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Not sure what you're saying here? I think with the wood I'm going to use I can cut it to follow the grain, I did some tests and it doesn't split or chip very easily so once it's glued in it should be solid. If I could find my xacto saws it would probably be done already, but I can't seem to locate them or my glue. I had some titebond but I let my dad use it when he ran out and I never got it back because he passed not long after and I wasn't thinking about anything like that. I'll get some more, no biggie. I want to make the plug tight so I have to tap it in when I glue it. I know I've got this. Thanks, brother, you're always a big help. I know you know your wood, I've seen your work.
Just suggesting the end grain on the short sides of the rectangle.
This exactly.
I didn't comment about this because I already knew that. I was most concerned with whether or not I needed to align with the grain and also wanted confirmation that the wood type didn't matter as long as it was solid. You haven't steered anyone wrong yet from what I've seen so no, you are never annoying, far from it.
Well...that goes without saying, duh.Either way, don't forget the colonoscopy attachment option.
The hole is the template said the proctologist.
Just a suggestion , before you start removing wood check out www.throbak.com and see if there pickups would fit ? I know they are pricey but it could save you some time ?Ok, I have this 2014 anniversary Melody Maker that came with some specially designed P90s that are very shallow.
Someone replaced the bridge pickup with a noiseless Kent Armstrong neck pickup and it's got to go. So... in order to put a regular P90 in it I have to deepen this route. It came with a metal plate in the bottom of the route and the pickups mount to the plate with machine screws. I think the easiest way to handle this without a router is to use my dremel to deepen the route and just to do away with the metal plate and wood mount the pickup.
But, there's a problem. In order to do that I have to fill this slot that is cut out under the plate to allow the machine screws to extend thru the metal plate. I figure the easiest thing to do since I don't have a router to get it square and flat is shape a piece of wood to fill the slot and glue it in there good before I get in there with my dremel.
Now, the question is... Do you think it matters what kind of wood I use and which way the grain goes?
The problem is common with all regular P90s, it's the pole screws sticking out thru the bottom of the baseplate, they all have them including the one I just bought because I had a brain fart when I ordered it. The noiseless ones don't have the longer screws that stick thru, at least the one that's in here doesn't, I'm sure that's probably why they used it.
Darn, they are complex because of there design . Best wishes in getting this satisfactory .The problem is common with all regular P90s, it's the pole screws sticking out thru the bottom of the baseplate, they all have them including the one I just bought because I had a brain fart when I ordered it. The noiseless ones don't have the longer screws that stick thru, at least the one that's in here doesn't, I'm sure that's probably why they used it.
I've decided to just go ahead and route it out deeper and plug the hole, it's the only way I can use the SD Vintage p90 that I want to use. It's a very tall P90, its got spacers that make it that tall so I took them out, but then I had the same problem as with others that the screws extend thru the base plate, plus the cover doesn't fit over the lip on the sides of the base plate so I would have to modify the cover, too. So now I've put it back the way it was and I'm going to use it.
