The Official Marshall DSL40c Information Thread

[G the wildman]

This is from my amp tech, he is highly praised in south east MI so take it as is I havent played loud yet and I did put a new speaker so I cant really comment on the bias is set at 30 hmm

The bias is at a point that runs the output tubes hard enough to get rid of crossover distortion and not any more than necessary . After 30+ years of tuning amps, this is what I have found to be best for all applications. Longest tube life, best sound, safest operation, least noise

Just reset my bias to 36 36 it was out at 29 32. Had a rasp on green crunch. Now cured

 

[G the wildman]

Hi guys,

Any opinions on comparison between Orange OR15 v DSL 40c

Is it worth owning both?

 

[aryasridhar]

Hi guys,

Any opinions on comparison between Orange OR15 v DSL 40c

Is it worth owning both?

I have a DSL100H and had the OR15, different beasts, I can however get the same tones off my DSL that I used to from my OR15, not the other way around though, hence sold it.

 

[G the wildman]

I have a DSL100H and had the OR15, different beasts, I can however get the same tones off my DSL that I used to from my OR15, not the other way around though, hence sold it.

Thank you!

Were you getting those tones on green or red. And did you need pedals?

 

[aryasridhar]

Thank you!

Were you getting those tones on green or red. And did you need pedals?

Mostly from th red channel lead 1 position without any pedals, Orange was a dark sounding amp, if I wanted that dark had to add in a boost which I built to thicken up the tones and that did the trick. Never needed anything more than a boost though.

 

[ken361]

Just reset my bias to 36 36 it was out at 29 32. Had a rasp on green crunch. Now cured

Haven't got to try it loud yet, should be warmer set low from what i gathered but will see. Higher causes raspy, had a Jet city and was duller with the bias colder and a little too raspy and thinner set high. I had a Engl with just a adjustment knob with bias pots so I could fine tune with the knob With it back it lost some dynamics and all the way it was clearer but a little brighter and thinner sounding so I just lowered it some.

Quoteon't screw with the bias - it is set correctly at 30 --- Marshall runs it too high - as do most other manufacturers --- They do not even know why they do it.

 

[ken361]

I though the crunch sounded better at 36 opposed to 34 when it drifted down

 

[solarburn]

Haven't got to try it loud yet, should be warmer set low from what i gathered but will see. Higher causes raspy, had a Jet city and was duller with the bias colder and a little too raspy and thinner set high. I had a Engl with just a adjustment knob with bias pots so I could fine tune with the knob With it back it lost some dynamics and all the way it was clearer but a little brighter and thinner sounding so I just lowered it some.

Quoteon't screw with the bias - it is set correctly at 30 --- Marshall runs it too high - as do most other manufacturers --- They do not even know why they do it.

Whoa 30mv is way too cold. Gave me a chill reading that.LOL

 

[ken361]

I k

Whoa 30mv is way too cold. Gave me a chill reading that.LOL

I know it seems strange having it set low

 

[solarburn]

34mv was as low as I could before too many cons came up.

36mv works very well on mine. Experimenting finds the sweet spot but try as a Player not to be too anal. Gets in the way of playing. This is from a guy that has been anal tone wise. Just a generall FYI for those like me he he.

 

[solarburn]

Hi guys,

Any opinions on comparison between Orange OR15 v DSL 40c

Is it worth owning both?

I've had the OR15 longer than my DSL40 although I already had a DSL50. The OR15 is a cross between an Orange and a Marshall. Best of the 2.

Since I've had the DSL40 the OR15 has been sitting. I still love it but the 40 smokes it for more variations of Marshall goodness. For me the OR15 is a one trick poney. Love it yeah. Sounds great? Yes.

Maybe you can try one out and see for yourself. I have no problem admitting I can go more places sonically with my DSL. It ain't even fair comparing. I love both Orange and Marshall. My 2 fav amp companies because some of their amps do it for me. Above so many others.

 

[dave999z]

Hey all, haven't checked in with this thread for quite awhile. Just a little factoid I thought I'd share… If you plug a one-button Marshall footswitch (or the $15 knockoff that is actually the same exact thing without the silkscreening), the amp's Reverb function will be permanently off (yay!), and the single button will control the amp channel.

Just FYI:
tip + sleeve disconnected = amp on red channel
tip + sleeve connected = amp on green channel
sleeve + ring disconnected = reverb on
sleeve + ring connected = reverb off

I'm going to mod this one button footswitch I got to add red and green LEDs that show you which channel you're on (will require a battery or 9V supply). Also going to add a toggle and LED on the back to turn the reverb on and off. Will probably also put a toggle on the back to change polarity for the amp channel, in case you use it with a different amp that isn't wired the same. Just a fun project (and I do think red/green LEDs will be useful).

 

[Len]

Hey all, haven't checked in with this thread for quite awhile. Just a little factoid I thought I'd share… If you plug a one-button Marshall footswitch (or the $15 knockoff that is actually the same exact thing without the silkscreening), the amp's Reverb function will be permanently off (yay!), and the single button will control the amp channel.

Just FYI:
tip + sleeve disconnected = amp on red channel
tip + sleeve connected = amp on green channel
sleeve + ring disconnected = reverb on
sleeve + ring connected = reverb off

I'm going to mod this one button footswitch I got to add red and green LEDs that show you which channel you're on (will require a battery or 9V supply). Also going to add a toggle and LED on the back to turn the reverb on and off. Will probably also put a toggle on the back to change polarity for the amp channel, in case you use it with a different amp that isn't wired the same. Just a fun project (and I do think red/green LEDs will be useful).

I personally like the reverb on all the time, so I use a stereo cable between the amp and any simple footswitch so that I can change channels while the reverb stays on.

 

[MarshallDog]

I bought the Marshall two button footswitch so I could control both functions...then I added ge LEDs running off of a 9V battery...

 

[Notes69]

Hey Folks,

So I haven't used my classic/clean in a long time. I wanted to do some mellow jamming tonight, and I noticed that channel is fuzzy as all heck. So much so, I can't enjoy it.

Switching back between the Classic and the Ultra gain I now notice it on both channels.

Are we talking a tube issue here? Or is this something more sinister?

Thanks guys

 

[MarshallDog]

Hey Folks,

So I haven't used my classic/clean in a long time. I wanted to do some mellow jamming tonight, and I noticed that channel is fuzzy as all heck. So much so, I can't enjoy it.

Switching back between the Classic and the Ultra gain I now notice it on both channels.

Are we talking a tube issue here? Or is this something more sinister?

Thanks guys

Well, would suggest start changing out the preamp tubes one by one staring at V1 first. It may be V1 seeing as this fuzz is happening on all channels. If that doesnt do it then try new power tubes. I am assuming this fuzz is not coming from the guitar input cables or pedal, correct?

 

[Notes69]

Well, would suggest start changing out the preamp tubes one by one staring at V1 first. It may be V1 seeing as this fuzz is happening on all channels. If that doesnt do it then try new power tubes. I am assuming this fuzz is not coming from the guitar input cables or pedal, correct?

Yea, I tried three guitars and multiple cords. All quality equipment. Zero change.

Tubes would be the simplest fix I would think. just wasn't sure if complete annoying fuzz was a tell tail sign.
Thanks for the advice, seems like a good start. Maybe I'll try out different varieties.

 

[whitecloud]

Just a heads up. Last weekend I talked to the head of the guitar department from the Retailer I bought my amp from. My question was what I asked here regarding upgrading/replacing the stock Seventy/80 he was not sure but provided me the number here in the USA for Marshall products etc. I just got done talked to this Dude in Customer service and he flat out told me that if I removed the speaker and replaced it that would VOID THE WARRANTY. I mentioned that I read on some forums where the amp got serviced under warranty even when the speaker was replaced and he said it must of 'just slipped through". I have been running a looper pedal into the amp, on and off over time to break in the stock speaker quicker and placing couch cushions on top and in front of the amp. I did try couple more things, like a pedal and 4x12 and will add some comments on how all that went pretty soon. So lesson learned, get your intel from the horse's mouth

 

[ken361]

well mine got fixed ,this guy works from home but still a Marshall authorized tech and was fixed for free. His job is to fix the amp and doesn't care if the speaker is changed or not
BTW the amps crunch and cleans never sounded better with the new speaker and lower bias!

 

[whitecloud]

well mine got fixed ,this guy works from home but still a Marshall authorized tech and was fixed for free. His job is to fix the amp and doesn't care if the speaker is changed or not
BTW the amps crunch and cleans never sounded better with the new speaker and lower bias!

You live in a big City compared to small College town I live in so may have less options as to where the amp might go for servicing. And he did say it must of slipped through and this could very well be the situation in many cases. I posted this reply as sort of a PSA for those that want to know where Marshall stands on this issue and not hypothetical's. I do know what this amp sounds like through other speakers/cabs and will comment on this very soon