I'm using an 8ohm cab, would I have to use the amplifier with a 4ohm load then?Yes. All 100w Marshall are capable of this.
Assume the cab load of 16 ohm...
1. Double impedance from 16 ohm to 8 ohm
2. remove either 2 outer tubes (1&4) or 2 inner (2&3).
Done.
I'm using an 8ohm cab, would I have to use the amplifier with a 4ohm load then?
And is there any internal modification needed or does this just work out of the box without risk of blowing the tubes?
Thanks for the reply.
just to avoid confusion I see here, and feel free to correct me.....
If you were at 4-tubes at 16-ohms, then you remove two tubes and turn the amp to 8-ohms.........you'd still want a 16-ohm load. You just need to "half" the amp's impedance while keeping the same speaking load.
just to avoid confusion I see here, and feel free to correct me.....
If you were at 4-tubes at 16-ohms, then you remove two tubes and turn the amp to 8-ohms.........you'd still want a 16-ohm load. You just need to "half" the amp's impedance while keeping the same speaking load.
Oh, that makes sense now, in my case I have an 8 ohm cab and the impedance selector from my amp is set to 8 ohms obviously, so I should set the impedance selector to 4 ohms and still use my 8 ohm cab, is that correct?
It's a VL-502 (the 50watt version of the VL-1002) designed by Lee Jackson and built by Ampeg SLM, it's basically a JCM 800 on steroids.
Not really what I'm after, I already have a Marshall Power Brake to tame the volume, and also I don't mind about the headroom/breakup difference between 100w and 50w.^^^^^ A very appropriate and well worded clarification, right there! ^^^^^
This is still a much les than optimal means of shaving a very minimal (at best) amount of volume from a 100 watt amp, as correctly alluded to by @Pete Farrington ! A really good attenuator (like the @JohnH ) while running the amp with all four power tubes (as designed) would be a far superior solution!
Just Thinkin'
Gene
Not really what I'm after, I already have a Marshall Power Brake to tame the volume, and also I don't mind about the headroom/breakup difference between 100w and 50w.
What I'm exploring, since I have now two EL34 amplifiers, is to take a pair of JJs from my JCM800 2210 to have as spare in case I need in the future, tubes are very expensive now so I might do that.
Oh, don't know how but for some reason I missed Pete's comment, yeah that's what I really needed to know, I read somewhere else that the current levels would increase inside the amp, and that confirms it, therefore in the long run doesn't seem to be a wise thing to do. I'll leave it as it is.As mentioned by @Pete Farrington , using just two tubes may possibly shorten their useful life. So, what are you really gaining?
Your Amp, Your Tubes, Your $$, Your Choice!
Gene
yup.......the amp knob will be 4 ohms but the speaker cabinet will be 8 ohmsOh, that makes sense now, in my case I have an 8 ohm cab and the impedance selector from my amp is set to 8 ohms obviously, so I should set the impedance selector to 4 ohms and still use my 8 ohm cab, is that correct?
that amp has a built-in attenuator...
but... it also has a design flaw, where, if you run it hot, it has a few failing points. #1 being the molex connectors between the main board & the output board. There's a couple more things, Lee outlines in his fix/repair video...
yeah, but, in the meantime, I wouldn't do anything that will push the power section. On that one that Lee fixes, he reroutes a high voltage wire direct to the power board, because it fried a spot on the main board.Yes, in fact I got it for a bit cheap because it has exactly that same MOLEX connector problem (it burned out as usual). I'm going to fix (hopefully) it whenever I have time.
Lee Jackson designed this amp but Ampeg cheaped out on certain things to save money, however after doing these mods, the amp should be good to go for years and it's quite a beast!
That's right, I intend to do everything he does in the video, I won't really use the built-in attenuator because I have a Marshall PB100 that's more than sufficient.yeah, but, in the meantime, I wouldn't do anything that will push the power section. On that one that Lee fixes, he reroutes a high voltage wire direct to the power board, because it fried a spot on the main board.
I'd do everything he does in that video...
also... the attenuator will be hard on the power section.
anything that causes heat to build up.
I have a VL5001 (single channel), that needs worked on still.
nothing yet...That's right, I intend to do everything he does in the video, I won't really use the built-in attenuator because I have a Marshall PB100 that's more than sufficient.
What have you done to your VL5001 so far?