C19 Mod On A 2018 Dsl 20cr?

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House

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Hello once again. Let me cut to chase. The 20cr I had was defective. No biggie. I got a hold of Sweetwater and they replaced it IMMEDIATELY! I pulled the stock speaker and dropped in a Greenback G12M. I run my modulations through the effects, and it's a f**king singer! The problem with the previous versions icepick sting when switching channels is tamed. Now I know what you guys are smiling about. Thanks for the feedback y'all!
Here's a pic of me modest rig...
20180929_042843.jpg
 

Antmax

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Hello once again. Let me cut to chase. The 20cr I had was defective. No biggie. I got a hold of Sweetwater and they replaced it IMMEDIATELY! I pulled the stock speaker and dropped in a Greenback G12M. I run my modulations through the effects, and it's a f**king singer! The problem with the previous versions icepick sting when switching channels is tamed. Now I know what you guys are smiling about. Thanks for the feedback y'all!

I was going to say, mine isn't that bright at all. Not like my previous gen DSL which was very bright and glassy, especially the clean channel. My 20HR is darker and fuller sounding.
 

lovehifi

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I have the 40cr and the first thing I did was check the bias. Seems a lot of DSLs come biased hot from the factory. I also switched out the speaker to a 12m-65 Creamback. Have no brightness issues as all now.
 

Antmax

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I have the 40cr and the first thing I did was check the bias. Seems a lot of DSLs come biased hot from the factory. I also switched out the speaker to a 12m-65 Creamback. Have no brightness issues as all now.

That was my solution with my old DSL5c. The new DSL's are a little darker and fuller bodied than the previous gen.
 
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House

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I have the 40cr and the first thing I did was check the bias. Seems a lot of DSLs come biased hot from the factory. I also switched out the speaker to a 12m-65 Creamback. Have no issues .
I have the 40cr and the first thing I did was check the bias. Seems a lot of DSLs come biased hot from the factory. I also switched out the speaker to a 12m-65 Creamback. Have no brightness issues as all now.
Hey Dogg, I have a basic understanding of biasing, but not comfortable enough to perform any twerking. I do have a budd that's certified on this. Could you hit me the numbers you have yours dialed in at, so I could give my guy a reference point? Thanks Dogg!
 

Antmax

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I'm pretty sure you can't bias these DSL 20's. My old DSL had three prongs and a small screw pot and was very easy to bias. But the dsl is hardwired self biasing. To change the bias would probably involve changing some electrical components.

Here's the inside of the 20 from another thread.
hTwnhnP.jpg
 

House

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I'm pretty sure you can't bias these DSL 20's. My old DSL had three prongs and a small screw pot and was very easy to bias. But the dsl is hardwired self biasing. To change the bias would probably involve changing some electrical components. Thank Bro. You saved from impending confusion. Lol!

Here's the inside of the 20 from another thread.
 

Antmax

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Hey Dogg, is the V1 position/socket far right or far left?

Convention has it so it's usually the preamp tube closest to the input jack and furthest away from the power section. So in the pic below it's probably the one on the far right with the O-ring thing on it. (Another giveaway) The o-ring is there to dampen vibrations and reduce microphonics on the most sensitive part of the signal chain. So that should be V1

Kx3V833.jpg
 

Antmax

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I should probably have mentioned that it depends on whether you have the combo or the head. They are not the same because the combo goes in it's cabinet inverted with the tubes hanging down and the faceplate is reversed so the input is on the left and the power and standby buttons on the right.

Head is opposite and has the tubes standing up with the switches on the left and input jack on the right.
 

Graham G

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It was just simply a defective amp all together. Everything's groovy with the replacement amp. I have faith in Marshall again, and especially Sweetwater!

I've just returned a DSL20CR,mainly because I didn't think it sounded "right?" i.e. it sounded hard & edgy & the Classic Ch. was almost useless in comparison to the Ultra,it also had a fault on the headphone out.
Could you post what the fault was with your Amp & maybe a comparison with the replacement?.
If I thought I had a faulty unit(the dealer said it was normal)I would try another one, in most of the on-line dem's I've heard it sounds great, which convinced me to buy it.
 

House

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I've just returned a DSL20CR,mainly because I didn't think it sounded "right?" i.e. it sounded hard & edgy & the Classic Ch. was almost useless in comparison to the Ultra,it also had a fault on the headphone out.
Could you post what the fault was with your Amp & maybe a comparison with the replacement?.
If I thought I had a faulty unit(the dealer said it was normal)I would try another one, in most of the on-line dem's I've heard it sounds great, which convinced me to buy it.

Hey Dogg! Mine began to pop and crackle. It was not just tubes breaking in. I pulled the 70/80 because it sound even too thin for that stock speaker. I dropped in a Greenback G12M, and it was like bees. Then it the atennuater went out on the low setting and I agree with you on the ultra channel. I could not tweak it for a smooth transition from the classic channel. And then I said, "Fuck this! I'm not hearing what I heard on the demos." I sent it back, and Sweetwater exchange it, before I could send the defective amp back. This this replacement has been on point so far. I like Marshalls, but after my DSL 40, and this 20CR, I'm gonna have to come up with big money to get a "MARSHALL!" was looking at the Origin, but I think I'll just wait till January 2020. By then I'll have my "PLEXI" money saved up. No more compromising... Hope this helped. HOUSE-OUT!
 

Justin Whitstine

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Something I found on my DSL40cr that helped ALOT was on both channels, make sure the channel volume isn't all the way up. I noticed rolling the channel volumes (not masters) down to 3:00 from all the way up around 5:00 cut some really piercing highs off.

I'm assuming it works the same way that rolling down the volume on your guitar from 10 to around 8 also helps cut highs. After doing that, I'm very happy.
 

guitarman3001

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I've just returned a DSL20CR,mainly because I didn't think it sounded "right?" i.e. it sounded hard & edgy & the Classic Ch. was almost useless in comparison to the Ultra,it also had a fault on the headphone out.
Could you post what the fault was with your Amp & maybe a comparison with the replacement?.
If I thought I had a faulty unit(the dealer said it was normal)I would try another one, in most of the on-line dem's I've heard it sounds great, which convinced me to buy it.

Check out my post on one of the DSL20 threads here. The headphone out problem is pretty widespread. It was acknowledged by Marshall to be a known issue. On the amps with the headphone problem, the FX loop is also messed up. Since most people don't use the headphone out, they'll probably never know their amp is broken. And they'll write off the FX loop problem as being "that's just the way the loop on this amp works...". Unfortunately, no. It's broken.

Try another one and make sure the headphone out works right. On the ones with the properly working headphone out and FX loop, I noticed a difference in the amp's tone. Also the gain on the Ultra channel seemed, at least to my ears, not as harsh and way more manageable. I like the amp so much I've gone through three broken ones and am waiting for my fourth to arrive next week.
 
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