I got this handmade cabinet today with pre-rola.

[Supernatural]

Thank you very much for your help, I really appreciate it!

I will change that wood probably with MDF. I will try to find MDF with 2.5 cm thick to be stronger and I will do the baffle cut-out a little smaller than 351cm. Let’s say 345mm that leave the speaker about the same "open" as the 351mm.

Then i will put "insert" nuts M6x15mm or M6x20mm to screw the speaker and make it stable:



I am already in love with this little cabinet. I find it in a bad shape, with his lower side almost half broken and very dirty. Just yesterday I glued back the broken side and it is very stable now:





As I don’t have a serious Amp already, just a Marshall MG30DFX (that I like), i dream this old little cabinet to be my main amp in the future. I Just need a "head" and will be both ready!

 

[Mrmadd]

Another way if possible
Buy a used cab made for a 15.
I have purchased a couple MG Marshall cabs at GC for under $99 and reworked them to my liking.
Sold off the MG drivers cheap.
They look great, and I only know "whats inside" that I placed there.

You can't make a cab that cheap. The raw materials cost more.

 

[Mrmadd]

As for the MG30DFX. I like those amps. For what they are, they sound great.
Lots of true Marshall tone and all the effects you really need in one box.

Good luck with that.

 

[Supernatural]

I understand what you mean but i really want to go with that little cabinet first of all because it fits exactly where I want to place it. Second reason is that I am romantic and i want it how I find it and keep the history of it.

Thinking to get a head for it, you believe that the following head will drives that speaker well? It’s say that it is switchable for 16 ohm speaker but recommend 1x12. Mine is 16 ohm 15 inch.

https://www.thomann.de/gr/marshall_dsl1hr.htm

Thank you guys!

 

[fitz]

I understand what you mean but i really want to go with that little cabinet first of all because it fits exactly where I want to place it. Second reason is that I am romantic and i want it how I find it and keep the history of it.

Thinking to get a head for it, you believe that the following head will drives that speaker well? It’s say that it is switchable for 16 ohm speaker but recommend 1x12. Mine is 16 ohm 15 inch.

https://www.thomann.de/gr/marshall_dsl1hr.htm

Thank you guys!

Yes, the DSL1HR will make that speaker roar.
Surprising amount of power in the little 1w amp - I used to have one before I got the 20.
15" vintage greenback should be a great match.

 

[Supernatural]

As I am still waiting for parts to finish my cabinet I have some questions if you don’t mind.

May sound stupid …but:

1) there is no problem if I put the speaker upside down in the cabinet, yes?

2) I am thinking to put a female jack plug behind the cabinet, and get, or make a male to male jack cable to connect my cab to a head amp. With what type of cable should I wire my speaker till the female plug? (about 20-25cm long) And what type of cable should I buy or make for the male to male extension from cab to head?

3) What about cable thickness in both cases?

4) At the end my final question is, what is the polarity from speaker to head?

Thank you!

 

[fitz]

As I am still waiting for parts to finish my cabinet I have some questions if you don’t mind.

May sound stupid …but:

1) there is no problem if I put the speaker upside down in the cabinet, yes?

2) I am thinking to put a female jack plug behind the cabinet, and get, or make a male to male jack cable to connect my cab to a head amp. With what type of cable should I wire my speaker till the female plug? (about 20-25cm long) And what type of cable should I buy or make for the male to male extension from cab to head?

3) What about cable thickness in both cases?

4) At the end my final question is, what is the polarity from speaker to head?

Thank you!

1. Nope, orientation does not matter.
2. Speaker cable should be 2 conductor. Don't use a shielded single conductor instrument cable. You could just buy one...
3. 12AWG
4. tip to +, sleeve to -

 

[Supernatural]

1. Nope, orientation does not matter.
2. Speaker cable should be 2 conductor. Don't use a shielded single conductor instrument cable. You could just buy one...
3. 12AWG
4. tip to +, sleeve to -

Thank you!

 

[Supernatural]

Small progress, but still a progress! Just today I receive the new wood with the speaker hole.

 

[Supernatural]

Before the final paint job I decided to give it a go to test it. It sound so great! DSL1 it was a great plus for this speaker!

 

[StingRay85]

cool speaker. I have 4 of those sitting in a 1979B cabinet. it was originally paired with a Marshall Major. I don't see why it wouldn't be a guitar speaker. The smooth cone was also used on the D130(F)/E130. The ribbed cone 15" speaker is a bass speaker (D140F,E140,K140). Value in very good shape would be around 500 each. A quad was offered for 2500$ a few months ago in the US, and it appears to have been sold. But yours seems a bit too rough to get this kind of numbers. Nice job on the cab

 

[RLW59]

Small progress, but still a progress! Just today I receive the new wood with the speaker hole.

The baffle is thick and well supported since the cab is just a little bigger than the speaker.

But plywood is recommended for baffles because it's very stable and resistant to warping or cracking/splitting.

Solid wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity and is prone to warping, cracking, splitting. (I've seen thicker pieces than that develop severe warps.) Old, well-seasoned solid wood is more stable than freshly cut solid wood, but all solid wood moves with changes in humidity.

At the least you'll want to paint it, with double coats on all the cut edges. Let the paint dry very thoroughly so it won't glue the speaker to the baffle.

It's fine to start with, but you'd be better off replacing it with plywood eventually.

 

[Supernatural]

The baffle is thick and well supported since the cab is just a little bigger than the speaker.

But plywood is recommended for baffles because it's very stable and resistant to warping or cracking/splitting.

Solid wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity and is prone to warping, cracking, splitting. (I've seen thicker pieces than that develop severe warps.) Old, well-seasoned solid wood is more stable than freshly cut solid wood, but all solid wood moves with changes in humidity.

At the least you'll want to paint it, with double coats on all the cut edges. Let the paint dry very thoroughly so it won't glue the speaker to the baffle.

It's fine to start with, but you'd be better off replacing it with plywood eventually.

Thank you for the infos

The new baffle it is not solid wood. It is MDF. It is a piece of MDF door. Looks like solid wood but it’s not.

 

[RLW59]

MDF is very stable (unless it gets wet) so that should be fine.

 

[Ned74]

White glue, yellow wood glue, carpenter's glue, school glue, craft glue are all very similar. Main ingredient is PVA (poly vinyl acetate). In the US, the most common white glue is Elmer's, the most common wood glue is Titebond.

Some are waterproof after they dry, others remain water soluble after drying. All of them are slightly flexible, and for a speaker waterproof or water soluble are both fine.

Edit: avoid polyurethane glues and epoxies (which are sometimes labeled as being good for gluing wood, but aren't what "wood glue" refers to).

Paper towel (or tissue paper or coffee filter) is for reinforcing a rip where you can only glue the edges of the rip. For your tear, not necessary. Just smear a tiny bit of glue on it and press all the fibers back together. Adding some thin paper (toilet tissue, facial tissue, single-ply paper towel) wouldn't hurt but don't build it up thick because the tear is in the part of the cone that needs to flex when the cone moves.

Really, yours probably doesn't even require a repair. It won't get any worse.
-------------------------------
I've cleaned speakers for cabs that have metal grilles where the speaker is visible, using a slightly damp microfiber cloth, rubbing gently and cautiously.

But if it's going to be hidden behind a cloth grille I wouldn't try to clean it. Some of it looks like it may be bits of debris stuck to the doping on the surround -- maybe use a soft brush to dislodge them, but trying to clean the stains and splatters off it could do more harm than good.

I've been using a little electronics vacuum that has a soft bristle brush works a treat. As for glue, I have 2 types, both black glues used in electronic and speaker repair, both were cheap, both fast drying and very flexible but super strong, and do the job very very well and oh my what a sexy speaker, I want one now, wait....no I want 2

 

[Ned74]

Thank you for the infos

The new baffle it is not solid wood. It is MDF. It is a piece of MDF door. Looks like solid wood but it’s not.

Can paint the MDF baffle to seal it, definitely no swelling or moisture issues, or a simple silica gel pack in the cabinet, like said MDF is very strong left dry..... So unless you're planning on playing outside in the rain, no wucken furries matey

 

[Supernatural]

Thank you very much!

I have to say that this speaker tester with serval 16 ohms heads, from me and friends. This speaker it is outstanding!
Have fun!

 

[Blake F]

I've repaired a lot of old Celestion cones and have experimented extensively on how to do it without altering tone. The problem is that if you stiffen up parts of the cone or surround, you brighten up the speaker, often too much. Your tear is very small but it's on the surround portion of the cone that flexes the most. You need something that stays flexible, so NO GLUES THAT DRY HARD. Weldwood contact cement is almost identical to what they used back then to glue everything in those and you should use it. You will need to have a semi-strong flexible weave to glue to it that will keep the tear from expanding. In this case on the surround just use some very thin, loosely weaved, cotton fabric impregnated with Weldwood contact cement. You only need to go 1/8" larger than the tear. Make sure to use tweezers to mold the fabric to the ridge, following the hump so the flexing of the surround isn't impeded. Use enough glue to fully saturate the cloth and stick to the cone but not gloppy- this will keep the tear from expanding and not impede the flex of the surround. If you can find very thin cloth, do both sides. If not, it will probably be fine with one side.

Your tear is so small that you could probably get away with just gluing with contact cement, but there's going to be a lot of flex on a 15" cone surround like that, so adding the fabric will keep if from getting larger.