Attenuator Thread

[PelliX]

This topic/context is rather subjective, though. I doubt one could really create concisive list. What might be 'interesting' is a comparison sheet with models and specs (as in construction quality, maximum "safe" load, type of load, etc). Also, a bill of materials for a couple of JohnH's attenuators or other "recipes" could be cool.

 

[Kid_Awesome1]

For what it's worth, I have a Weber MiniMass to pair with my SV20 and I think it works great! Don't notice much change in sound, other than it doesn't hurt my ears, and it has a switch to add back some treble if you're finding it too dark. No power needed, cheap but American well-built. Sounds a hell of a lot better using it as my "drive" pedal than anything I may put in front of the amp. For me, power tube distortion is where it's at and you need an attenuator to get it (or ear plugs).

 

[Cysquatch]

I've been using a Torpedo Captor for a few years now and love it. It's a set attenuation at -20db, so it may be too much for smaller amps depending upon venue and band, but I've done a ton of blind A/B recording and really can't tell much of a difference. It adds a really slight amount of extra sizzle, but totally negligible in any live situation, and the added features are fantastic. The included speaker sim has sounded great both recorded direct or run straight to a board with my DSL, JVM, and Recto-verb.

I'm heavily considering getting the new Captor X just for the extra features because I've been so impressed with the standard one for so long.

I tried a Weber Mass before and absolutely hated it. Even with super slight attentuation, it sounded like poorly recieved AM radio on a bad car stereo. It was bad enough that I sent it to Weber to get checked out because I thought it was broken. Nope, just awful.

 

[Jay Doherty]

There are all kinds of requests for info on attenuators here, so I thought it might be an idea to create a thread where info on the various attenuators could be collected for easy reference.

We have our own JohnH attenuator, the various Weber models, Tone King, the Torpedo Captor units, the Jet City Jettenuator, the Jettenuator knockoffs, and of course the Marshal PowerBrake. There will be others that I have forgotten.

So maybe people can take the time to list which attenuator they own, what amp(s) they are using it with, and what they think of it. That way those looking for info have a one stop resource for info.

Not a pure attenuator, but I use the 50watt Fryette Power Station with my 1959. It’s a reactive load with re-amp.

 

[acromarmot]

There are all kinds of requests for info on attenuators here, so I thought it might be an idea to create a thread where info on the various attenuators could be collected for easy reference.

We have our own JohnH attenuator, the various Weber models, Tone King, the Torpedo Captor units, the Jet City Jettenuator, the Jettenuator knockoffs, and of course the Marshal PowerBrake. There will be others that I have forgotten.

So maybe people can take the time to list which attenuator they own, what amp(s) they are using it with, and what they think of it. That way those looking for info have a one stop resource for info.

Hi,

Got the HB Power Attenuator and built a @JohnH M2 8R.

The problem with the HB for me ain't the heat. It's equipped with big resistors and has a fan powered from the amp output, that comes in handy. The problem is the sound when attenuating more then 50%.
It loses lot of high freq and gets muffled.
You could somehow compensate for with the amp eq but it's still not the real deal.

This is why I built the @JohnH attenuator and I am super happy. No tone loss regarding freq, the only thing remaining is the change in perception at lower volumes because of ear, brain, pushed air missing out.
Excellent device, cheap as well even with high quality components.

FWIW I use both with an Orange Rockerverb 50. Didn't try with the 5150iii yet.

 

[acromarmot]

This is a good thread!

BTW, that audio storm is a totally different design to ours, the only common factor is that it has some switches in a box!

If anyone is interested and able to take these attenuator reviews a stage further by posting recordings, Id suggest a short looped riff, amp set at high volume where you like it most and record attenuated and then at full speaker volume with attenuator bypassed or out of circuit. Make sure each recording is clear, then normalize them to the same volume level on the DAW . To do this you need to have a reasonable mic that can work close-miced to the speaker, and some kind of interface or USB mixer but I reckon most of you would have such. My first attempt at this is on post 1 of our Workbench thread:

Simple Attenuators - Design And Testing

Background Passive attenuators are wired between the amp output and the speakers. Their function is to absorb most of the output power of the amp, feeding a smaller amount to the speaker itself. This allows the amp output stage to run at higher power, letting the glorious tone of a good valve...

www.marshallforum.com

I reckon the ideal is that when attenuated and unattenuated tracks are both played at they same volume, they sound identical, at any attenuator setting. That's what I go for!

Sorry, bro. Interface I have but no mics whatsoever

 

[tonycaster]

the best attenuator I’ve tried with an amp with fx loop is a low Z passive volume pedal; that’s what I currently use with my sc20h, with zero tone loss and as a perfect lead boost too. I also have a harley benton pa100 that I use with a ‘78 2203: as soon as attenuation is at min or lightly below, it attenuates with little tone loss and does the job, but generally no love for attenuators; I’ve had a weber minimass 50 used with a vox ac30 and the loss of highs and lows was terrible, as well as the amount of compression. As a gigging musician, I’m tempted by a torpedo captor x instead of a cab, the way Steve Stevens uses his heads live for the european tour: If it’s good enough for him…

 

[AustinPaul]

I'll throw in another vote for the Freyette 're-amper'. I am only using it with my JTM45 for now. You get the attenuation, but as noted earlier, what you're hearing is a re-amplification via 6L6s, not a bad deal at all. I've set it at unity levels where amp output matches the PS2A and with everything set to 'flat', I can't tell too much of a difference from all amp, or through the unit. I have a feeling that you would start to see more colorization when you're maxing the 6L6s, which would obviously be very loud in and of itself and I'd love to hear it like that.

Imagine me throwing my palm-size 5w Hotone, a few pedals, and the Freyette into a backpack, a guitar into a gig bag, and only have a cab to carry, like a 1x12. Totally doable. I'd have 50 watts of great tube tone.

At any rate, they're definitely not inexpensive, but I waited a long time to get my dream plexi half-stack and didn't want to skimp on this purchase.

I had one of the old PowerBrakes that I bought new to use with my JCM800 - opinions may vary, but I thought it was total crap. Couldn't believe how dull sounding it made my amp. I got rid of it after about a year (25+ yrs ago) and haven't missed it in the slightest. The Freyette is obviously a different product design, but the end result puts it in another league.

 

[acromarmot]

the best attenuator I’ve tried with an amp with fx loop is a low Z passive volume pedal; that’s what I currently use with my sc20h, with zero tone loss and as a perfect lead boost too. I also have a harley benton pa100 that I use with a ‘78 2203: as soon as attenuation is at min or lightly below, it attenuates with little tone loss and does the job, but generally no love for attenuators; I’ve had a weber minimass 50 used with a vox ac30 and the loss of highs and lows was terrible, as well as the amount of compression. As a gigging musician, I’m tempted by a torpedo captor x instead of a cab, the way Steve Stevens uses his heads live for the european tour: If it’s good enough for him…

Hi, sounds good. Both of my amps have a loop and power amp distortion is nice but not a must for me.
Just curious: how do you find a low Z pedal? Never seen a datasheet in the guitar world where Z would be rated. Or am I on the wrong track?

 

[Bern1]

I used a Hotplate for years with my Metro JTM45. I had the 8 ohm version and it did a nice job. Obviously, it’s all a compromise but it sounded good in all ranges except max attenuation 16 db. It kept the club owners happy.

I just started using a Weber Mass Lite with the JTM and what I like about it is the capability of adding some top or bottom end, as there are two separate gain controls for those two ranges.

I use a Weber Mini Mass for my 18W combo. I stuffed it into the cabinet and it works great. No complaints, it does the job and preserves most of the tone.

I use a Dr. Z Brake lite with my Allen Encore and I stuffed that into the combo cabinet as well. Same good performance.

I think the caveat with all these is that as long as you don’t expect it to sound exactly like the amp opened up to its’ natural zone, they all do a pretty good job.

Reading through here, I’m tempted to try something new to see if one of these would be better, but I’m now much too lazy…….

 

[WesChilton]

I have the UA OX which I use both as an attenuator and a digital input to my DAW from 3 amps. A '76 Marshall JMP 2203, a '67 Fender Deluxe Reverb and a newish VOX AC-15. I also use a KHE Amp/Cab switcher that has the OX in a loop. Works great and is very efficient for going through different amps and cabs looking for the right tone for the song.

 

[tonycaster]

low z

Hi, sounds good. Both of my amps have a loop and power amp distortion is nice but not a must for me.
Just curious: how do you find a low Z pedal? Never seen a datasheet in the guitar world where Z would be rated. Or am I on the wrong track?

low z is 25k instead of hi z being 500k: boss and ernie ball have both versions; I’m no tech at all, but I trust my ears and I kept the low z in the loop

 

[Johnny_Sokko]

I have both a PowerBrake and the Boss Waza Craft Tube Amp Expander. I almost exclusivey use the Boss for the features it offers. Since the Boss is a re-amper as long as you set the correct impedance for the amp into the Boss it can run any impedance cab/speaker safely.

 

[Jack Lord]

I've used different attentuators with different amps over the years. The one I held onto the longest was a TAD Silencer but I was never really crazy about it except with minor attenuation engaged. I recently tried an Ironman Mini but couldn't get it to a reasonable level for what I need it for. I would have preferred if it had a variable volume knob instead of fixed levels.

I decided to splurge for a Freyette PS2a for a multi-purpose unit I can use with my amps and cabs. I can shape the sound to get nearly identical sounds at lower volumes. As a reamp unit it can also push my low watt amps up to 50 watts. I also find it useful for more tone shaping with my old Champ which only has a single volume knob.

To me it sounds transparent so I'm happy with it. Of course there is nothing comparable to going in straight to amp and letting the speakers do what they were made for but playing that way would strictly limit the opportunities to play and record here at home.

While I was waiting for the Freyette I had borrowed a Harley Benton attentuator. It was the bigger model they offer. I actually found it very useful and preferred it much more than my TAD Silencer! Super cheap in comparison to it too.

But in my opinion I hate the whole bedroom level thing or playing through headphones. I mean, it's better than not playing but I miss the hearing an actual speaker being pushed. And headphone speakers can never compare.

 

[cccc]

Apologies but it needs to be said :

By far and away the most asked question on every guitar forum in existence these days is people asking about super low wattage amps that don't need the extra expense of an attenuator but STILL provide the legendary JMP and JCM 800 tones .

The simple answer is for Marshall to bring back the JMP and JCM 800 1 watt series and make them a year round stock item . They would sells tens of millions year in year out . There is a single JMP 1 WATT selling on Reverb right now priced at an astonishing $1,695.00 . Yes, they are that good even at TV volume settings . Listen to the JAMIES CRYING tone below .

 

[acromarmot]

Thx for clearing that up. It makes sense that way with the amp input being high impedance rather than the loop usually buffered with low impedance.

low z

low z is 25k instead of hi z being 500k: boss and ernie ball have both versions; I’m no tech at all, but I trust my ears and I kept the low z in the loop

 

[jack brands]

There are all kinds of requests for info on attenuators here, so I thought it might be an idea to create a thread where info on the various attenuators could be collected for easy reference.

We have our own JohnH attenuator, the various Weber models, Tone King, the Torpedo Captor units, the Jet City Jettenuator, the Jettenuator knockoffs, and of course the Marshal PowerBrake. There will be others that I have forgotten.

So maybe people can take the time to list which attenuator they own, what amp(s) they are using it with, and what they think of it. That way those looking for info have a one stop resource for info.

Mmmm. I have a couple of Marshall dsl 402s and have had many amps. The best way to keep down the level is to use a really good clean channel and use an overdrive pedal in the front end. Man it solves all the issues and sounds miles better than any expensive attenuators. The dsl 40 has an amazing clean channel.

 

[1neeto]

I have a Dr. Z Brake Lite, and it works great on my DSL20 and Mesa Subway Rocket for bedroom playing. One thing though, I think I did overcook my power tubes on the Mesa because I lost a considerable amount of volume on that amp with the attenuator disconnected.

 

[Benny]

There are all kinds of requests for info on attenuators here, so I thought it might be an idea to create a thread where info on the various attenuators could be collected for easy reference.

We have our own JohnH attenuator, the various Weber models, Tone King, the Torpedo Captor units, the Jet City Jettenuator, the Jettenuator knockoffs, and of course the Marshal PowerBrake. There will be others that I have forgotten.

So maybe people can take the time to list which attenuator they own, what amp(s) they are using it with, and what they think of it. That way those looking for info have a one stop resource for info.

Aracom-DAG Attenuator PRX150-DAG​

Works well, does not kill tone. Is passive, Will handle 100 Watt amps easy. Lots of other useful features too, like impedance conversion.

 

[TheChris]

I pretty much only trust older gear, so I went with an original Scholz Power Soak for my tube amps from my 2210 and down. IMO, Scholz was a musical genius, and designed them specifically for Marshalls. Even though they are probably the first attenuators,I still think they are the best. I found a guy on Reverb named 'House of Scholz' and just bought that, and a few Rockmans. All refurbed, and like new.

It sounds perfect. I'm reading a lot of replies about the Bugeras. I would not trust a good amp with a company like Behringer. They take every cost-cutting move they can. So, watch out with those - and read what others have written.