6100 channel switching problem

[ACHIEVEIT]

Hi,

i tried the aforementioned solution and it seems to have solved the problem in which all leds stay lit and channels won't switch. My local store didn't have any axial caps, so i haven't soldered anything yet. This is what i tried:
I put three caps (22uF, 47uF and 100uF) in parallel with C301 (which is 10uF). Caps in parallel have 'added' capacity, so overall capacity was 32, 57 and 110 uF. All combinations worked fine but i will probably put a 47uF as with the 100uF the delay time (there is no delay switching channels - just delay to reset the midi module) was a bit too much. So, anyone having problem with the midi can try replacing C301 with 47uF/25V (22uF would probably be ok too).

 

[Jonathan Wilder]

That's interesting that the reset pin on the 8031 is active high. Most other micro-controllers use an active low external reset (i.e. shorting the reset pin to ground usually resets the uC) while setting the pin high for normal operation.

 

[chuckharmonjr]

HT....lol...you can post that man till the cows come home...Joey and Norm musta drunk a lotta beer...thats all I gotta say...this is the longest running pissing contest I ever did see....lol....I done run outta popcorn

 

[Joey Voltage]

HT....lol...you can post that man till the cows come home...Joey and Norm musta drunk a lotta beer...thats all I gotta say...this is the longest running pissing contest I ever did see....lol....I done run outta popcorn

Meh.. I'm sure there has been longer this is only four pages, and it still proves my point in the end: if you would have tested the logic states at the output of the flip flop you still would have seen the anomaly, and can work backwards. Not that it was a hard and fast solution, but a means to focus attention to an area.

I didn't even want to get involved initially , but I started seeing claims that didn't make any damn sense.

 

[TwinACStacks]

Joey Kicks ASS. If he says: "It's this way inside your Amp", you had better fucking believe it as Gospel.

Just my 2 pennies.

TWIN

 

[HOT TUBES 70]

HT....lol...you can post that man till the cows come home...Joey and Norm musta drunk a lotta beer...thats all I gotta say...this is the longest running pissing contest I ever did see....lol....I done run outta popcorn

Thanks for the heads up !!
I will look else where for my needed info i guess ......

pissing match you say !

 

[Joey Voltage]

Great read guys ! as you all know i'm a huge fan of the 6100 amp !
my amp at the moment is working pretty good , But its getting to be a few years old to say the least !

I plan to keep this amp for a long time , in your guys opinion what internals should i replace for good basic maintainence , filter caps , the op amps you spoke of early on in this thread ??? is there any other electronics that should be delt with asap ???


Thanks for any tips on this .....

Filter caps a must. all Electrolytics for that matter, if they are of a lowish value, 4.7uf or lower, you can find film caps to replace them which will subjectively sound better, and last the life of the amplifier.

If you want to experiment with opamps go ahead, I would suggest however using a socket instead of hard soldering them in. This way you can A/B them to see if they make a big enough of a difference to you.

 

[rjohns1]

Joey, just FYI, the 6100 has all of the chips in sockets.

 

[bennieusmaximus]

Bad new for the 6100.The Switcher ic'sdidnt work.Goin to a tech.Thanks for al the input though,leared alot.Ill let ya know what happened when I get it back.The suspence is killin'me.

 

[TiPiMods]

I owned a 6100 which had the same problem after I bought it on ebay and the seller didn' pack it in a proper way. that thing must be crashed on the floor or something. The tech which repaired it, told me that the oscilator crystal was broken. After putting in a new one it worked properly.
Maybe this helps.
TP

 

[bennieusmaximus]

Maybey Ill give it one more try.

 

[Joey Voltage]

Bad new for the 6100.The Switcher ic'sdidnt work.Goin to a tech.Thanks for al the input though,leared alot.Ill let ya know what happened when I get it back.The suspence is killin'me.

Never thought that was the problem in the first place, did you try Achieve it's solution? or did you try measuring the output states of the Latch like I suggested?

Will you do me a favor before you take it to a tech? Take out all the Valves, and see if the switching circuit works with everything out-no load on any supply. If it works with everything out, I would look at Achieve its post again. If it is doing the same thing however, it is something in the logic itself, and hopefully it is just something simple such as the Clock just being a bad "concert conductor"

 

[bennieusmaximus]

You bet I Will remeasure the outputstates again.I measured them when the amp wasnt switching and none of them matched.I didnt know if that was the measurement for when the amp was switching or not switching.Or mabey the measurements should be the same eather way?For the the achieve solution,I might need a little more detail for getting the 5v source to the pin,or should I just change the cap301 there?Ill take out the valves tonight and check it out when I get hone from work,Thanks.

 

[bennieusmaximus]

Ok,Joey,I pulled all the tubes and It switched perfectly.Tryed it 5 times,worked everytime.Details for the Achieve solution would be great.I think that may work.If it is a simple cap switch that should be no problem.

 

[Joey Voltage]

Ok,Joey,I pulled all the tubes and It switched perfectly.Tryed it 5 times,worked everytime.Details for the Achieve solution would be great.I think that may work.If it is a simple cap switch that should be no problem.

Exactly! its the loading on the Heater supply, achieve it's sollution is the one a couple of posts up(post 98) from Ampage. I would also consider replacing reg401 with a 5V LDO regulator To220 package.

If you cant find it, let me know, and I will help you out.

 

[bennieusmaximus]

Can I get these parts from antique elec supply or should I go threw mouser?How do I find the part numbers for these?How is the LDO reg shown in the schematic?

 

[ACHIEVEIT]

Basically you can try the solution i found floating around the internet (it was not my idea) the same way i did. You don't have to pull the pcb's or solder anything - just use a pair of alligator clips and put a 25V 47uF in parallel with C301. That will make the total C301 capacitance 57uF (because the original C301 is 10uF). If this solves the problem, then you can replace the original 10uF C301 with just the 47uF you put in parallel - it will be more than enough

 

[Joey Voltage]

Can I get these parts from antique elec supply or should I go threw mouser?How do I find the part numbers for these?How is the LDO reg shown in the schematic?

I would go through mouser:

KA78R05CTU Fairchild Semiconductor Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators

The LDO regulator would probably be enough, but the cap fix wont hurt.

Here this one is probably better:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...4941BV/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvHdo5hUx%2bJYjpMp86ZcGTw

 

[bennieusmaximus]

Thanks guys, I'll probably be ordering tonight.

 

[bennieusmaximus]

Hey Joey,I see 3 regulators on the 400 board,reg 401,reg 402 reg 403.should I replace all 3 or would that be overkill?