I cleaned everything with D5 and have replaced all the tubes. I tapped around a bit looking for a loose connection but could not locate any. I want to do some mods to warm up the tone but I want it to work right first.
I think I effed up my 4210 plz help
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chuckharmonjr
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Could still be an iffy solder joint...especially in the pre-amp
Which version or what year is this 4210?
Has it been biased yet? Sounds to me like it's way too cold.
No I'm still waiting on some hardware to make it easier. I don't have a lot of experience with the output side so I want to do it the easy way. Thing is though even as it is the boost channel has never sounded better. My LED started flickering and if I wiggle the input with the cord it stops. I think I have a loose connection at the input.
It was a loose tube socket on V2 causing my clean channel woes. For shits and giggles I took out the rectifier and it didn't seem to do anything. It still has the solid state fuzztone. The more I do the less I hear it but its still there especially and lower volumes My 2205 did not have that. I'm starting to think this is the wrong amp for me. I want 2203/4 sounds that I just don't think I'm going to get out of this amp. It's a great sounding amp but it's just not all the way there yet.
It has the stock g12-70. I like the Vintage 30 in it a lot though. I run a 2x12 with those so I want something like a Creamback in the comboWhew!!
What speaker do you run in that amp? The g12t-75 in mine is hitting the highway. I'm leaning toward a g12-65..
You removed the diode clipping circuit on the Boost channel? If so, you will have to attenuate the signal in there somewhere as it is probably too hot. I have my 4210 opened up again and I am trying to get it to sound a bit better as well. I keep hearing this woofy overloaded bassy tone on the Boost channel that is driving me bonkers. I thought I had this amp dialed in closer to the tighter mid crunch of my Jubilee, but that was just wishful thinking. I got spoiled playing through my Princeton/Bassman project amp. Now this 4210 just sounds harsh and lacking clarity. But on a positive note, the Clean channel sounds better than my two 2205's do on their Clean channels.
I've noticed after all new tubes and fixing that socket the clean channel is now sounding so good it's making me notice how thin the boost channel really is. I am learning this stuff as I go so I do not know how to attenuate the signal so I was going to put it back in. Instead of Clean and Boost it should be Tube and Solid State!
So was it the small black bridge rectifier that you pulled off the PCB? Can I ask you what your settings are for the Boost channel? You need to run the Boost volume 8 to 10 to get it to have the most clarity. Then you can set the gain a bit lower as well. Another trick with these amps is to run a clean boost up front. Helps to give it a better crunch definition and voicing. Or a SD-1 or Tube Screamer type pedal with the gain at 0 and volume set high works well.
It is a shame the Normal channel does not have a more traditional type tone circuit. A midrange control would work wonders for the Clean channel. Even better would have been if Marshall made the Normal channel a 2204/3 circuit then you could switch over to the Boost channel for leads.
Yes it is the small bridge rectifier. I was having a baby fit and acting like a girl. Now I'm better. I rarely run the normal channel I use a MXR Z-44 in front with everything at 2 o clock and kick it on for solos. I stay on boost and run as such
Gain 5-7
Volume 10
Treble 4
mid 3-4
bass 5-6
Master 2-3 I have tried diming the MV and using the channel volume but thats noisy. Also if I go above 7 on the boost gain it's too fizzy for my taste.
Gain 5-7
Volume 10
Treble 4
mid 3-4
bass 5-6
Master 2-3 I have tried diming the MV and using the channel volume but thats noisy. Also if I go above 7 on the boost gain it's too fizzy for my taste.
I have it opened up now to check the bias. I was having a really hard time grasping the calculations but my Dad explained it to me and directed me to some more reading and now I feel like a real dumbass. It's very simple after all.
There is a few mods that can be done to these amps. But then, I do not like to push or advertise that as these PCB's are very easily prone to heat damage and can end up being a major can of worms or worse, leave you with an amp that does not work at all. All that stuff happened to me when I first started modding and working on these inside of my 4210.
Everything is put back to normal and biased. It's sounding pretty good and I think I'm done messing except I'd like to change the MV pot so it has a more gradual sweep instead of going from nearly silent at 0 to LOUD at 3. A speaker is in order though for sure. I threw a V30 from my 2x12 in it and it sounded good but I was thinking Creamback in the 4210 together with my 2x12 would be a nice mix. The G12M-70 has to go.
These amps come alive with V30's. I have an old 1936 2X12 cab with old V30's in it. My 2205 might have been at its best sound ever into that cab.
Yesterday I ran my 4210 into my new Creamback 65 that I stuck in the 1933 1X12 ext cab. That speaker was a good fit as well. This amp circuit is not as mid voiced as most other Marshalls. But then it has a wide sweep with that 100K mid pot, that allows a heavily mid scooped tone when set low.
Yesterday I ran my 4210 into my new Creamback 65 that I stuck in the 1933 1X12 ext cab. That speaker was a good fit as well. This amp circuit is not as mid voiced as most other Marshalls. But then it has a wide sweep with that 100K mid pot, that allows a heavily mid scooped tone when set low.
The CL80 should work fine. Will probably be better as you have that open back combo to deal with.
I got my MXR Chorus in the mail today and hooked it up and it sounds great. I tried a few multi-effect units with my 2205 with unusable results but analog pedals work way better than I expected. Just need a speaker and I'm good for a while.
Another easy thing to help the Normal channel act more like a Clean channel is to stick a 12AY7 in V2. The Electro Harmonix 12AY7 valves sound awesome in this amp in V2.
And run good strong valves in V1 and V3 to help the Boost channel. A JJ ECC83S in V1 will darken the amp up a bit. Run that valve in V1 & V3 if the amp seems really bright to you.
And run good strong valves in V1 and V3 to help the Boost channel. A JJ ECC83S in V1 will darken the amp up a bit. Run that valve in V1 & V3 if the amp seems really bright to you.
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