NICE!!!Ripped into it tonite, no more brown sound! Thank you for the eagle eyes
Bypassed R27 with a wire
Piggybacked another 22k on R15 to get 10.8k total
R7 did measure 163v now 219v
R8 was 175v now 235v but l added a 220k right at the valve so its back to 172v
R14 was 218v is now 294v
R15 was 219v and is now 294v
All mods are:
Bypass one B+ resistor R27
.0022 uf coupler
4.7 / .68 not sure how l ended up here...over a stock 2.7 ???
I swapped the bright cap to a 4700pf
I added the depth back in, 220k with 2n2 cap
330k v1a plate
C7 to 22uf
220k across preamp
Push pull preamp pot for SAT mod clipper (10k --- 100nf --- 1meg resistor and 2) mpsa06
Headfirst 300v effects loop
And Hot Mod V2 Evo
I love how it sounds and feels, though the hot mod may be pushing it over the top even with 2 ecc81 tubes. Im not good with descriptive tone, but its definetly not brown anymore.
Ill play it for a few days and see how l like it. Of course now l have to clean up the board again...maybe...
Thanks for a great thread Johnny...seems like we are doing the same thing so hope ya dont mind me jumping into your thread. I think its becoming a super informative thread for someone wanting to mod a 2203x.
Like this one.Draining the filter caps through the PT secondary CT? That's a new one for me lol. Are you sure the CT wasn't merely tied to the caps' ground lug and then to chassis ground?
Here’s a question.
Being the boards upside down, is there any benefit to swapping some of the caps to Mallorys?
All fairy dust, eh?
Nah.No, not fairy dust. But there's not much benefit in this situation. If you were building an amp from scratch, it could make a difference if you were going to nit pick over every component. Or if you wanted to change all polypropylene caps in an amp over to polyester or something like that. You might wind up doing more damage to the PCB and you really won't hear a huge difference either way. But if you want to do it and see what happens, sure... go for it. If you do, I would go with Vishay/ERO MKT 1813 instead of Mallory. Just gotta make sure they physically fit and have the appropriate voltage ratings for each position.
Ive done it you didnt hurt the cap but will it bug you? Mine bugs me...l have 2 like that. Functionally its fine.View attachment 141338
I guess I did too much today and got sloppy. The irons shaft leaned against the cap.
Should I change this .1 cap or is it just the plastic coating?
I’m done for today.
As soon as I did that, I stopped for the night.Ive done it you didnt hurt the cap but will it bug you? Mine bug me...l have 2 like that. Functionally its fine.
Good job getting it all fixed up.
Some alcohol and a qtip will clean a surprising amount of that flux stuff around the holes. Does it protect the joints??? I dont know ...but l cleaned mine off. And was shocked at how much came off...even things that looked burnt.
Sorta like a little turret?View attachment 141343
Look what I did where R12 used to be.
That’s where the clipper diodes or transistors will live. I took the leads from a 2 watt resistor and soldered them in, but left them high enough that I can put an alligator clip on as a heat absorber for when I wanna mess around with different values there. I made lil loops so I can just sit it in and solder.
The 100k at R12 now lives on the socket where the yellow wire used to be, the ground runs under the board to the pots ground. The 10k & the .33 clipper cap lives there too,Sorta like a little turret?
Wheres r12 then? Seems smart, lm curious....
Seems like a stroke of geniusThe 100k at R12 now lives on the socket where the yellow wire used to be, the ground runs under the board to the pots ground. The 10k & the .33 clipper cap lives there too,
The mounting the of 100k and 10k at the socket is part of the Headfirst Hybrid Jose deal, but mounting the Zeners in sort of a raised “turret” is all me baby.Seems like a stroke of genius