Power attenuator for Plexy 1969 Super Lead

[Ducciozep]

Hello. I have a 1969 Marshall Plexy Super Lead and a 1969 Marshall Super tremolo. I'm looking for a good volume attenuator/power soak ? I have the Bugera power soak (for max 100W) but it became very hot within 10m minute....and go out of work.....
I usually use the plexy at volume 8 to get the natural gain. So I need a good machine!
I get info for Weber but seems that not work with the head at volume over 5....
Thanks for your help.

 

[Shermanator]

In my opinion the Fryette Power Station is what ye seek.

 

[Ducciozep]

Thanks. But I need only to attenuate volume, no recording, midi, or other function.

 

[AndyD]

The good old Marshall power brake works for me! Like any attenuator, beyond a certain point, the more you attenuate, the more you loose tone wise.

 

[boola1]

I think the Fryette is also a re-amp, it contains it's own poweramp.

I like the Powerbrake too, used it for years. Nowadays I use Aracom. It's expensive but does sound better than the Powerbrake unless you're trying to achieve 'bedroom' volumes.

For high levels of attenuation, there's not much to choose between the Aracom and Powerbrake IMHO.

 

[ApathyForum]

I also have a Power Brake and it works well. No issues.

 

[Spanngitter]

Stay away from the Harley Benton / Behringer Power Soaks, they will not stand a 100W at full blast...even a 50W will bring them on their limit.
Depending on where you live try to get your hands on either a Weber Mass, a TAD Silencer or (my favorite) a RedStuff Varisucker from my buddy Stefan Hüther
For Studio use there is no way around an UA Ox Box, that's probably one of the best solutions, but pricy...

Aunt Edit: change that y into on i on the Plexi

 

[Ducciozep]

Stay away from the Harley Benton / Behringer Power Soaks, they will not stand a 100W at full blast...even a 50W will bring them on their limit.
Depending on where you live try to get your hands on either a Weber Mass, a TAD Silencer or (my favorite) a RedStuff Varisucker from my buddy Stefan Hüther
For Studio use there is no way around an UA Ox Box, that's probably one of the best solutions, but pricy...

Aunt Edit: change that y into on i on the Plexi

Thanks. You use the Varisucker with Marshall 100 Super Lead?

 

[ljs]

Stay away from the Harley Benton / Behringer Power Soaks, they will not stand a 100W at full blast...even a 50W will bring them on their limit.
Depending on where you live try to get your hands on either a Weber Mass, a TAD Silencer or (my favorite) a RedStuff Varisucker from my buddy Stefan Hüther
For Studio use there is no way around an UA Ox Box, that's probably one of the best solutions, but pricy...

Aunt Edit: change that y into on i on the Plexi

Hi - my 2 cents:
- I really didn’t like the UA Ox for attenuation only. Rest is robust (software part)
- I use a torpedo reload just for atténuation purposes. It’s effectively a reamp but works great
- there are a lot of options out there at v different price points (see the tone king iron man II for example vs Weber). I have yet to get my head around all the different units

 

[Guitar-Rocker]

Why don't you build a JH attenuator from here on the forum? They seem to be the very best.

 

[JohnH]

Why don't you build a JH attenuator from here on the forum? They seem to be the very best.

No arguments from me! But I enjoy helping so swing by the workbench attenuator thread if you'd like to discuss the possibilities.

 

[junk notes]

Hello. I have a 1969 Marshall Plexy Super Lead and a 1969 Marshall Super tremolo. I'm looking for a good volume attenuator/power soak ? I have the Bugera power soak (for max 100W) but it became very hot within 10m minute....and go out of work.....
I usually use the plexy at volume 8 to get the natural gain. So I need a good machine!
I get info for Weber but seems that not work with the head at volume over 5....
Thanks for your help.

Thanks. But I need only to attenuate volume, no recording, midi, or other function.

The good old Marshall power brake works for me! Like any attenuator, beyond a certain point, the more you attenuate, the more you loose tone wise.

Good answer for OP's scenario.
I did the one wire mod that helped the overall tone.

 

[FutureProf88]

I have experience with the Rivera Rockcrusher, the THD Hotplate, and the Tone King Ironman 100. I'd recommend any of them. My personal favorite is the Tone King, but it is also the most expensive. Remember that you're hooking the OT up to this thing, and my advice would be don't skimp out on a load box for a vintage amp - especially one that is somewhat unique like a super trem. Spend the money and get the Iron Man...

 

[Benny]

Hello. I have a 1969 Marshall Plexy Super Lead and a 1969 Marshall Super tremolo. I'm looking for a good volume attenuator/power soak ? I have the Bugera power soak (for max 100W) but it became very hot within 10m minute....and go out of work.....
I usually use the plexy at volume 8 to get the natural gain. So I need a good machine!
I get info for Weber but seems that not work with the head at volume over 5....
Thanks for your help.

I like this one

 

[yafal]

Hello. I have a 1969 Marshall Plexy Super Lead and a 1969 Marshall Super tremolo. I'm looking for a good volume attenuator/power soak ? I have the Bugera power soak (for max 100W) but it became very hot within 10m minute....and go out of work.....
I usually use the plexy at volume 8 to get the natural gain. So I need a good machine!
I get info for Weber but seems that not work with the head at volume over 5....
Thanks for your help.

Marshall Power Brake. Is perfect.

 

[BLG]

Hello. I have a 1969 Marshall Plexy Super Lead and a 1969 Marshall Super tremolo. I'm looking for a good volume attenuator/power soak ? I have the Bugera power soak (for max 100W) but it became very hot within 10m minute....and go out of work.....
I usually use the plexy at volume 8 to get the natural gain. So I need a good machine!
I get info for Weber but seems that not work with the head at volume over 5....
Thanks for your help.

I just bought a Weber Mass 200W and realized that I don't need one for my DSL40C since most of the crunch comes from the pre-amp section. It's a great unit and I'll sell you mine for $250 if you're interested. (Avoid the tax and the 3-week wait for them to build you one). Plenty of headroom for you.

 

[obx351]

I use an Aracom for my Park75 and my '68 and '73 JMP 50. The Aracom was the only attenuator I found that worked well with my '73. It's pricy but I haven't found a better attenuator. It has some great features like multiple different OHMs in and multiple OHMs out so you can mix and match your speakers, for example your JMP might be 16 OHMs out but you have an 8 OHM cab, the Aracom will safely accommodate this. You can see it in my avatar.

 

[Benny]

I like this one

Supposed to be pictures of an Aracom 150 here ...

 

[guitarzan2525]

Why don't you build a JH attenuator from here on the forum? They seem to be the very best.

Tell me more about this JH attenuator. Does it have an impedance selector (4-8-16Ohm)? Can it be used for different wattage amps?

 

[JohnH]

Tell me more about this JH attenuator. Does it have an impedance selector (4-8-16Ohm)? Can it be used for different wattage amps?

I'm JH, so I can tell you about our attenuator:

Its a project to build yourself, which needs the ability to read a simple schematic and do basic drilling and soldering. Here is the thread:

Simple Attenuators - Design And Testing | MarshallForum.com

Its 90 pages long, mainly due to all the build reports (all have been a success) and development and testing. But everything you need is in post 1 on page 1, which I keep updated.

The current base design is called M2, and you can build it either for 8 or for 16 ohm amp outputs, and each can run into various speaker ohms. There are also versions that can deal with different input ohms. I size the parts to deal with a fully driven 50W amp, but its all scalable if you need larger or smaller.

It is a properly reactive attenuator of a simple but unique design and will maintain the tone and the dynamic feel of your amp throughout the range with no change down to very low volumes.

The cost of parts for the M2 is of the order of $100 depending where you buy them from. If its of interest, I'm happy to discuss on the thread, its a design that can be adapted to different needs.