Hide glue materials

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ELS

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I have no problem sourcing regular caddle hides (cleaned ofc), but I was wondering what about other types.
what I've read is that:
fish glue is less brittle (some articles say the opposite), and has a longer working time, also allows joints to move unlike hide glue.
bone glue is "for hard joints"
rabbit skin glue is "extremely strong, slow setting", and can be made very thin.
isinglass glue "obtained from the air bladders of russian sturgeons, low viscosity for the strongest bonds". at first I thought this was a joke reading it but further research says that it is a thing.

I tried making glue out of collagen peptides and it didn't even turn into jello. absolutely useless.
gelatin worked fine, I'm doubtful of it's strength tho. also found this written about it:
"Food gelatin does not contain Chondrin and Keratin which aid in viscosity and adhesion, the absence of these make it poor for gluing applications."
bone glue would be convenient since I need to make a nut for my LP anyway, but I read it's actually a lower gram strength than hide glue.

also I read that if you add 0.5 - 1% aluminum sulfate to the glue, it is more resistant to moisture. I'm probably gonna do this since I'm paranoid about my guitar splitting in 2 pieces.
aluminum sulfate... isn't that what stradavari added to his violins to keep bugs away? maybe that's the secret ingredient of our favorite guitars :D
also 1% of vinegar to increase wetting, not sure if I want to add this since I'm not worried about wetting and I hate the stench of vinegar even if it's just until the glue dries.

oh and I heard that the glue goes bad when exposed to ozone.

I'll make all the types I can make and experiment anyway but I'm asking if you've got any suggestions for me to do.
 
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EJstrat&JVM

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Yes, my suggestion is to use hide glue normally. All violin luthiers at maestronet will confirm this, no vinegar, and no aluminium. Use the light trick to spot gaps in the joint. I had no problem in warming it in a microwave:D
 
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ELS

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Yes, my suggestion is to use hide glue normally. All violin luthiers at maestronet will confirm this, no vinegar, and no aluminium. Use the light trick to spot gaps in the joint. I had no problem in warming it in a microwave:D
well violin makers wouldn't want their glues to be much harder to take apart.
and violins aren't being banged around on a hot summer's eve with sweat pouring down the guitar every weekend :D
well I'll test it on a scrap piece of wood. I doubt 0.5 - 5% of aluminum sulfate is gonna ruin the joints strength.
the vinegar is probably better for hard woods, with closed grain.
 

EJstrat&JVM

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Yes, practice with scrap wood, you will find out the magic of hide glue. For example if something goes wrong, or there is a tiny gap, you can apply steam from the kettle, which will expand the wood cells and the gap will magically disappear.
Violins and violas drop often on the floor, and consider that they don't have a big glued surface area like a solid body guitar, they have just a tiny glued surface to rely on.
Vinegar is a great thinning device for linseed oil varnish, but I never read anything about using it in hide glue.
 
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El Gringo

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Yes, my suggestion is to use hide glue normally. All violin luthiers at maestronet will confirm this, no vinegar, and no aluminium. Use the light trick to spot gaps in the joint. I had no problem in warming it in a microwave:D
Well if that's what they did , or do for Violins then that's good enough for me .
 

ELS

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I found out that egg whites are composed of just water and various proteins, and since egg whites can be used as weak glue just by themselves.
I wonder if you could add egg white to gelatin to improve it's flexibility and wetting.
I'll go see if it does improve anything
 
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