole, drilling the appropriate pair of screw holes and there you go. Path to least resistance is the screw-free PG. Most proper correction is my latest suggestion, though labor-intensive.

 

[PowerTube44]

Gibson factory....

I doubt the authenticity of this. The monkey actually hit what he was aiming for.