Customized string sets? Gauges should +/- by? per position? Formula?

AttillaDeHunt

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O.K. This is where those who know about such things share with the class.

Specifically, I am pondering re-stringing a Strat' to be something sorta between baritone guitar and piccolo Bass. I like the idea of the Fender VI, and was thinking that if I were to increase the size of the strings on this Strat', that I may get something similar-ish to that, or maybe it will be more Mustang-ey-esque. I do not know how scale might play into this experiment, how the tuning may or may not work out, but I have a bunch of different gauges of strings to draw from and enough time on my hands to check a few combinations out.

My biggest unknown is how the gauges progress as the sizes increase so that they act like "a set". I have a wound .020 for my lightest and a .074 for the heaviest, but really would like to try going no heavier than a .064 if possible. I know this is a bit more sketchy than just drop-tuning a set of "Nocturnal Emissions", and maybe there's even a good reason why this just won't work, but, at the very least, maybe the reasoning of how the gauges progress in a set of strings, and why size X should be followed by size Y and then Z will get expressed, and maybe some of us will learn something about strings that's useful elsewhere, too, maybe.

I am certain I'm not the only one pondering such things, I'm just the one who asked about it out loud... here. So before saddles and nut-grooves get filed down and perma-modded, ANY knowledge or insight could be helpful.
I asked here not just to rile up the 'Gallery, but because I genuinely don't know & I bet someone here does, maybe they will share.
Anyone???
 

houseofrock

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AttillaDeHunt

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I do appreciate the suggestions, which I did go look at BTW, and I thank you for indulging me that info, too. I am really curious to know what formula/method determins the gauges difference in a set, more accurately I want to know is there some math that I could do that tells me what the next size string could be, needs to be, or can't be?
 

Maggot Brain

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https://stringjoy.com/jimi-hendrixs-guitar-string-gauges/

Here is a rather brief look into how Roger Mayer approached Jimi's string gauges but I'm sure a lot of math and formula is determined by the end goal.

In my opinion I think it's impossible to say one formula will work as it depends completely on what the individual is desiring when it comes to tone, feel and playability but maybe Roger's formula may give you somewhere to start. Jimi's strat was obviously reversed so I'm sure that plays a part in Roger's approach. You can see David Gilmour's approach and then SRV and compare where each guitarist was aiming to accomplish and then get an idea on how they came to the gauges they used.

When playing my lefty Strat strung righty, the "Hendrix" gauges make sense, the balance in sound AND playability is very evident. I find common string sets a little uneven, I completely believe a heavier top and lighter bottom is a better "set" but it's non uncommon to see guys do the opposite.
 

AttillaDeHunt

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Thanx for posting that link, it is what I was looking for in many ways. String gauges/sizes are are so dependant on composition, (P, W, Steel, Bronze) tonally speaking, that it is a wonder than ANY sets ever got "standardized" in the first place. I did not realize just how complicated the question was, when I first posed it, nor did I think that there may not be an answer to it, realistically speaking, that was any better than a damn guess, either. I think "tension" was the only factor that I had considered, that was even close to working the way I had thought it should. So much for formulaic conclusions, huh? I ended up with a set that is really a Bass/Baritone hybrid-mix: 20w, 24w, 32w, 42w, 54w, 74w. I may swap the 24w for a 26w because it figures better on the tension meter, but I like it so far and the stock triple singles don't hate the choices, either. It sure makes a familiar instrument seem almost fundamentally different altogether.
 

AttillaDeHunt

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Now to do a little modding of the saddles and the nut-slots, and viola': Irrepairable damage!! LOL!! One less Bullet Squire in the world ain't gonna make anyone lose sleep, either way!
 

Maggot Brain

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Now to do a little modding of the saddles and the nut-slots, and viola': Irrepairable damage!! LOL!! One less Bullet Squire in the world ain't gonna make anyone lose sleep, either way!

It's nothing new saddles or a new nut couldn't fix, go for it!

I think the most important end goal is feel and then tone, I believe playability comes before tone in that if you have amazing tone but can't get comfortable with your strings then it'l defeats the purpose of playing. I also think having a good ear for the nuances of the guitar you're stringing is important as different woods, necks and pickups play in the overall sound also. I noticed some of my electrics sound louder unplugged than others and on some 1 string maybe louder than the rest of the strings in which case it dominates audibly when using some chords or scales etc... A lot of it is nuances that I'm sure most others couldn't pick up on but if guitar is your hobby or passion it can be fun to experiment with stuff such as strings.

I've recently discovered after almost 18 years of playing standard 9s that I really enjoy the sound and feel of 10s or 11s. I preferred the ease of bending and vibratos using the 9s but came to the conclusion that I like a little "fight" in my bends and vibratos, to need to really work the strings. I personally feel like they make me earn that bend or vibrato and keeps me prepared and focused with my technique. Strings that feel like rubber bands can be too easy to play and leave me in auto pilot in a sense, I'm sure some people love the slinky feel, I used too.

Have fun with your string experiment and let us know how you like them and any pros and cons they may have.
 
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