Marshall DSL 50/100 Clean/Crunch Footswitch - at last!

[Blacque Jacque]

Just to let those folks asking about this know, I've been in touch with Graham / een7gdr & a new batch of modules will be available soon.

He's busy with other things but should be back on the scene before too long.

I'm sure he will post here himself when he's ready.

Sit tight & be patient.

 

[Stymie13]

Great news, thanks for sharing. I can vouch for these kits as they are fantastic! Very well designed and constructed with easy DIY instructions. Makes the JCM 2000 DSL heads even more flexible.

 

[Nedrick]

Hello all

I'm glad to see some activity here. I have my amp in the shop trying to get this installed. The tech has some questions. He says:

The supplier alludes to the fact that the extra controls will lower the resistance by half leading one to assume that the supplied controls would be wired in parallel with the existing controls that are not being removed as they are in the original kit instructions. I need to verify this. I assume that the three leads shown on the kit boards are to go back down to the main board, but maybe not. If so, in the case of the "custom" install, where do they go to if anywhere. Then where did the trim control go for evening out the level between the two channels. If you look at the original kit instructions it is shown, but on these boards it is gone. Is it omitted on purpose, or by accident? If it is supposed to be there then what value is it? I have included a photo of one of the boards for reference and a copy of the original instructions which clearly do not cover this particular install.


I added some attachments with the photo's. The original instructions are in PDF and to large to attach here. If you need them to refresh your memory, let me know and I could e-mail them to you if need be. I sent a PM to Graham a while back but haven't heard from him. If anybody could shed some light on this I would be most grateful, as the amp is just sitting in the shop.

Thanks in advance

Ned

 

[Blacque Jacque]

Hi Nedrick, which version of the kit did you buy ?

As I recall there are 3 variants:
A bare switching kit
Switching with internal volume adjust (the missing pot in the first pic)
Switching with a conventional front panel volume.

From your second pic, you seem to have two bare switching kits connected together ?

 

[Nedrick]

Hi Blacque

I chose option three, hence the additional pots. I bought two kits so I could switch the red channel as well. From what I can tell, the parts are all the same regardless of the option, but I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to getting into the guts of things.The second pic was one supplied by Graham. The first was from the tech and I'm pretty clueless about it.

As an aside, the tech installed it without sacrificing one of the reverb controls. This was critical for me, but for a lot of people it doesn't seem to be a big issue.

Thanks for the response Blacque. Let me know if you think of any more info you might need.

Regards

Ned

 

[Nedrick]

Hey Blacque

I don't know if this helps but here's what Graham wrote when he sent me the second pic.


I have attached a photo showing the cable connections of the 2 mods.

On the left of the picture is the standard kit. The jack PCB attaches as per the install guide, connecting J13 (one of the 2 labelled P/Through) by the short cable to CON5. J14 connects to the 1st kit (with the full 12 legs) as per the guide. The 2nd P/Through connector (J12) should then be linked to one of the P/Through connectors on the 2nd jack J13. J12 on the 2nd jack can then be connected to the amp cable that was originally plugged into CON5 (as per the guide). Finally, the J14 connector should link to the 2nd Kit with the 6 legs that will replace the lead 1/2 switch.

With all the extra load on the 24V supply, I would suggest lowering the power current limit resistor R21 on the circuit below from 100ohms to something like 80 - 90 ohms. This will boost the 24V supply a little. It is a very basic circuit with no regulation but is designed to supply the 24V relays with a voltage high enough to operate them but not too high. As the load current increases, the voltage decreases, hence lowering the resistor should help in this matter. The choice however should be up to your engineer as he can make measurements in circuit to determine what best to do.

Ned

 

[Blacque Jacque]

Ok, so you're switching lead 1/2 as well, that explains why there are two kits.

If you don't have a second volume control for the lead 1 / 2 switch that would account for the "missing" pot & empty connections on that particular board.

Reading Graham's additional notes it makes sense to me. Details of where every connector goes are listed, but as your kit is customised, and I have neither a kit nor an open DSL in front of me I can't say with absolute certainty.

 

[Nedrick]

There is a volume pot for lead 1/2 as well. I thought he might be having problems with just this side but I believe he said he couldn't hook up the green side either. aaaakkkkk

 

[Blacque Jacque]

The second vol pot has probably been left with enough wire to mount it wherever practical, unless your tech is saying it's missing. You *did* give him all the parts didn't you? or were you expecting to supply the pot yourself ?.

To be brutally honest, given how easily others have fitted these kits, I am beginning to question the ability of your tech. That may be unfounded, but from the information you have presented, it does imply he is struggling with what *appears* to be a relatively simple job.

Sorry, but that's how it seems to me.

 

[Nedrick]

He has both the pots. As to your conclusion, quite frankly I'm thinking you might be right.

Thanks

Ned

 

[rcm81]

Hey Guys I know this is a bit of an old thread but does anyone know if you can still get this mod?

Cheers, Ryan

 

[SpiderMurphy]

Hi, I also would buy this mod ! PM already sent....

 

[num1dano]

I'm new here , is there threads for the dsl40 mods like this anywhere on site yet? I found the c19 fizzle remover but i cant find it here (on todays site ) am i not looking in the right spot? Thanks

 

[Micky]

http://www.marshallforum.com/marshall-amps/53780-official-marshall-dsl40c-information-thread.html

 

[jore114]

Hello fellow Marshall aficionados. Got word from Graham (een7gdr) that he will be back from holiday early part of October. He apologizes for slow responses to inquiries as internet availability is a bit sketchy where he's at. The Master modifier of the jcm 2000 dsl 50/100 continus work on his clean/crunch footswitch with volume matching and expects to fill all orders of this fine modification. Thank you for reading.

 

[CodeMonkey]

Hello fellow Marshall aficionados. Got word from Graham (een7gdr) that he will be back from holiday early part of October. He apologizes for slow responses to inquiries as internet availability is a bit sketchy where he's at. The Master modifier of the jcm 2000 dsl 50/100 continus work on his clean/crunch footswitch with volume matching and expects to fill all orders of this fine modification. Thank you for reading.

Where, exactly, can one place an order? I don't mind waiting . . . but I'd like to get the ball rolling!

-Dave

 

[jore114]

Where, exactly, can one place an order? I don't mind waiting . . . but I'd like to get the ball rolling!

-Dave

Try sending him an IM thru here. He may get online while on vacation but it's unlikely. He said he'd be back in October.

 

[Blacque Jacque]

A bump to keep this thread alive.

Looking forward to Graham's return so I can order the kits.

 

[CodeMonkey]

re-bump . . . no PM response, past October

 

[RickyLee]

I might want to order another one myself for the second DSL100 I have. I still have not installed the kit I got to switch between the Red OD1/OD2. Actually not sure if I want to do that mod on the DSL100 that already has the Clean Crunch mod.

I might just put this last kit on that second DSL100 that is still stock. This DSL100 is a bit of a freak as it sounds outstanding in stock form. Even the Red channel with its bright cap in there sounds outstanding. It is not as bright as my first DSL100 was, and without the huge tone difference between the Green and Red.