Recommendations for good tolex glue?

[BlueX]

Any recommendations, or comments, on tolex glue that is good, and easy to use for beginners?

I checked around on Internet. Modulus Amplification has a video on these three types:

• PVA glue (wood glue, or runnier tile sealant)
• Solvent-based contact adhesive
• Water-based/solvent-free (or latex-based) contact adhesive, recommended by Modulus Amplification

 

[fitz]

I have used both solvent based and water based DAP Weldwood contact cement.

Given a choice, I prefer the solvent based.
Quicker ready time, and better adhesion (IMO).
They both stick to themselves great, but I think the solvent based sticks to the wood better.
Both are adequately effective, and my opinion may be more based on my lack of patience than actual functionality.

I also used the Mojotone Tru Glue on my last project re-tolexing the 3210.

Very similar characteristics to the water based DAP product.

Most important advice I can give - get a good sharp razor knife.
Exacto type with a good handle (not those pencil things), or a nice utility knife with some fresh blades.
Don't rush - when the glue is ready, you'll have plenty of time to finish.

 

[Red Solo Cup]

Titebond Liquid Hide Glue - StewMac

Hide glue in convenient ready-to-use liquid form.

www.stewmac.com

 

[Max Gahne]

I use Weldwood solvent based.

 

[Matthews Guitars]

WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T USE SPRAY-ON CONTACT ADHESIVE. IT'S ABSOLUTE TRASH.

OK, now that I got my caps lock turned off...I repeat what I just said. It really IS that bad.

I use contact cement, and I spray it using my spray rig. I have one cheap but decent spray gun I reserve only for non-paint substances such as contact cement.

I use quality industrial contact cement, that I get from the local cabinet supply shop. I buy it by the gallon, and a gallon lasts a couple of years.

 

[fitz]

2nd tidbit of advice.
Disposable foam brush.

Works fine, bin it when your done.

 

[BygoneTones]

I use this contact adhesive:

High Temp Brushable | Wayside

DescriptionHTA is a HIGH TEMP polychloroprene adhesive in flammable solvents. The combination of fast drying, long tack life and excellent hot strength make it an ideal choice for automotive trim bonding.Application HTA forms strong, permanent contact bonds with excellent heat resistance...

www.waysideadhesives.com

It brushes on nice and thin, and sets very strong.

Open to other suggestions though. The main problem I have when tolexing is the corner seams. To get a nice seam you need to cut through two layers. You always have to lift a bit of the bottom layer off where the glue has already set. Whatever glue you use, and the dried glue tends to lift off with the tolex in that small area. If you brush a bit more glue on, it tends to lump. At the Marshall factory they use a heat based glue, which gets around this problem (just heat it and the glue is soft again).

The spray on glues tend to come out like cobwebs. The white water based tolexing glue was a disaster when I tried it. Just dripped everywhere and wouldn't set as a thin layer, just blobs - a real mess.

 

[Matthews Guitars]

Even better pro tip when using contact cement: Use a disposable mini size paint roller. The last job I did, I did with that. And it was even easier and quicker than using my spray rig. That little short nap 3" roller was just perfect. And no cleanup. Just toss it in the trash when you're done.

 

[BlueX]

Thanks all for good input!

I will probably try some different types/brands, before I start tolexing the cab itself. Guess solvent-based has qualities, even though it smells.

Europe has restrictions on import of chemicals, so US products are not always available here. Need to check around.

 

[Moony]

I've used the spray adhesive from Adam Hall a lot - the guys who also build the Palmer amps and cabs - never had any problem with it and it's really easy to use.
I'm not sure if they changed the formula since the can has got a new look. If it's the same as before I'd recommend it.
YMMV.

 

[william vogel]

I use Mojotone glue with a roller and the roller is by far the best way with this style glue. At least two coats on the tolex and the cabinet needs to dry to a nice shine when you’ve gotten enough glue on it. I use two razor knives. One for the corners to keep it sharp and one for all the cleanup cuts.

 

[Kinkless Tetrode]

The 3M spray can stuff from your local hardware store does not work very well. If you want a spray on from a can that works, get automotive carpet adhesive from an auto parts store. Or just follow the sage advice here and use a good brush on or roll on contact adhesive.

 

[BlueX]

Thanks again all of you for your input, appreciated!

Made a test piece of some scrap ply, where I routed 3/4" radius, including four corners. Want to test both different glues and procedure before attacking the cab.

As I thought, not easy to get glue from abroad. Wayside doesn't sell to Sweden, Mojotone charges almost $ 70 for the shipping alone, Weldwood not sold here (maybe through A**zon, but I prefer not to use them).

Went to the local Bauhaus store (European "Home Depot") and bought Casco products (big on adhesives, at least where I live). I will try out these standard glues, before checking out any specialized products. Price differences not too big, though. Got some brushes and roller pads also, so now I'm ready to experiment.
- Casco S9 Super (solvent-based), 0,3 l (10 fl oz), €/$ 12-13
- Casco Contact (water-based), 1 l (34 fl oz), €/$ 30-31

 

[fitz]

Made a test piece of some scrap ply, where I routed 3/4" radius, including four corners. Want to test both different glues and procedure before attacking the cab.

Suggestion:
make a 3D test corner like on your cab so you can practice the overlap cut, frame wrap & trim cuts back the face frame from the corner.

I also experimented with the string piping groove cuts when I did the little G10 cabs.

 

[BlueX]

Suggestion:
make a 3D test corner like on your cab so you can practice the overlap cut, frame wrap & trim cuts back the face frame from the corner.

Thanks, that's a good idea! I might make such a test piece also.

My thinking was that the trim strip groove is so close to the corner, that I might be able to simulate with the piece I made. But, I have enough scrap ply to make more test objects.

 

[abkeller1]

I need to re tolex my JCM 900 SL-X. However I don't think I have the talent to do this myself. Where can I get it done at? I can't find anyone I live in Phoenix.

 

[BlueX]

I need to re tolex my JCM 900 SL-X. However I don't think I have the talent to do this myself. Where can I get it done at? I can't find anyone I live in Phoenix.

Saw your post. I live outside US and cannot help you.

Maybe you have a better chance to get answers with a new thread, with a well explaining title.

 

[speyfly]

Hey, I know this thread is a little dated and really great advice given.

Is there any up-to-date info and ideas for a water based contact cement since this thread was in 2022.

Thx,

 

[BlueX]

Hey, I know this tread is a little dated and really great advice given.

Is there any up-to-date info and ideas for a water based contact cement since this thread was in 2022.

Thx,

If you're in the US I'm not of much help. Seems like there are different brands over there.

 

[fitz]

Hey, I know this tread is a little dated and really great advice given.

Is there any up-to-date info and ideas for a water based contact cement since this thread was in 2022.

Thx,

DAP Weldwood is still my go-to.
If you're "stuck" on water based, I think theirs is better than the Mojotone stuff, and less expensive.
But the regular red label smelly stuff works the best.