Just Picked Up A DSL 100H And Needing Cab Suggestions

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Mrmadd

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Tried many cabs on my DSL100.

4x12 cabs best.

1960 with G75s

If you a 2x12, you will need Creambacks in there for best tone.

NOTHING SOUNDS AS GOOD AS A FULL SIZE 4X12 CAB.
 

Mrmadd

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It will also look killer

1/2 stack full size Marshall
 

What?

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It will also look killer

1/2 stack full size Marshall

Not fun to move alone though if you play at home, practice, and gig using the same cab. Done it too many times, and it's always a pain in the ass. Nothing sounds the same as a 412 though. But a smaller ported cab can be good too.
 

myklomaniac

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It really doesnt matter, when I get it I'll try both but I'm thinking closed back will give a little more balls to it. my current SS amp is open back and location in the room does play a part with the sound. Looking forward to dialing in, set it, and forget it, lol...

From my research, and please correct me if I am wrong, but the only difference between the 1936 and 1922 is that the 1922 cab dimensions are just a little smaller. Same speakers, impedance, & power rating. If I want a bigger 212, one of my neighbors is a custom cabinet maker for kitchens baths, etc. I can draw it up on a CAD and he will cut it out on his machines or find the 412 I want. For right now, I dont know what I dont know, so I need to start somewhere.

Thanks for the suggestions!
I think that is the only difference, the 1922 is slightly smaller. Same spkrs ohms and watts. I just noticed another small difference while reading this thread. I've had it now for about 2 weeks, and haven't done the "fine tooth comb" thing yet. Priorities? The 1936 front panel face (where the spkrs are attached) is slanted slightly upwards. The base of the front panel sits 1" in from the forward edge of the outer cabinet walls, and the top sits 2" in from the front outer edge of the cabinet. So, it's not much, but it partially emulates the 1960A cabinet's upwards slant. By design, I hope? Maybe not?
Both the cabs I ordered are closed back. I have a 1970s Fender Quad Reverb and a later issue ~late 1980s Fender Ultimate Chorus, both of which are open backs, and they do what they do well, but when I was deciding on finally (after 40 years) of getting myself a Marshall rig, it pretty much had to be closed back cabinets, for the same reasons you mention. More bottom end.
I'm still waiting for the 1936V to show up. They're harder to get here in Canada, and I was shocked when the vendor said "should be here by May". WTF??? However, the 1936 cab sounds pretty good by itself so far, and I'm hoping the slight contrast in spkr technology, between it and the 1936V, will blend and sound good together. Fingers crossed.
As someone else mentioned, it's easier to move a 212 than a 412, unless you're also a body builder. I could have had pretty much any 412 stack, but at my age and physical condition, 2 212s will probably work out best. I'm not likely to ever gig with any of this stuff, those days are long gone. Still, I wanted to get as close to a half stack signature sound, with 2 slightly different types of spkrs, in boxes that I can manage by myself around the house, or short distances away, if attending casual jams wiith friends. Or whatever?
I hope you find your perfect fit, and enjoy your new rig as much as I'm enjoying mine, and mine's not even all here yet!!!
Here's my "stack" so far... both head and cabinet weigh ~ 50 pounds each.
Marshall Rig Smaller Sized PicP_20240209_133948.jpg
 

Cal Nevari

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Thank you!!

I'm going to check out the 1922 on Sunday. The guy that is selling use to run a studio and is downsizing. It looks brand new in the pics and if it is what it looks like in the pics, it will be coming home on Sunday. The G12T-75's are rated at 150w, so that should handle the amp in either 100w or 50w mode at the levels I'll be playing at for sure, and it is a horizontal cab so we are all good there. Looking at the specs, it's got the same speakers as the 1936 and I have not seen any posts dogging it, but I have seen some saying the MG & MX series are not as good. Plus, I have not found any reasonable priced 1936's in my area. For what they are asking for 1936's around here, I can get a decent 412.

For the price, I have lots of options with the 1922. I can get another 212 to run in stereo, get a 412 Cab and use the speakers in this one + 2 more to make exactly what I want, or sell it and get my money back for a Marshall 412. Always nice to have options, and this will get me up and running right now to learn the amp and then I'll know what I want if this isn't it.
Sounds great! Let us know what you think of the 1922. Once you get that DSL100 hooked up to a nice cab you're going to be in hog heaven!
 

fitz

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I think that is the only difference, the 1922 is slightly smaller. Same spkrs ohms and watts. I just noticed another small difference while reading this thread. I've had it now for about 2 weeks, and haven't done the "fine tooth comb" thing yet. Priorities? The 1936 front panel face (where the spkrs are attached) is slanted slightly upwards. The base of the front panel sits 1" in from the forward edge of the outer cabinet walls, and the top sits 2" in from the front outer edge of the cabinet. So, it's not much, but it partially emulates the 1960A cabinet's upwards slant. By design, I hope? Maybe not?
Yes, the 1936 baffle is set back at the top - the 1922 baffle is vertical.
4210a.jpg
 

fitz

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I was thinking 2 212's would not suck and be more versatile
Those are my only 212's - most of my amps have a pair of 112's.
I like the size (regardless of what others might say) and I think they work great with my 4210.
They are easy to move and take up less floor space than a 1936 or 1960.
The top one is the VS212 with piping and a fake 1922 badge - speakers upgraded to G12 Vintage.
 

Webslinger

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DSL100 @ 29.1" will stick out about 1.25" to each side of the 1922 cab @ 26.6".
a.k.a. Stonehenged.

"stonehenged"? ,,,,I like that description. I too had a full-size head, on a 1922 (combo-size) cab. Sounded fine, but the "look" bothered me.
Found an empty MC212 M.I.E. 29" x 20 cab, Installed an Emmy Guvnor I had, and an Elite80 somebody pulled from a new Egnator, cause they though it wasnt a real Celly (LOL). The Elite80 took forever to break-in, but once it did it sounds great (even being a few db less). Not long afterward I found an empty 1936 for cheap, all torn-up. Fixed the tolex with auto-trim black adhesive, added casters, loaded an Emmy Wizard and Swapthang. At 4" shorter than a half stack, and about 102 db it's a managible monster. I kept both. Use one or the other depending on the venue and set list.
 

fitz

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Nice rig, and the aesthetics are fine.
Q: How do you stomp your effects pedals with the board up there? You must be a dancer, or a Ninja, too?
Thanks.
I can stomp them with my.... :naughty:

...finger.


I adjust my effects more often than I turn them on and off - like having all those choices built into the amp.
I'm not running through a set list - just dial in a tone I like, with the guitar I happen to choose, and jam for a while.
Loop cables are long enough to put the board on the floor if I want, but I usually just leave them on top of the amp.
 

Mrmadd

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You will always be disappointed you did not get a 4x12.
Those smaller Marshall cabs have NO THUMP
 

knulp

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Good Afternoon, Everyone!

First post but been here looking and dreaming of that one day when I finally get a tube amp I can join and its finally here! I know the DSL 100H is on the budget side of Marshall's line, but really looking forward to playing it and need a Cab for it and it's my first real tube amp.

Ideally, I would like to get a 212 due to space available and maybe get another one later down the road if I need it. Play mostly 70's, 80's. & 90's rock. I see that Origin 212's are on sale now and I know the 70 Eighty's are not the best, but can they get me by for now and then maybe upgrade later?

I found a 5150 412 locally and a Marshall MG412A as well. I also found some used higher end Marshall Cabs but they start around the $500 range and up. Looking for any and all suggestions. Thanks in advanced!!

ByrdmanFL
Hi and welcome;
I have a dsl100h too that I use with several cabs.
I suggest you to skip the cheap mdf Marshall ones .
Instead look for good birch used ones.
Keep in mind that this amp works much better at 8 ohm than 16.
I tried all sort of experiments to confirm this as I didn’t want to believe..because I had a 16 ohm 4x12 with g12m…
I even tried the same 16 ohm cab into the 8 ohm output and I got much less shrill and a lot more balance in the hi mids.
Also .. 8 ohm g12m are fuller and smoother than 16 ohm ones.
In the end I sold the 16 ohm speakers and got four 8 ohm ones.
Much much better.
A Marshall 1965 4x10 with g10m is even smoother.Very very light and portable.
It’s a cheap cab and you can upgrade later the speakers but the head is larger than the cab.it thumps.
I’d go for the straight 4x12 with 4 g12m in the long term.
The cab accounts for more than 50% of the tone and if speaking Marshall everyone should have one,even only at home as g12m sound good at low volume too.
I have a Marshall 1912 1x12 too which is perfect because is small and portable,rated at 150 watt and sounds good with good bass.
Cheap too.
I’m sure that there’s some 2x12 that should pair very well with the dsl (I’d love to try creambacks..g12-65 and even g12-75 )but 2x12 are heavy too and I went for 4x10 when looking for a compromise.
And found they are very very similar to the 4x12 but lighter and more portable than 2x12.
2x12 have the advantage of being almost always 8 ohm.
Whatever you do try to get a Marshall cab..
If you don’t match you’ll regret ..
Good luck
 

myklomaniac

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I
Thanks.
I can stomp them with my.... :naughty:

...finger.


I adjust my effects more often than I turn them on and off - like having all those choices built into the amp.
I'm not running through a set list - just dial in a tone I like, with the guitar I happen to choose, and jam for a while.
Loop cables are long enough to put the board on the floor if I want, but I usually just leave them on top of the amp.
I figured as much. Same here mostly, learning some stuff sounds better all by itself through the new rig. The phase shifter, wah, and space delay are just for messing around, so they're in the "stomp" location out front. They do have their places if I'm in "go ahead, emulate someone's riffs, or try to emulate them best you can" mode. I'm running a 1970-ish LP Deluxe pancake body with upgraded pups (full size Gibson HB neck, and DiMarzio SD bridge), and a 1988-ish American Standard Strat (still stock) through the new Marshall boxes. So far, so good, I can't believe the difference from my Fender combo amps.
 

6StringMoFo

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Here you go and it's not even the good B version.


Not far from New England so, it could be yours @tallcoolone ! :dude:

As a long time DSL user, I settled on a V30 loaded Cab.
 
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