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I got this handmade cabinet today with pre-rola.

Supernatural

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Hello all.

I got this custom handmade cabinet today with celestion greenback pre-rola G15M, 003 cone Geenback.

As you can see the speaker have a very small damage and i want to ask please if that is an easy repair to do my self. Also any info would be great for the story of this speaker please. I am not sure if this is for guitar or bass. And my last question is as they only amp I have now in my position is the Marshall MG30DFX, can I use it to drive that speaker to test it?

Thank you very much!















 

fitz

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only amp I have now in my position is the Marshall MG30DFX, can I use it to drive that speaker to test it?
Yes.
:welcome: to the forum.
15" 50w Greenback will probably sound fantastic compared to the MG series speaker.
Not sure of the ohms output on the MG30, but if it's lower than the 16 ohm speaker, it will just reduce your amp output watts - no harm to either amp or speaker.
 

Supernatural

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Thank you for the welcome!

This cabinet it was a luck. It’s appeared in front of my eyes in a flea market along with a bunch of old stuff. It was much dirtier than what you see.

I am planning to keep it and repair the small damage in the cone. I saw some videos and looks like an easy fix, but I will like your opinion also. :)
 
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Georgiatec

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Hello all.

I got this custom handmade cabinet today with celestion greenback pre-rola G15M, 003 cone Geenback.

As you can see the speaker have a very small damage and i want to ask please if that is an easy repair to do my self. Also any info would be great for the story of this speaker please. I am not sure if this is for guitar or bass. And my last question is as they only amp I have now in my position is the Marshall MG30DFX, can I use it to drive that speaker to test it?

Thank you very much!















Looks like a PA speaker (smooth cone, not ribbed). May sound okay with guitar, but was probably used with bass.
Repair should be pretty straight forward. I have a much more recent G12H-30 that had similar damage I just lined up the tear then ran a smidge of the flexible cyno glue into it. Has been fine for the last 10 years or so.
 

Supernatural

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A pulsonic cone !5" from the late '60s early '70s...........what's not to like.
Use super glue on the tiny bit of damage and she'll be right..............good score.
I search a bit about how to repair that issue. They don’t suggest super glue because it is not flexible. Many out there speak about white glue and a coffee filter. I am a bit confused to be honest. Other people talk about wood glue.
 

RLW59

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I search a bit about how to repair that issue. They don’t suggest super glue because it is not flexible. Many out there speak about white glue and a coffee filter. I am a bit confused to be honest. Other people talk about wood glue.
White glue, yellow wood glue, carpenter's glue, school glue, craft glue are all very similar. Main ingredient is PVA (poly vinyl acetate). In the US, the most common white glue is Elmer's, the most common wood glue is Titebond.

Some are waterproof after they dry, others remain water soluble after drying. All of them are slightly flexible, and for a speaker waterproof or water soluble are both fine.

Edit: avoid polyurethane glues and epoxies (which are sometimes labeled as being good for gluing wood, but aren't what "wood glue" refers to).

Paper towel (or tissue paper or coffee filter) is for reinforcing a rip where you can only glue the edges of the rip. For your tear, not necessary. Just smear a tiny bit of glue on it and press all the fibers back together. Adding some thin paper (toilet tissue, facial tissue, single-ply paper towel) wouldn't hurt but don't build it up thick because the tear is in the part of the cone that needs to flex when the cone moves.

Really, yours probably doesn't even require a repair. It won't get any worse.
-------------------------------
I've cleaned speakers for cabs that have metal grilles where the speaker is visible, using a slightly damp microfiber cloth, rubbing gently and cautiously.

But if it's going to be hidden behind a cloth grille I wouldn't try to clean it. Some of it looks like it may be bits of debris stuck to the doping on the surround -- maybe use a soft brush to dislodge them, but trying to clean the stains and splatters off it could do more harm than good.
 

Supernatural

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White glue, yellow wood glue, carpenter's glue, school glue, craft glue are all very similar. Main ingredient is PVA (poly vinyl acetate). In the US, the most common white glue is Elmer's, the most common wood glue is Titebond.

Some are waterproof after they dry, others remain water soluble after drying. All of them are slightly flexible, and for a speaker waterproof or water soluble are both fine.

Edit: avoid polyurethane glues and epoxies (which are sometimes labeled as being good for gluing wood, but aren't what "wood glue" refers to).

Paper towel (or tissue paper or coffee filter) is for reinforcing a rip where you can only glue the edges of the rip. For your tear, not necessary. Just smear a tiny bit of glue on it and press all the fibers back together. Adding some thin paper (toilet tissue, facial tissue, single-ply paper towel) wouldn't hurt but don't build it up thick because the tear is in the part of the cone that needs to flex when the cone moves.

Really, yours probably doesn't even require a repair. It won't get any worse.
-------------------------------
I've cleaned speakers for cabs that have metal grilles where the speaker is visible, using a slightly damp microfiber cloth, rubbing gently and cautiously.

But if it's going to be hidden behind a cloth grille I wouldn't try to clean it. Some of it looks like it may be bits of debris stuck to the doping on the surround -- maybe use a soft brush to dislodge them, but trying to clean the stains and splatters off it could do more harm than good.
Thank you very much for all this informations!
 

Supernatural

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A question please.

I am not planning to sell this beauty but i will like to know the value of this speaker.

Can someone help on that?


I just finish the glue process. I didn’t put any paper to it. Looks ok. In the future, after some time of use i will check again and see if all it is ok. In the front the damage was tiny, just a very small hole. All the damage was in the back. We will see how it goes.



 
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Georgiatec

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A question please.

I am not planning to sell this beauty but i will like to know the value of this speaker.

Can someone help on that?


I just finish the glue process. I didn’t put any paper to it. Looks ok. In the future, after some time of use i will check again and see if all it is ok. In the front the damage was tiny, just a very small hole. All the damage was in the back. We will see how it goes.



More curiosity value than anything. Unless evidence comes out about them being used on famous recordings. According to Bygone Tones, they were fitted into Marshall 4 x 15 model 1979 cabs. These days most original Pulsonic Cone Celestions have value, however, you would probably have to put it up for sale to find out how much it's worth.
I have a Celestion 15" Powercell speaker in a cab from the '70's, 230w rating, so very useful as a bass or PA woofer, but as for value, who knows?
 

Supernatural

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I have a dilemma. To be honest it’s is not exactly a dilemma but what is wrong and what is right to do.

First of all I decided to restore all the cabinet with fresh varnish painting, that color:



New grill fabric:



And new wood to fit my speaker cause the old one is very bad and need replace:



My "dilemma” is the hole size. If you see the following photos, the hole size it is much smaller than the speaker size:






Here are some other photos that help you see the size difference:





So, my question is if the smaller hole hide the quality of the speaker and if it is more right to go with a bigger hole in my new wood. I am afraid that if I go with a bigger hole there won’t be much room for the wood to accommodate the structure that holds the speaker at the sides.

I don’t know if you understand well what I mean cause my English is bad. :)
 

fitz

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So, my question is if the smaller hole hide the quality of the speaker and if it is more right to go with a bigger hole in my new wood. I am afraid that if I go with a bigger hole there won’t be much room for the wood to accommodate the structure that holds the speaker at the sides.
I think the only current production 15" Celestion speaker is the G15V-100 Fullback.
Specs say the cut-out diameter should be 351mm / 13.8"
The smaller baffle hole in your little cab is probably changing the tone of the speaker.
How was the speaker mounted on the current baffle?
 

Supernatural

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I think the only current production 15" Celestion speaker is the G15V-100 Fullback.
Specs say the cut-out diameter should be 351mm / 13.8"
The smaller baffle hole in your little cab is probably changing the tone of the speaker.
How was the speaker mounted on the current baffle?
Thank you!

If you can zoom the following photo there is a black cycle with a marker. That is the outside diameter of my speaker. I just measured the cut hole in this wood and it is 270mm / 10.62"

 

RLW59

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Thank you!

If you can zoom the following photo there is a black cycle with a marker. That is the outside diameter of my speaker. I just measured the cut hole in this wood and it is 270mm / 10.62"

The actual cutout will be smaller than that circle. Plenty of wood left for strength, even if you use particle board or MDF.

Plywood would be even stronger. But you should use void-free plywood, not construction grade and that can be fairly expensive.

Ply is stronger and resonates more. But on such a small baffle resonance isn't significant, and particle board or MDF are adequately strong.
 

Matthews Guitars

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Do not use superglue on the cone. Patch the damaged spot with a little fabric glue and pieces of tissue paper. Dab it into place and shape it with an artist's paintbrush. Color it to match with a permanent black or grey marker.

For such a small simple repair this is more than sufficient. I sometimes do a more elaborate job by taking a piece of gauze bandage apart and using its individual layers to build a repair patch.
 
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