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Completed JohnH Attenuators?

  • Thread starter Gene Ballzz
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JohnH

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hi @Jumping Jim , thanks for posting and Its so great that you can get your Dads old amp singing again.

Your case using an AC15 circuit is actually a very interesting reference point for our project. Vox AC circuits have no negative feedback, which makes them have very high real effective output impedances and they can be very sensitive to the impedances presented by the speakers, and in our case via the attenuator. With no NFB, bass resonance response and treble rise due to the interaction of speaker ad amp is maximised, accounting for the great touch response and bright sparkling tones of these amp designs. Most amps have some NFB, and give a different flatter response, but still with a lift. I tested and adjusted the attenuator design based on my two amps, one of which like Vox's, has EL84's with no NFB.

Our designs are able to adapt to these differences between different speakers and amps and let each amp and speaker develop its own real tone, adapting to the differences. Its a real 'Easter Egg' in the circuit design, unexpected when we first started but i think its why the attenuators have been found to work so well across many different amps and settings.
 

Gene Ballzz

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FWIW and whoever may be interested, I have a couple 16Ω M2s listed in our classifieds!


Gene
 

JohnH

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Here are three from this thread!

20240901_071135b.jpg

At the back. is a simple resistive version, from June 2018 which does -7dB, -14db, -21dB and -28dB. For just being resistive, it worked pretty well and it led to the later reactive designs.

In the middle, my reactive prototype, Design M, which has been in daily use since February 2019

And in front, the latest Lotus JohnH M2 by John Fromel ( @jfromel ) of Fromel Electronics, based on the current M2 circuit. Its a huge step forward in design refinement and production design and features a self-powered fan;
 
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JohnH

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Hi @jgab

The attenuators have to heat up to absorb the power and that's fine . How hot they get and whether they need a fan is dependent on how they are built and how much power. But for 100W, and usually for more than about 50W, yes a fan is needed. These can be run off a wall wart supply, or self powered from the amp power and we now know how to assess this.
 
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adrian078

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I was thinking of getting an enclosure like this for my 100W M2 build. I intend to mount a 60mm PC fan on the back and drill holes in the bottom. Any thoughts on this case, in particular the cooling?

aliexpress.com/item/1005002584253785.html

View attachment 156974
 

JohnH

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hi @adrian078 , thanks for your message. This thread is intended for completed builds. Could you repost on the main thread and I'll reply there?
 

adrian078

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hi @adrian078 , thanks for your message. This thread is intended for completed builds. Could you repost on the main thread and I'll reply there?
Apologies. I only just realised this was a different thread to the construction one....reposted.
 

crowe_baaah

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Hi Everyone — first time poster! I joined this forum about three weeks ago because I wanted to build a reactive attenuator.

I love (LOVE!!) tube amplifiers, and, to me, there is nothing sweeter than the sound of a “dimed” tube amp. Guitar. Cable. Amp on 11. Beautiful.

Only recently have I got into electronics. I bought my first soldering iron in June and poorly soldered my first guitar jack then. A little intimidated by the voltages in amplifiers, I’ve been working my way up to an amp kit build. I built a few pedals, and then decided that building an attenuator would be a great low-voltage project to build from scratch.

Presented below—warts and all—is my M2 model, which, having first misdrilled the switch hole locations, then subsequently installing them upside down, reads “no/no” instead of “on/on!” 🤦‍♂️😂. It worked successfully on first build. I’m getting 8.8 ohms across the 4/8 output jacks (and 9.3’ish on the 16 ohm jack, is that normal or did I make a mistake? I’d have thought it would be at 16). Anyway, it’s a blast to play and, for the first time, I was able to ‘dime’ my Carl’s Custom Amps 15-18W AC-15 homage (the V15). What a joy! @JohnH — my sincere thanks!
 

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JohnH

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hi @crowe_baaah
Thanks for posting and congrats on getting it working. Let's call the extra holes near the switches as 'ventilation' and I'll back you up!

On the Ohms readings, the key ones described in post#1 of the main thread are measured from the input to the attenuator, with speaker plugged in and without the amp. If that's what you measured then your readings look to be all fine and as expected, ie 7 to 10 Ohms in all settings, close enough to nominal 8 Ohms that the amp expects, and the range of values you posted are as expected in the design.
 

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