Plexi reproduction panels now in production and available.

[shakti]

The gold cooler looks good to me and the font also on the JMP types (both varieties). The black flag font (for the controls) is not right. I don't know what font they used for those, but it's not the same as on the JMP panels.

I do applaud your efforts though. Any chance of making a JTM45 Mk IV tremolo panel? I'd buy one.

 

[jcm800gridlock]

Any offerings for an early ‘73 1987 with the polarity switch?

Not sure that I wan to swap mine which is bent in a few areas but curious of my options.

 

[TAZIN]

Upon review I do see that my legend rows are too close to the centerline. I'll rework them and put them where they are on the originals. Thanks for catching that. Now I've got another pile to add to the scrap heap.

The Black Flag version will thus be delayed pending corrections.

I wouldn't scrap them rather, I'd offer them for 'what they are' in order to recoup some investment. Aside from possibly the JTM logo, everything else about the panel is incorrect.

 

[TAZIN]

Photos.
First photo, the two version JMP fonts. The one where the J drops lower is incorrect. These I'm selling cheaper than the correct ones, by 15 dollars.
Second photo, some of the current plexi batch in progress.
Third photo, painting in progress (primer back coat stage)
Fourth photo, adhesive backed panels (available upon request, otherwise they come with no adhesive.)
Fifth photo, an example of each of the five types I have in stock and ready to ship right now.

In the photo that shows the 5 plexi types the only panel that looks close is the bottom one.

 

[AndyD]

Hi Chris, one of the things I have noticed on a lot of repro BlackFlag panels is the placement of the bottom line of characters....ie ON ON INDICATOR LOUDNESS 1 LOUDNESS 2 1 2. If you zoom in on the photo above, you will see that the line of characters sit about 1/8 inch from the bottom of the panel. I hope this helps.

 

[mAx___]

Other than what you already mentioned regarding the small differences between your panels and the originals, one thing I noticed is that the numbers are off-center from the holes. It gets more noticeable once the knobs are in place but it can also be seen in the pictures you posted.

 

[Matthews Guitars]

I am at the mercy of people working in the print shop with regard to getting the holes centered up. I have rejected panels that are too far out, but I must also note that Marshall's own production panels do tend to have a fair amount of "tolerance" in them. If my errors are no larger than that seen in originals, I accept them. Since the punch pattern and the screen print pattern have to be aligned manually, it stands to reason that there will be some small misalignments.

 

[Matthews Guitars]

Got my new toy today, a serializing stamp head for putting serial numbers into panels upon request.
This is way better than having to do it with a handful of individual stamps. That's a challenge to get them all spaced right and on the same line. With this I just dial in the desired serial number, apply it to the panel and give it a good thump with a hammer.

I made this investment for the cause of an increased level of professionalism in my product offerings.

 

[Matthews Guitars]

I could wish that the font of this stamper was more authentic but this will certainly suffice.
Here's a direct comparison of the stamp in an original panel (top) vs the new stamper I have, on the bottom.

Note that the original panel shows that it was struck twice, and note that when I did this test stamp, I hit it a bit too hard,
causing fracturing of the metal. With practice I'll be able to make just the right stroke with the hammer, every time.

 

[Pasquale R.]

As many of you know, I've been making restoration quality metal panels for metal face JMP Marshalls for some time. These have sold pretty well for me and I have a lot of happy customers. And admittedly, a few who were not entirely happy because I have admittedly had a few glitches in the system along the way. But I've used those experiences to improve the process and quality control. And try not to get caught flat footed, when I have orders for a type I just ran out of. That gets embarrassing.

I've been working on and promising plexi panels for quite a while but I've had a lot of growing pains in the process.
I said I'd release them when I am ready, not before. That time is essentially here now.

Finally I got the problems solved that kept me from being able to produce them. While I'm still not 100 percent totally satisfied with the specific color of the gold backing coat I'm getting on these, it's very close to that of original mid-late 60s examples and MUCH closer to that original gold than literally anybody else has managed to deliver on any "plexi style" panel, even Marshall, since the 60s.

I solved my supply problems, I solved the gold paint problems, I solved the undercoat and primer problems, and I'm ready to rock.

I'm now working with production batches of plexi panels in six variants.

1967 Black Flag Plexi
JTM45 Mark II
1959 "early" using the Gill font, JMP no polarity switch
1959 "early" using the Gill font, polarity switch version
1959 "late" using the later font, Century Gothic, as near as I can match it, JMP version with no polarity switch
1959 "late", Century Gothic font, polarity switch version

These are precision matched to original panels with regard to all details. Legend sizes, positions, font types and sizes, kerning, all are adjusted to precision.

In the process of making these I print on transparencies at 100 percent scale, lay the transparencies over the original panels, measure the differences, and make adjustments so they're dead on within thousandths of an inch. Repeat until there's nothing left to adjust.

I'll be offering back panels soon, too. 50 and 100 watt, all relevant variants that were originally available on plexi models.

I may even offer white backs for early JTM45s, if I can get good artwork to work from.

Ciao Puoi realizzare anche i pannelli in metallo del JCM 800 4104? posso acquistarli, ne avrei bisogno il mio è rovinato. Ti lascio la mia e-mail: pasquale.renzulli@ virgilio.it

 

[Matthews Guitars]

JMP and JTM only.

Not making panels for anything newer.


I'm not opposed to making JCM800 panels but I need samples to work from. Dimensions and other data. I can't just make it up out of thin air! I do not have examples to copy from.

I guess I have to say it....don't ask for anything JCM 800 or newer if you don't have an example for me to copy from.

 

[southbound suarez]

Wow just wow!
MG ,
I must give you props and also maybe a little bumps for all your efforts.
Your research will eventually pay you back in the expertise that you have earned thru all this effort. You will definitely be one of them premier experts at recognizing all the different variants if nothing else!
Ya don't have to justify the cost or expense for what you have offered. However, the fact that you do share much of what you do and are very transparent of your production does in fact make much of the service you are providing to the community.
I applaud your positive attitude and making the best of the criticism recieved.
Keep up the good work as you continue to catalog and document the many variations of the Amplifiers produced by Jim Marshall! I believe that you will become the premier experts at recognizing and authenticating the various cosmetic revisions found on these amps. I appreciate your contribution on these forums. I am sure it is a two way street , and with the positive contribution of this community, everyone will win when it comes to our understanding of these otherwise ubiquitous historical antiquities of modern post mid century musical evolution.
Authentic guitar collecting has come to reach the status of elitism as fine arts, fine wine or other lifestyles of the rich and snooty! Amplifiers not so much!
Keep up the good work.
I appreciate those that refine the craft of recreating in the most authenticity as possible. Reproduction/forgery/replacement or otherwise! Good Job!
Keep up the good work and don't get discouraged.

 

[Matthews Guitars]

Quick update: I've completed trials of true '60s spec gold backed painted plexi panels.

These are a special run I'm making, which uses real bronze powder for the gold metallic
look paint found on the plexi panelsfrom '69 and earlier. It's NOT the same as the cheaper
gold paint used on the repro plexi panels Marshall used later.

This bronze powder gold paint is as authentic as it gets. It's the SAME THING the '60s
plexi panels were painted in, for all intents and purposes. I haven't found the UK supplier
of the original bronze powder but the stuff I did find is so close to an exact match to that
found on original panels, that if there is any difference I attribute it to the 55 year age
difference between them and my new replicas.

Being bronze powder, it will age like the originals. It can slowly oxidize or tarnish
(very slowly, through the primer and sealer coat) and start to turn green around the edges...
particularly if exposed to moisture.

I am only (at this moment) offering the bronze powder painted plexi panels in the JMP
Superlead spec, no polarity switch, font used in the plexi period (Gill font) up to mid 1969.

Next I'll be offering the bronze powder panels in 1987 specs, with or without voltage selector.
Since these were no longer made as of mid 1960, I will not be offering the Mark II version
unless there is a request for it. Mark II dates the amp to 1974 or later, long after plexi panels
were no longer being made.

Hundred watt back panels will be along soon as well. Super Lead and Super Bass versions,
three speaker hole patterns, (4, 2, and 2+2) with and without voltage selector. (Six variants
right there) plus Super Tremolo in 2 versions.

It takes time to make these, and of course, it costs money. I spend several hundred dollars
for every new batch. Much as I'd like to stack every version deep in inventory, realistically
I can't do that so I have shift around and make what's low in inventory next, but with some
demand for it.

Since the materials for the bronze paint solution are fairly expensive and it's labor intensive
to mix the paint formulation (which I have to do myself with notrocellulose lacquer) , and do
the painting, I expect to have to charge a small premium for these panels. But in exchange,
you are going to be getting a panel that's going to pass the toughest inspection for authenticity.
People will wonder where on earth you found a true NOS plexi panel....I mean it's that good.

The only significant difference is the color of the grey-green primer backing coat. I don't use
the same shade of grey-green...only because it's not available with the primer I use.
I can offer these "raw" or with pre-applied adhesive backing tape. (Scotch 467MP pressure
sensitive label adhesive, the industry standard.)

The panel on the left is one of my new ones with bronze powder paint. The one on the right is an original from '68 or '69.
Lighting is daylight, taken outdoors.

 

[wombat]

Hi Chris

What's the process for buying these? I'd love a plexi panel for a jtm45 if you have one.

 

[TommyVonVoigt]

Hi Chris, I would very much like to get some metal JMP front and rear panels. I’d like to build one. Or maybe two! Maybe I’ll do a 2203 and a 2204.

What is the best way to get in touch?

 

[Matthews Guitars]

I need to be clear about one thing: DO NOT tell me if you intend to use my panels to build a clone. This is for legal reasons.

All my panels are designed only to fit original Marshall JMP era chassis and no others. Fit to any non-Marshall chassis is never guaranteed. I do not maintain any data on other such chassis to determine if they might fit or not.

I make them for restoration of original Marshalls ONLY. Certain panels, particularly the rear panels, are specifically marked the same as the originals, making them legally suitable only for restorations. Putting them on a clone might legally be considered to be forgery, and I won't accept any such liability that ensues from that.

If you want to put my rear panels on a clone, do not tell me it's going on a clone. If you do I am obligated NOT to sell it to you.

Front panels are OK. They don't actually say Marshall anywhere on them. Those can go on a clone.

I've tried a few times to do customized panels and it has been a debacle every time. So I am not attempting to make customized panels. The additional costs and effort involved make it impractical. Only if the new version is one that will sell in decent quantities is it worth doing.

 

[wombat]

I am aware that you are making these panels for restoration purposes.

I was under the impression from your OP in this thread that you make (or are planning to make) JTM45 Mark II plexi panels?

Going back to my original question, how would I go about buying one? The reason I ask is because I've only seen the metal panels listed on your ebay store.

 

[Matthews Guitars]

I'll be adding more to my ebay store shortly.

Yes, I have JTM45 Mark II plexi panels. I recently got the batch completed.

 

[playloud]

The attention to detail on these is really admirable.

I need to be clear about one thing: DO NOT tell me if you intend to use my panels to build a clone. This is for legal reasons.

I hope I speak on behalf of all of us when I say... Why would we use these to build a clone? We're talking amps here, not pedals!

 

[Matthews Guitars]

It's not for me to say whether or not, or why, someone would build a clone of any Marshall amp. I can just say, if you buy a rear panel from me, don't TELL me it's for a clone build. Keep that to yourself. It's just to avoid being seen as providing parts for an illegal forgery.


As for the attention to detail, I HAVE to deliver the best I can. While for most types I believe I have no competition worldwide, for some types, that does not apply. To earn the business, I have to make a superior product. If you're less demanding, there's always Mojotone. Their quality is decent, but they don't make "restoration grade" panels. They ARE focused on builds that pay homage to Marshalls without being straight clones. Their market segment is different from where I'm aiming.

My goal is to make panels that can not be distinguished from pristine originals when installed. They will satisfy the discriminating eye of the most expert Marshall enthusiasts, collectors, appraisers, and historians. If I'm not at that point, it's not for lack of trying, and any information I gather that lets me get even closer to that goal IS applied to production.

I will admit that sometimes my follow-through in the sales and delivery phase needs work. In the past I've delayed some shipments in order to make the parts more correct. I only ship my best, not my "Seconds". Or that's the goal.