I bought another Canadian ‘73. Care to take a look?

[vice2.0]

TLDR - I thought I bought an American Superlead but it may be a CSA Super Bass

I got bit by the 70s Superlead bug. This one is a little different though. After taking quite a few shots I suspect this was actually a Superbass.

From what I can gather it has a lot of similarities and a few differences than the other.

First from your guys help from my last thread I gather that the original iron is there. Same make, has the same patina and colors as the one I bought last week.

This one has the original Daly caps and I was told it was all original with no holes drilled. But the faceplates were changed at some point? I was in a rush (bad thing to be when buying vintage amps) and didn’t check for the serial number. The back faceplate is a repro and doesn’t have a s/n. And the front is covering up where the Canadian polarity switch would be.

The back has two holes drilled but they seem to match up with where the extra speaker jacks holes would be. I took a lot of pics and would love some insight!

What I think is that I bought a Canadian 73 Superbass someone modded to USA 73 Superlead specs. I didn’t pay 1973 Undrilled Superlead prices so I’m not incredibly pissed but still concerned. I can get a refund if I ask for one, I’m pretty sure.

The assembly tag has the model crossed out. But I know it’s a Canadian made in 73.

Anyways here’s some pics.

The first pic with holes drilled is the front I’m guessing where the polarity would be and the one after with 2 holes drilled is the rear next to the other speaker jacks. Is there a way to verify? I can send more pics if necessary.

 

[Purgasound]

Not enough pics to tell the full story. Although we can tell you're missing the bright channel cathode resistor and bypass cap which we would assume out of frame would be the shared cathode on V1. This and you've got the larger 100nF phase inverter coupling caps. There are Superleads with larger coupling caps for the PI but the shared cathode on V1 indicates it's definitely a Superbass.
The cathode resistor and bypass cap on V2 is a mod someone did to get a little more juice out of it.

 

[vice2.0]

Not enough pics to tell the full story. Although we can tell you're missing the bright channel cathode resistor and bypass cap which we would assume out of frame would be the shared cathode on V1. This and you've got the larger 100nF phase inverter coupling caps. There are Superleads with larger coupling caps for the PI but the shared cathode on V1 indicates it's definitely a Superbass.
The cathode resistor and bypass cap on V2 is a mod someone did to get a little more juice out of it.

I got a few more. The whole underside of the chassis. The PT and views of the drills but pulled back a little.

 

[vice2.0]

Another for good measure

 

[LeverAction Gypsy]

I used to have a 1984 Canadian JCM 800 2204. I wish I still had it but decided to stay with combos that both sounded better, and get rid of the half stack - I needed cash and had a buyer at top dollar at the time. I knew the guy and he ended up frying it a year later and it never sounded the same after the repairs. The thing I noticed about all the Canadian JCM800s I looked at before buying is all had the square light not the rocker light switch and no 4 ohm speaker cab selection. It also had a sort of white/yellow paint coating on all the electrical connections which I never saw on any USA models. It had black caps, which seem to show up in many 1983-1984 amps and both of my 1983 JCM800 combos have them. Not sure what they are but every black cap Marshall I have played or owned that was stock sounded awesome. Heres some sound out of my 1983 4010 combo with black caps.

 

[LeverAction Gypsy]

TLDR - I thought I bought an American Superlead but it may be a CSA Super Bass

I got bit by the 70s Superlead bug. This one is a little different though. After taking quite a few shots I suspect this was actually a Superbass.

From what I can gather it has a lot of similarities and a few differences than the other.

First from your guys help from my last thread I gather that the original iron is there. Same make, has the same patina and colors as the one I bought last week.

This one has the original Daly caps and I was told it was all original with no holes drilled. But the faceplates were changed at some point? I was in a rush (bad thing to be when buying vintage amps) and didn’t check for the serial number. The back faceplate is a repro and doesn’t have a s/n. And the front is covering up where the Canadian polarity switch would be.

The back has two holes drilled but they seem to match up with where the extra speaker jacks holes would be. I took a lot of pics and would love some insight!

What I think is that I bought a Canadian 73 Superbass someone modded to USA 73 Superlead specs. I didn’t pay 1973 Undrilled Superlead prices so I’m not incredibly pissed but still concerned. I can get a refund if I ask for one, I’m pretty sure.

The assembly tag has the model crossed out. But I know it’s a Canadian made in 73.

Anyways here’s some pics.

The first pic with holes drilled is the front I’m guessing where the polarity would be and the one after with 2 holes drilled is the rear next to the other speaker jacks. Is there a way to verify? I can send more pics if necessary.

Well if you didnt pay top dollar (due to mod work) and you 'could' get a refund....how does it sound? Does it fill a gap that maybe your other amps dont fill? If it sounds good keep it!

 

[Clammy]

I have 2 1973 Canadian Super Bass heads. Canadian amps of that era didn't have polarity switches, and used heavy duty metal toggle switches instead of the Arrow black bats, so i would say your front panel is original to the amp. Unmodded, they sound amazing for guitar. I use mine for bass, mainly, but when I feel the need for 6 strings, I play through them too.

Look around on n the top of the chassis. You might find the serial number stamped near the input jacks. It won't have the "SB/A" or "SL/A" part, though.


If you paid a reasonable price, like the sound, and didn't buy it as a collector piece, I'd say keep it.

Cheers!

 

[TAZIN]

Clearly a Super Bass circuit with a few mods. The tone stack appears to be changed to Super Lead specs (33K/470pF). As mentioned, the cathode for V2a has been reworked with a 2K2 resistor & a unknown value bypass cap. Something is also up with the 470K resistors for the channel mixer section. I see an additional red cap (500pF ?) in the position where the other 470K resistor should be...

 

[p3x]

I used to have a 1984 Canadian JCM 800 2204. I wish I still had it but decided to stay with combos that both sounded better, and get rid of the half stack - I needed cash and had a buyer at top dollar at the time. I knew the guy and he ended up frying it a year later and it never sounded the same after the repairs. The thing I noticed about all the Canadian JCM800s I looked at before buying is all had the square light not the rocker light switch and no 4 ohm speaker cab selection. It also had a sort of white/yellow paint coating on all the electrical connections which I never saw on any USA models. It had black caps, which seem to show up in many 1983-1984 amps and both of my 1983 JCM800 combos have them. Not sure what they are but every black cap Marshall I have played or owned that was stock sounded awesome. Heres some sound out of my 1983 4010 combo with black caps.

I have a 1981 JMP (2204) and the most telling tale it's Canadian is the old fashioned (Metal) Switches). There's also a selector on the rear that allows you to set the Ohms of the Cab. - Min setting is 4 Ohms.
And of course you can't miss the French instructions.

 

[p3x]

I used to have a 1984 Canadian JCM 800 2204. I wish I still had it but decided to stay with combos that both sounded better, and get rid of the half stack - I needed cash and had a buyer at top dollar at the time. I knew the guy and he ended up frying it a year later and it never sounded the same after the repairs. The thing I noticed about all the Canadian JCM800s I looked at before buying is all had the square light not the rocker light switch and no 4 ohm speaker cab selection. It also had a sort of white/yellow paint coating on all the electrical connections which I never saw on any USA models. It had black caps, which seem to show up in many 1983-1984 amps and both of my 1983 JCM800 combos have them. Not sure what they are but every black cap Marshall I have played or owned that was stock sounded awesome. Heres some sound out of my 1983 4010 combo with black caps.

Nice chops!

 

[Trouble Free]

Those extra holes look original

 

[Dirty-D]

it's a fucken Rosemary you have one of the good'ens. Nice job

 

[vice2.0]

After playing both 73s with my Suhr RL back to back they both sound pretty damn close

Do you think I could get 3100-3200 USD for the amp? With travel and expenses to pick up the amp that’s about what I paid? I don’t mind taking a small hit and returning it. I went on a trip that added to the cost of picking it up.

From what I can gather it’s an original No Holes Drilled Superbass that would need a little work to get put back to original condition. It’s also missing the back panel but other than that is all original.

I know the superlead is more known but does the rarity of the superbass mean much?

 

[giam23]

Those holes are original, marshall always drilled the holes for the extra speaker jacks and the polarity switch in all chassis' and then changed the faceplates if it was a US spec. That PT is the canadian export one as its got different solder lugs and laminations.

Can you post better photos of the panels? from those few photos the front panel looks original. By 73 they usually have the serial numbers stamped on the top of the chassis in the corner nearest to the input jacks. SO is it missing a stamped serial number on the back panel?

To me looks like a very nice 73 canadian super bass that just needs a couple tweaks, why would you return it? what problems do you have with it? I would much prefer a canadian amp of this era to a USA one with the ugly polarity switch on the front

 

[AndyD]

Your amp looks very restorable to me without too much effort. As for value, I may be speaking out of turn, but I would think a non original rear panel without a serial number would reduce its value a fair amount. That said, it will make a lovely amp and if you love the sound (who doesn't like the sound of a superbass?!!!) after restoration, what does it matter value wise? I have found that the amps I love the most are the ones that I have had to do work on them to restore/renovate. Its a bonding thing!