4 x 12 how can I repair a broken caster?

[usablefiber]

Got my ol 4 x 12 out as I finally have space to play, but one of the casters is completely effed. The insert slot is totally stripped and busted up probably from banged around too much in moving so the wheel screw won’t stay in. Does anyone have crafty know how on how to repair this as I really need to have casters for transportation. Looks like woodworking would be involved. Thanks guys

 

[Matthews Guitars]

Buy new casters that come with their socket bases. Yes those are easy to come by at all the amp cabinet hardware supply outlets. Amplified Parts has them.

 

[RLW59]

You just remove the 4 screws, lift the socket off, drop a new one in, put the 4 screws back in.

Just Google "Marshall caster socket" and you'll find a bunch of vendors. The earlier style is rare and hard to find, but that current one has been used for a long time and is commonly available. Around $10 with shipping.

 

[Gene Ballzz]

Here's one source, in the US:

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/caster-marshall-2-socket-cabinets

 

[usablefiber]

Ohh awesome! Thanks guys!

 

[Garth Rocket]

Ok, fast forward to 2024 and Marshall has been acquired by Zound Industries and the castors are on back order. The AC/DC tribute band I roadie for had a 1960 4x12 cab that had a stripped castor. At the last gig while we we loading up the castor fell out and the head almost fell off the the cab.

Since I lose sleep over shit like that I asked the guitar player if I could fix it prior to the gig this weekend. Of course, the answer was yes please.

I went over to check it out today with my tools and the first thing I noticed and learned, was that the CASTORS NEED TO BE SCREWED DOWN TIGHTLY, USING THE PROPER HEX WRENCH. The reason the castors get stripped is that if there’s a apace between the castor and the insert and the can hit a bump or gets dropped a a few inches the plastic threads will get broken and it’s stripped. If it was tight, it could not happen. In any case this is how I’m fixing it.

I removed the the castor insert by removing the 4 screws. The I cut off about 1/2 inch of the plastic portion that should be threaded and would be inserted into the cab. Then I used a file to take off the edges of a 7/16 nut that the castor could screw into. Then I used JB Weld to fasten the nut to the castor insert, so it would now have threads. Prior to using the JB Weld, I rolled up some cardboard to use as the placeholder for the castor bold, so the JB Weld wouldn’t mess up the threads. Yes, I know this is ridiculous, but being a gear junky it feels satisfying