No, actually i like the distortion on the amp and having the distortion comming froma pedal does the same to the reverb tail. I just posted toget some feedback from other user . I need to know if its normal before getting it back to the store. Here is a video i made, listen carefully its not a loud clipping , its at the very end of each reverb. My setting is crunch gain 10 volume 4 treble 0 mid 7 bass 2 presence 10 reso 1.5 reverb 10. If i crank the volume it seams to be less noticeble
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The Official Marshall DSL40c Information Thread
- Thread starter Micky
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Welcome to the forum
I only have my reverb on 5 try that and see if it’s still doing it.
Whenever I have turned the reverb up higher it mushes the tone to a point that I don’t like.
I believe your amp is fine, but if reverb is a must have for what you play, I would get a pedal.. (Marshall’s are not known for their reverb)
Cheers
Mitch
RustInPeace117
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Hey all,
Long time listener, first time caller.
I have a Hammond 1650H rated at 40W with a 6.6k primary, wondering if I can drop this in as a replacement for the 40C? I tried looking up specs for other replacements but came up short on info. I also have a Hammond 5H I'm going to install regardless. Also while I'm in there, I was thinking of doing the Headfirst amplification mods to the 40C. He has them listed out for the 100H, but the overall circuit and PCB on the 40C are identical to the 100H as far as I can tell? Can anyone verify that? I've already changed C19 to 100pF and installed a Eminence Swamp Thang speaker, but still looking to tighten things up with the bass response. These mods are designed to reduce the bass, cut higher frequencies/harmonics at a later gain stage, and lower the overall amount of gain. Generally pushes the amp towards more of a modded JCM800 territory.
Headfirst mods and how-to can be found on their website, which I cant post yet due to rules. Also, his Youtube page is super informative.
Just looking for clarification on the OT mostly.
Thanks!
Long time listener, first time caller.
I have a Hammond 1650H rated at 40W with a 6.6k primary, wondering if I can drop this in as a replacement for the 40C? I tried looking up specs for other replacements but came up short on info. I also have a Hammond 5H I'm going to install regardless. Also while I'm in there, I was thinking of doing the Headfirst amplification mods to the 40C. He has them listed out for the 100H, but the overall circuit and PCB on the 40C are identical to the 100H as far as I can tell? Can anyone verify that? I've already changed C19 to 100pF and installed a Eminence Swamp Thang speaker, but still looking to tighten things up with the bass response. These mods are designed to reduce the bass, cut higher frequencies/harmonics at a later gain stage, and lower the overall amount of gain. Generally pushes the amp towards more of a modded JCM800 territory.
Headfirst mods and how-to can be found on their website, which I cant post yet due to rules. Also, his Youtube page is super informative.
Just looking for clarification on the OT mostly.
Thanks!
Welcome to the forum
I have no answers for you.
Be patient others will be along with their wisdom.
Cheers
Mitch
I think I measured the OT at 4.0K after I took mine out but I could be wrong. To be sure, disconnect it, feed it with a signal and measure the output and calculate the resistance. I forget what the formula is, but just Google it and you can find it. I replaced mine with a ClassicTone, but apparently they went belly-up. Glad I got all I needed from them before that happened.
The 5H choke should tighten up the bass a lot, the Swamp Thang is an excellent choice to do that as well BTW. I have a 4X12 cab filled with them, as well as another cab full of Texas Heat's. They really are efficient, effectively doubling the output over the original speaker (Seventy 80).
There are a few slight differences between the 40W & 100W versions so be very careful. I would add the choke and then check to see how much of a difference it makes first. You already have most of the components you need to fix flubby bass...
The 5H choke should tighten up the bass a lot, the Swamp Thang is an excellent choice to do that as well BTW. I have a 4X12 cab filled with them, as well as another cab full of Texas Heat's. They really are efficient, effectively doubling the output over the original speaker (Seventy 80).
There are a few slight differences between the 40W & 100W versions so be very careful. I would add the choke and then check to see how much of a difference it makes first. You already have most of the components you need to fix flubby bass...
I just looked at the DSL100 mods on the Headfirst page, and I have to say, I am not impressed. The very first photo had a resistor soldered onto the top of the board, and one leg soldered onto the board was all goobered up and looked cold. I said OK, it is only one photo, so I opened up the next photo. Again, unimpressed. To me work like that is unacceptable. I can understand when shooting in the dark and trying mods willy-nilly you might end up with something like that, but at least clean up the solder joints before you publish photos on the Internet.
I say this with all due respect.
What anyone chooses to do with their equipment is up to them. I just hope everyone stays safe and can make things reliable.
I say this with all due respect.
What anyone chooses to do with their equipment is up to them. I just hope everyone stays safe and can make things reliable.
RustInPeace117
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Yeah I noticed the quality of his soldering work was not that great overall. However, I found the approach to the mods with the aim at reducing the low end and overall gain to be desirable.
I think that, with a 6.6k compared to a 4.0k (If your memory is correct), it would just be a slight power output drop as the R increases in that formula. Actually, with a choke, it might even stay the same. Using a choke over a resistor usually adds 5-6 volts, and that added voltage to the plates combined with slightly higher resistance might not see a difference really.
I'm going to start with the choke and work from there.
Thanks!
I think that, with a 6.6k compared to a 4.0k (If your memory is correct), it would just be a slight power output drop as the R increases in that formula. Actually, with a choke, it might even stay the same. Using a choke over a resistor usually adds 5-6 volts, and that added voltage to the plates combined with slightly higher resistance might not see a difference really.
I'm going to start with the choke and work from there.
Thanks!
jamesband4
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Hi all! New here, but was wondering if anyone knows what relay the 40C uses. Been having issues with the channel switching disabled w/ no footswitch plugged in, as well as this weird problem with the clean channel cutting into overdrive seemingly randomly when playing (already had new tubes in it, verified fx loop, tried unplugging it multiple times to reset the contact). Going to go ahead and replace the footswitch jack, front button and associated relays (I believe RL1 and RL2). Was able to find the jack/button on Studio Sound Electronics website, but Idk if the 5V relays they carry are a standard and can be used in the DSL40C or if it uses a special type of relay. For those who know/are in the middle of working on their amps, please let me know!
I posted this over in another thread to suggest something to a newbie who was considering a head and I believe that this has been covered in the past somewhere in these thousands of replies, Sorry in advance if I violated something, but I think it may have belonged here.
I recently ordered a head cabinet for the DSL40C from Stagecraft and made by Mission Industries. This cab is excellent in materials and workmanship. I purchased the 40C in late 2012 and lifted a leg on the C19 cap sometime later. It was better than it was with the 470pf cap, but was sort of a limited difference switching from the green to the red channel. So, while I had the chassis removed I replaced the C19 with a 100pf mica cap and it is just perfect now. This spec seems to be the most suggested value for this cap replacement and I am glad I followed the advice. I may replace the C4 100pf cap with a 50pf shortly. I understand it can warm up the green channel a little. I have been lugging that beast around and got sick of the weight and was using cabs most of the time anyway. I am driving through the 8 ohm jacks two stacked Peavey 112 cabs with Austin Speaker Works KTS-60 (55hz) and KTS-70 (70hz) speakers. Classic Rock or Blues is amazing.
I did hook up my Mojotone Cab with a Guytron Big Tone 55 (8 ohm) and a Marshall cab with a Scumnico PVC and further tonal bliss. This C19 cap change really made it more useable and still got all the JCM800 like distortion and grit red Lead 1 or 2.
I included a couple pics for your viewing pleasure. I have written Mission Industries regarding the last "L" in the Marshall script logo and advised them the pre-drill template was skewed when they prepared the plywood face behind the drill cloth. I am going to try to adjust it. I ordered a new Marshall 9 inch logo from Amplified parts for this installation.
Regards,
Bob
I recently ordered a head cabinet for the DSL40C from Stagecraft and made by Mission Industries. This cab is excellent in materials and workmanship. I purchased the 40C in late 2012 and lifted a leg on the C19 cap sometime later. It was better than it was with the 470pf cap, but was sort of a limited difference switching from the green to the red channel. So, while I had the chassis removed I replaced the C19 with a 100pf mica cap and it is just perfect now. This spec seems to be the most suggested value for this cap replacement and I am glad I followed the advice. I may replace the C4 100pf cap with a 50pf shortly. I understand it can warm up the green channel a little. I have been lugging that beast around and got sick of the weight and was using cabs most of the time anyway. I am driving through the 8 ohm jacks two stacked Peavey 112 cabs with Austin Speaker Works KTS-60 (55hz) and KTS-70 (70hz) speakers. Classic Rock or Blues is amazing.
I did hook up my Mojotone Cab with a Guytron Big Tone 55 (8 ohm) and a Marshall cab with a Scumnico PVC and further tonal bliss. This C19 cap change really made it more useable and still got all the JCM800 like distortion and grit red Lead 1 or 2.
I included a couple pics for your viewing pleasure. I have written Mission Industries regarding the last "L" in the Marshall script logo and advised them the pre-drill template was skewed when they prepared the plywood face behind the drill cloth. I am going to try to adjust it. I ordered a new Marshall 9 inch logo from Amplified parts for this installation.
Regards,
Bob
Leonard Neemoil
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Why not just re use the existing logo once you drill another hole in the correct place?
Bownse
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Have you already seen that Steve made a new video with the DSL40CR?
Saw this a few days ago.
His sounds taylored .
DSL40 C phone recording.
Last edited:
Bownse
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A lot of it can be in the "sound engineering" (micing, etc.) and defintely crippled by how the phone mic clips (or doesn't) different volumes and freqs.
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I was thinking the exact same thing,Saw this a few days ago.
Moony
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I posted the clip just for information.
You can also expect that Marshall keeps the DSL40CR for a while in their range - otherwise they probably wouldn't have Steve made this new video.
And imho that's the more interesting point.
You can also expect that Marshall keeps the DSL40CR for a while in their range - otherwise they probably wouldn't have Steve made this new video.
And imho that's the more interesting point.
Lead ultra 2 gain 3 mxr micro chorus DD3 in the loop of one my Dsl40c’s .
One of my favorite threads,, also what brought me here to the forum.
Mitch
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