Cap job?

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damienbeale

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Yes. They take a little while for an electrical path to settle. Certainly the first few hours will sound markedly different, and often thin and lacking punch.
 

SeanMichael

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Can I just throw a CD player in front of it with the volume down for a few hours to kinda break them in?
 

damienbeale

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Absolutely. It will help, but not completely, since the lack of volume will render the discharge cycles of the caps close to non-existent.
 

SeanMichael

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Alright, thank you much for the help Damien, and everyone who has contributed to helping this kid out :D
 

damienbeale

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F&T's are what most people use for standard filter cap cans, but I prefer ARS and they're usually cheaper too.

Also, if you can stomach undoing the nuts on all the pots and lifting the PCB up, it's well worth changing the 2 electrolytics in the bias circuit too. 10uF 160V axials. Risk of bias voltage failure is not an option you want in your amp. ;)
 

SeanMichael

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So, If I were to do a complete cap job on the amp, what types would I need? How many of each? etc...

What do I need to look for, basically. My father is experienced in electronics and would be able to assist me in this endeavor.
 

damienbeale

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Just the two 10uF's above (Rifa or Vishay would be best), and three dual section 50uF/50uF 500V can caps (ARS, F&T, Ampmedic, preferably NOT JJ).
Easy job, just make sure he safely discharges the caps before touching anything. ;)
 

Nudge68

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I have 7 units from 69 - 77. All components ex one resistor in a '69 are original.

Other than a '77 1959, these all sound awesome. That's not to say all units wouldn't sound better with a complete cap job :yesway:

Without blinking, would you replace all the caps? OK, no one would drive a '70 Ford Falcon with the original oil filter and battery. But bugger me, the tone. Why muck about with it? :hbang:

cheers,

Matt.
 
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