Broken solder pad - suggestions?

[nortiks]

Its one of the holes for a bias cap.
Im replacing it. I’ll most likely bend the new lead over the remaining pad and then solder to the joint to the right. Should be enough connection?

I've done exactly this many times. In fact its my default method when prototyping in perf board.

[edit] On this one it won't really matter to just solder to the next pad over since its so close. But if you ever run into one where the next pad over is too far, just scrape the "green" with a single edged razor or similar at the broken pad and solder to that. Believe it or not, I've actually pulled off doing this on surface mount op-amps. Now I had to use a dissecting microscope, lol, and it was really ugly, but it did save the piece from the trash heap!

 

[JzRepair]

Well my one worst nightmares happened while working on my JMP 2204…I lost a little bit of solder pad

In an attempt to eliminate the amount of time/heat I put on the board I tried using one of those electronic solder suckers. It did it’s job, but was just too much. Never again! (the rest of the amp is fine btw)

What’s the best step forward?

(Warning graphic images )

View attachment 158789

If you do any kind of circuit repair,you are guaranteed to run into this from time to time, either by your own doing or someone else before you. This is why it's so very important to have a temperature controlled iron. That doesn't mean it won't happen, but controlling the temperature is a safer way to solder.

Great suggestions above, however, I don't suggest the wire method, because some day, it's going to need to be desoldered and that little wire is going to come off and you're right back where you started. Work smart, not hard.

Scraping the solder resist is the easiest way to achieve the repair, then bending the lead as others have suggested. You can also use a jumper wire for longer runs. Please don't run jumpers on the top side of the board. It looks like garbage and can be confusing later on.

Usually, there is no harm in connecting a jumper to an already soldered connection, but it can cause complications if there is a specific resistance that trace is trying to achieve.

I repair a lot of stereos that have pads already missing, or become broken when I get in to replace something. As someone else said, heat is the biggest factor here, but it can also be heat from the circuit itself when it has been neglected.

Leaning how to repair these pads/traces, while keeping it simple is a valuable tool. If you start doing more repairs. You'll see this more often and you'll often find jumpers in place where someone else has repaired it before. If you use wire to repair the connection, just make sure it's solid core and thick enough to handle the current requirements for the circuit.

As for solder suckers, they are a valuable tool, so don't count them out. Tbh, I've had more issues with this using braid than I have with suckers, but I really only use a sucker when I have solder I can't get out of a hole with the braid.

Good luck on the repair.

One last thought. Any time you make this kind of repair, always be sure you have good clearance between other traces and pads and for the love of the guitar gods, please clean your work with alcohol. Always leave it cleaner than you found it. One day, someone else will be in there. Show them you were competent in what you are doing.

 

[nortiks]

If you do any kind of circuit repair,you are guaranteed to run into this from time to time, either by your own doing or someone else before you. This is why it's so very important to have a temperature controlled iron. That doesn't mean it won't happen, but controlling the temperature is a safer way to solder.

One last thought. Any time you make this kind of repair, always be sure you have good clearance between other traces and pads and for the love of the guitar gods, please clean your work with alcohol. Always leave it cleaner than you found it. One day, someone else will be in there. Show them you were competent in what you are doing.

+1000.

I have seen high impedance circuits act wonky due to remaining solder flux...the fix was to properly clean it... Walmart sells 93% isopropyl alcohol for a couple of bucks, works great for this.

 

[JzRepair]

+1000.

I have seen high impedance circuits act wonky due to remaining solder flux...the fix was to properly clean it... Walmart sells 93% isopropyl alcohol for a couple of bucks, works great for this.

Yes! And Ace Hardware sells 90+% by the gallon if you do this regularly. Just need a good hog hair brush to get the stubborn stuff, but a clean solft bristles toothbrush will work in a pinch!

 

[KraftyBob]

Here’s a repair I did on a friends, son’s MG30DFX. His son was messing around with the input jack and managed to rip off the solder pad. My friend was a little pissed at his son, but I give the kid credit for his interest in trying to learn how things work. Easy enough to fix.

 

[psychic_fuzz]

+1000.

I have seen high impedance circuits act wonky due to remaining solder flux...the fix was to properly clean it... Walmart sells 93% isopropyl alcohol for a couple of bucks, works great for this.

Yep I always clean the PCB after I do work. I use an old toothbrush. Despite this mishap I’m usually super clean with my work!

 

[psychic_fuzz]

If you do any kind of circuit repair,you are guaranteed to run into this from time to time, either by your own doing or someone else before you. This is why it's so very important to have a temperature controlled iron. That doesn't mean it won't happen, but controlling the temperature is a safer way to solder.

Great suggestions above, however, I don't suggest the wire method, because some day, it's going to need to be desoldered and that little wire is going to come off and you're right back where you started. Work smart, not hard.

Scraping the solder resist is the easiest way to achieve the repair, then bending the lead as others have suggested. You can also use a jumper wire for longer runs. Please don't run jumpers on the top side of the board. It looks like garbage and can be confusing later on.

Usually, there is no harm in connecting a jumper to an already soldered connection, but it can cause complications if there is a specific resistance that trace is trying to achieve.

I repair a lot of stereos that have pads already missing, or become broken when I get in to replace something. As someone else said, heat is the biggest factor here, but it can also be heat from the circuit itself when it has been neglected.

Leaning how to repair these pads/traces, while keeping it simple is a valuable tool. If you start doing more repairs. You'll see this more often and you'll often find jumpers in place where someone else has repaired it before. If you use wire to repair the connection, just make sure it's solid core and thick enough to handle the current requirements for the circuit.

As for solder suckers, they are a valuable tool, so don't count them out. Tbh, I've had more issues with this using braid than I have with suckers, but I really only use a sucker when I have solder I can't get out of a hole with the braid.

Good luck on the repair.

One last thought. Any time you make this kind of repair, always be sure you have good clearance between other traces and pads and for the love of the guitar gods, please clean your work with alcohol. Always leave it cleaner than you found it. One day, someone else will be in there. Show them you were competent in what you are doing.

I really appreciate all the insight and sort of talking me off the edge.

I won’t do topside, I agree i don’t like how that looks.

I know a few have mentioned scraping the “green”, I kind of like to avoid that if possible. I just don’t trust my artistry quite yet.

Would bending over the new lead, soldering at remaining pad and also connecting/reflowing to the next joint be sufficient?