Chris-in-LA
Well-Known Member
The wires to the plate resistors and dropping resistors?No..just the jumpers
The wires to the plate resistors and dropping resistors?No..just the jumpers
So, basically the same wires that would go underneath an eyelet board.I wire the jumper wires that connect the turrets that are tied together from the underside, everything else I connect from the top.
I never noticed that Marshall uses colors like that, and I have been inside my Marshall heads a few times. Not a bad idea but my kit only came with 20 ga white and green. I do have some 16 ga wire in other colors. Is it ok to mix them? BTW, here’s a pic of one of my previous “allergic “ builds.If you are new to building and may want other people to help you troubleshoot I strongly urge you to solder your bus wire on top of the board so you can see the connections, use 'Marshall' wire colours (yellow cathodes, green grids, blue plates) or you are on your own tracing your wiring mistakes down if you do the green one side and white the other side!
Like this:
Making sure you loop each wire that goes off the board through the hole before wrapping around the turret.
Personally I am allergic to this type of build below (no offense inteneded to whoever made it):
Although this is the ideal quality c/o Mr Joyce:
I never noticed that Marshall uses colors like that, and I have been inside my Marshall heads a few times. Not a bad idea but my kit only came with 20 ga white and green. I do have some 16 ga wire in other colors. Is it ok to mix them? BTW, here’s a pic of one of my previous “allergic “ builds.
View attachment 50229
Yeah, VibroChamp, a little less busy than some of the other blackface models. I can do neat work when I take my time.Looks quite clean and tidy for a Fender style build!! Nice even twists, wires orientated correctly.
Yeah, VibroChamp, a little less busy than some of the other blackface models. I can do neat work when I take my time.
I like it, more clean overhead than a 5e3 and has the same nasal tone of the 5f1. It’s also a bit louder. I used an 8 inch Weber alnico speaker with later breakup in mine. I can turn it up to 8 and it’s still pretty clean.How do you like your Champ? Have thought about building one.
I built a 5e3 clone and love the tone.
This is the wiring diagram I’m working from, there is a cap at the socket but it’s not 100nf. The CC resistors came with the Mojotone kit. All of the wires will be wrapped around the turrets.Your diodes are correct.
You do have the 100nF cap missing in the PI - is that intended?
Interesting choice of all CC resistors in a 2204 (will it hiss?)
How are you fitting the bus wire and off board signal wires?
Finally got some time and energy to begin populating the board. I can’t tell by the Mojotone wiring diagram but the schematic seems to show that the positive side of the diode in the bias circuit is facing the 220k 2W resistor. Does that seem right to you amp gurus?
View attachment 50353
Now that I think about it, I’ve built 3 Mojotone Fender clones and every single one of them came with a steel chassis. The chassis that they are selling for the British 800 sure looks like steel in the picture. I guess I’ll find out when it gets here.
https://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/ChassisCapPans_1/British-800-Style-50W-Chassis
I grounded everything back to the cans. And while it's still attached to the chassis, the chassis isn't solely relied upon for ground.
Would you ground any of the filter or coupling caps to an aluminum case? Just asking. I’m actually running all my grounds back to the bolts on the PT."...the chassis isn't solely relied upon for ground."
And should not be solely relied upon for ground.
But more like:
The aluminum chassis should not be used as the sole current path for the circuit.
The chassis is still grounded, just not the current path.
There should be a wire from the cap ground back to the transformer bolts.Would you ground any of the filter or coupling caps to an aluminum case? Just asking. I’m actually running all my grounds back to the bolts on the PT.