DSL40C having problems

[Gunner64]

Just one chip. Not sure of the name, I posted a pic of it in another thread. I believe my tech said it was some type of master programmable relay chip??

Do you know what it cost to get the chip changed?

 

[MarshallDog]

Do you know what it cost to get the chip changed?

Mine was still under the 5 year warranty so it cost nothing. My amp Tech, who is a Genius, said the chip cost 10 cents it’s the Marshall propriety programming of it that is the issue but, he was able to get a new chip from Marshall in 6 weeks...ugh!

 

[Micky]

Has the OP been back with an update?

 

[Gunner64]

Mine was still under the 5 year warranty so it cost nothing. My amp Tech, who is a Genius, said the chip cost 10 cents it’s the Marshall propriety programming of it that is the issue but, he was able to get a new chip from Marshall in 6 weeks...ugh!

Ahh. I was just wondering as I just bought one of these 40c 's cheap, 2017 production. No problems now, but just feeling out what I may be in for down the road.

 

[Mitchell Pearrow]

Has the OP been back with an update?

I have not seen him.

 

[MarshallDog]

Ahh. I was just wondering as I just bought one of these 40c 's cheap, 2017 production. No problems now, but just feeling out what I may be in for down the road.

With these amps you never know, its like a box of chocolates. Mine started acting up about 1.5 years after I had it.

 

[OU812]

I have one that I bought from a pawn shop and the red channel cranked has barely a sound. The clean works fine. I have changed every tube with no difference. Any ideas? Could it be that chip?

 

[MarshallDog]

I have one that I bought from a pawn shop and the red channel cranked has barely a sound. The clean works fine. I have changed every tube with no difference. Any ideas? Could it be that chip?

possibly my Tech says it controls all the switching relays in the amp!

 

[Micky]

I have not seen him.

I have to really take exception to those who come in, trash an amp, then never show up again.

We used to call them trolls...

 

[MarshallDog]

I have to really take exception to those who come in, trash an amp, then never show up again.

We used to call them trolls...

Maybe hes too busy working on the amp or working to make money to pay for any possible repair fees?!

 

[Micky]

Well he has a handfull of posts, so it's not one and done.
I do hope he can come back and help us diagnose his amp.
There are a lot of great, knowledgeable people here willing to help...

 

[MarshallDog]

Well he has a handfull of posts, so it's not one and done.
I do hope he can come back and help us diagnose his amp.
There are a lot of great, knowledgeable people here willing to help...

I agree, updates are always great and adds to this Forums Knowledge Base!

 

[Rick in HB]

Sorry guys, I really do appreciate all your input. (But Micky, where did you get the idea I was "trashing an amp"? Chill, man!) Anyway, I got nailed for jury duty - got on a criminal case - so I haven't had a lot of time since last week.

Bottom line is I think the problem might be as simple as a faulty switch (Hi/Low/Standby). After cycling it many, many times the low output setting came back. I doubt this is a long term solution but I have just left it in place when I turn off the amp and it does work when I turn on it again. I do have a feeling there is something more going on with the connections (or chip) because of the strange footswitch thing I mentioned.

The amp is still way within warranty (5 years parts, 3 years labor) but I have a very bad habit of not keeping receipts and if I or an unauthorized Marshall shop opens it up the warranty is voided. Guitar Center might still have a record of the sale, so that's probably not a problem. There is a good authorized shop in Norwalk, CA, about 30 miles from where I live. Their rate is $75/hour plus parts if not a warranty repair so I really do want to somehow get a receipt. Anyway, that's the current situation. Thanks again for your help.

 

[Micky]

No disrespect at all Rick, just curious as to what and why you had a problem. Still not clear as to which version you have, the 40c or 40cr. The 2 different versions have different power switching methods, as well as different switches. The 40c switch is a hard-to-find replacement because of the hi-voltage thru it. The 40cr is slightly different.

Having sat on a couple juries, I know your struggles...

 

[MarshallDog]

Sorry guys, I really do appreciate all your input. (But Micky, where did you get the idea I was "trashing an amp"? Chill, man!) Anyway, I got nailed for jury duty - got on a criminal case - so I haven't had a lot of time since last week.

Bottom line is I think the problem might be as simple as a faulty switch (Hi/Low/Standby). After cycling it many, many times the low output setting came back. I doubt this is a long term solution but I have just left it in place when I turn off the amp and it does work when I turn on it again. I do have a feeling there is something more going on with the connections (or chip) because of the strange footswitch thing I mentioned.

The amp is still way within warranty (5 years parts, 3 years labor) but I have a very bad habit of not keeping receipts and if I or an unauthorized Marshall shop opens it up the warranty is voided. Guitar Center might still have a record of the sale, so that's probably not a problem. There is a good authorized shop in Norwalk, CA, about 30 miles from where I live. Their rate is $75/hour plus parts if not a warranty repair so I really do want to somehow get a receipt. Anyway, that's the current situation. Thanks again for your help.

FYI - I had lost mine and GC was able to get me a backup receipt!

 

[Exojam]

I would get into the amp and spray, in a controlled manor, some contact cleaner on the switch and rock it back and forth for a bit.

 

[Rick in HB]

No disrespect at all Rick, just curious as to what and why you had a problem. Still not clear as to which version you have, the 40c or 40cr. The 2 different versions have different power switching methods, as well as different switches. The 40c switch is a hard-to-find replacement because of the hi-voltage thru it. The 40cr is slightly different.

Having sat on a couple juries, I know your struggles...

No worries. You know, it's embarassing to say (or to spell embarrasing) but I really don't know if it's a C or a CR. I'm sort of remembering from when I bought it, it was a CR but I'll have to look for the manual to know for sure. Are there any obvious features on the amp itself to tell?

 

[Rick in HB]

I would get into the amp and spray, in a controlled manor, some contact cleaner on the switch and rock it back and forth for a bit.

I'm very tempted to do that but a bit worried about voiding the warranty. I don't know how anyone could tell as long as I didn't mess with anything too much but if the problem continues I might do that.

 

[Mitchell Pearrow]

No worries. You know, it's embarassing to say (or to spell embarrasing) but I really don't know if it's a C or a CR. I'm sort of remembering from when I bought it, it was a CR but I'll have to look for the manual to know for sure. Are there any obvious features on the amp itself to tell?

The Cr version has the different power modes on the stand by switch!
Cheers Mitch

 

[Micky]

C version has the Pentode/Triode switch in the back.

Thw CR version has 2 master volumes and midi.