Yes. They take a little while for an electrical path to settle. Certainly the first few hours will sound markedly different, and often thin and lacking punch.
F&T's are what most people use for standard filter cap cans, but I prefer ARS and they're usually cheaper too.
Also, if you can stomach undoing the nuts on all the pots and lifting the PCB up, it's well worth changing the 2 electrolytics in the bias circuit too. 10uF 160V axials. Risk of bias voltage failure is not an option you want in your amp.
Just the two 10uF's above (Rifa or Vishay would be best), and three dual section 50uF/50uF 500V can caps (ARS, F&T, Ampmedic, preferably NOT JJ).
Easy job, just make sure he safely discharges the caps before touching anything.
I have 7 units from 69 - 77. All components ex one resistor in a '69 are original.
Other than a '77 1959, these all sound awesome. That's not to say all units wouldn't sound better with a complete cap job
Without blinking, would you replace all the caps? OK, no one would drive a '70 Ford Falcon with the original oil filter and battery. But bugger me, the tone. Why muck about with it?