New Harley Benton PA-250 Attenuator

[Moony]

and thus his videos are not very enjoyable/fun to watch.

The good thing is that nobody needs to watch them.
You can also skip the most and jump to his "my 2 cents" so that saves your time and nerves.

 

[jeffb]

The good thing is that nobody needs to watch them.
You can also skip the most and jump to his "my 2 cents" so that saves your time and nerves.

That is what I do, if it's a piece of gear I'm really interested in.

That said, much of youtube is entertainment for me, so I prefer people I can relate to/enjoy watching/listening to.

 

[Tatzmann]

Got the Benton PA250 in today.

Thomann didnt get their shipment in on
time, but i could get one second hand.



I could play it today for couple minutes but only
at very low volume since we got company.

I have to test it out a couple of times before i
can say anything about it really.

There are some things that i didnt like right
right away, and some that i liked right away,
but i need a little time with it to write a short
review.

I'm going to open it up sometime to see whats
going on inside, but dont think its a direct copy
of another product, more an "inspired by".

 

[Maxbrothman]

How are you getting on with yours?

It is better than the cheaper one they had before. I was able to bring the SC20h on full mode down by 15 dB and then some fine-tuning. I measured somewhere around 85 dB in the room (loud but tolerable) when I recorded this but you can easily go down much lower by turning the fine-tuning dial more to the right.

 

[PelliX]

@Tatzmann any update on the review, gutshots et al?

 

[Maxbrothman]

This was done on a Plexi, SV20h, jumped, both volumes around noon and with a Treble booster at 80 dB using the attenuator.

 

[Maxbrothman]

This next one is 70dB. This one is NOT treble-boosted. So I don't know how it would sit in the mix.

I had the gain on my Audio Input Device at 100% to get into the green because this was 70dB. My keyboard tapping was loud enough to be detected by the mics (not in the video). Yet check out the results. I think this is probably -30dB to -40 dB from where this 20W can be.

 

[JohnH]

Thanks for the tests which sound pretty good!

To further demonstrate how well an attenuator is working, if possible, play a short riff and record it at full volume and then the same at a low attenuated volume, then normalize the recorded volumes to the same level. A loop is even better! If needed, you can adjust mic input levels for each recording so headroom is ok, but keep the amp set the same.

This let's you hear how well the attenuator keeps tone consistent while reducing volume.

 

[Maxbrothman]

Thanks for the tests which sound pretty good!

To further demonstrate how well an attenuator is working, if possible, play a short riff and record it at full volume and then the same at a low attenuated volume, then normalize the recorded volumes to the same level. A loop is even better! If needed, you can adjust mic input levels for each recording so headroom is ok, but keep the amp set the same.

This let's you hear how well the attenuator keeps tone consistent while reducing volume.

What I would also have to do, though, is also adjust the gain input of the audio input device.

I have a Focusrite 18/20i. The input is at its highest (maxed out) at the highest attenuation.

As I lower the attenuation, the gain input will start to red-line, so I also have to adjust this.

I have a looper pedal (Boss RC1), so I think it is possible to do this.

 

[purpleplexi]

Lot of these videos show people playing chords with a bit of gain which in fairness masks the tonal losses. When you get into soloing and single notes that's when you hear the difference. I watched a few videos on this one and I thought I'd get one but in the end I talked myself out of it. Keep thinking I'll get a tone king mini but the price......

 

[Maxbrothman]

Lot of these videos show people playing chords with a bit of gain which in fairness masks the tonal losses. When you get into soloing and single notes that's when you hear the difference. I watched a few videos on this one and I thought I'd get one but in the end I talked myself out of it. Keep thinking I'll get a tone king mini but the price......

Price difference is what did the talking for me. Even if there is tonal loss I don't think you're going to care unless it's a big tone suck. The fact I was playing a Plexi that should have been ear killing loud but at talking volume is an experience. I'm loving it because it didn't cost more than a night out with beer rounds.

 

[Maxbrothman]

I used the 4v SAG option on the Voodoo Labs PP2 for the Dunlop Fuzz Face Mini. I didn't dial the fuzz face on max as I felt everything just went to mud.

70 dB again.

 

[Maxbrothman]

I changed the SAG to 6.5v, and the top end came back. I was able to dial the fuzz up a bit more.

 

[Tatzmann]

The PA250 is a good enough attenuator for
me. I suppose its the best you can get in the
lower budget leaque.

Its way more unobtrusive than the PA100 aka
Jettenuator or as i call it the Ballcutting Dullomator.

As long as you stay in the realm of loud, means
only cutting -6 or max -12db the sound stays
relatively unchanged. You go further and the
crippling effects of a bored speakercab kick
in, but that has nothing to do with any specific
attenuator.

Couple of things.

*Upon first connecting of the apparatus a feature that im not very fond of revealed itself.

Some speakercables pop out the jacks upon the smallest of movement. Others stay more steady in the hole.

Not good.

(I havent investigated yet why there is no
grippage, but its definately a matter of too
short a plug instead of too thin.
The same cables that pop out stick very
firm inside the Benton PA100 which judging
by the looks use exactly the same jacksockets.

For a shortterm or i-have-no-money solution I guess one could try to scrape of some of the rubbermaterial on the end of the plug, that is if its one of the shalt-not-resolder rubbery plugs,
which it is in my case.)

Just be prepared to buy different speakercables with a firmly gripping plug.

*Rubberfeet not tall enough. A unit like this
must stand firm on its feet atop of an amp, unless one likes the sound of silence mixed
with a big bash from 3 pounds of metal hitting
the precious hardwoodfloor and a creeping stench of molten transformerwire.
Such an incident can have serious impact,
like your downstairs elderly lady calling the
cops or your girlfriend giving you the no sex
for 2 weeks treatment. Serious problem.

* Needs a handle. Metalcasing, rounded edges,
2.5kg, might be hot, guitar around the neck,
sweaty hands. Bevereages, the need to pee.
Duh!

* Manual states there is a safety clipping LED.
There isnt, its just a power LED that indicates
that the apparatus is doing its thing.
I guess its just a misinformation at either the
writer of the manual or the company that designed it.
Or, what could be a possibility is that the red
LED turns green or busts into flames upon
a certain threshold, might shoot laserbeams,
who knows? Certainly not the writer of the manual or the vendor! Find out for yourself!

*Now to the D.I-out. Well that precious
fruit from the posted video must have had
some impedance crap going on with his
interface or whatever other problem that
day, because i can get perfect cleans out
of it, even with the output pot turned up
high. It works 100% fine.

(Remember, i have one of the first batch units,
not from the recent shipment which might
has undergone changes on the DI because
Baldy had technical difficulties)

Like all attenuators that i had, some amps
work better with it than others. I think i heard
some type of faint whine behind the signal
with one of my amps, but im not entirely sure.
The Rockcrusher had a similar complaint
on some reviews.

So far i can without a doubt recommend it
to anyone that needs to tame down an amp
at a gig or at rehearsal situation.

 

[b-spot]

Is

The PA250 is a good enough attenuator for
me. I suppose its the best you can get in the
lower budget leaque.

Its way more unobtrusive than the PA100 aka
Jettenuator or as i call it the Ballcutting Dullomator.

As long as you stay in the realm of loud, means
only cutting -6 or max -12db the sound stays
relatively unchanged. You go further and the
crippling effects of a bored speakercab kick
in, but that has nothing to do with any specific
attenuator.

Couple of things.

*Upon first connecting of the apparatus a feature that im not very fond of revealed itself.

Some speakercables pop out the jacks upon the smallest of movement. Others stay more steady in the hole.

Not good.

(I havent investigated yet why there is no
grippage, but its definately a matter of too
short a plug instead of too thin.
The same cables that pop out stick very
firm inside the Benton PA100 which judging
by the looks use exactly the same jacksockets.

For a shortterm or i-have-no-money solution I guess one could try to scrape of some of the rubbermaterial on the end of the plug, that is if its one of the shalt-not-resolder rubbery plugs,
which it is in my case.)

Just be prepared to buy different speakercables with a firmly gripping plug.

*Rubberfeet not tall enough. A unit like this
must stand firm on its feet atop of an amp, unless one likes the sound of silence mixed
with a big bash from 3 pounds of metal hitting
the precious hardwoodfloor and a creeping stench of molten transformerwire.
Such an incident can have serious impact,
like your downstairs elderly lady calling the
cops or your girlfriend giving you the no sex
for 2 weeks treatment. Serious problem.

* Needs a handle. Metalcasing, rounded edges,
2.5kg, might be hot, guitar around the neck,
sweaty hands.
Duh!

* Manual states there is a safety clipping LED.
There isnt, its just a power LED that indicates
that the apparatus is doing its thing.
I guess its just a misinformation at either the
writer of the manual or the company that designed it.
Or, what could be a possibility is that the red
LED turns green or busts into flames upon
a certain threshold, might shoot laserbeams,
who knows? Certainly not the writer of the manual or the vendor! Find out for yourself!

*Now to the D.I-out. Well that precious
fruit from the posted video must have had
some impedance crap going on with his
interface or whatever other problem that
day, because i can get perfect cleans out
of it, even with the output pot turned up
high. It works 100% fine.

(Remember, i have one of the first batch units,
not from the recent shipment which might
has undergone changes on the DI because
Baldy had technical difficulties)

Like all attenuators that i had, some amps
work better with it than others. I think i heard
some type of faint whine behind the signal
with one of my amps, but im not entirely sure.
The Rockcrusher had a similar complaint
on some reviews.

So far i can without a doubt recommend it
to anyone that needs to tame down an amp
at a gig or at rehearsal situation.

Is there any chance you can take the lid off and post pics of it's internals? (assuming that's allowed on this forum, apologies if it)

 

[Tatzmann]

I'll do that if the mood strikes me or once upon
the leadfree solderjoints crack from heat.

It might be wise to use the power supply option for constant fanning if the unit is parked on a big ol' 200watt pig.

 

[Wmacky1]

+1 would love to see the interior.

It's said to be based on ther reative rock crusher, but everyone says it's resitive? Anyone konw for sure?

 

[Maxbrothman]

The PA250 is a good enough attenuator for
me. I suppose its the best you can get in the
lower budget leaque.

Its way more unobtrusive than the PA100 aka
Jettenuator or as i call it the Ballcutting Dullomator.

As long as you stay in the realm of loud, means
only cutting -6 or max -12db the sound stays
relatively unchanged. You go further and the
crippling effects of a bored speakercab kick
in, but that has nothing to do with any specific
attenuator.

Couple of things.

*Upon first connecting of the apparatus a feature that im not very fond of revealed itself.

Some speakercables pop out the jacks upon the smallest of movement. Others stay more steady in the hole.

Not good.

(I havent investigated yet why there is no
grippage, but its definately a matter of too
short a plug instead of too thin.
The same cables that pop out stick very
firm inside the Benton PA100 which judging
by the looks use exactly the same jacksockets.

For a shortterm or i-have-no-money solution I guess one could try to scrape of some of the rubbermaterial on the end of the plug, that is if its one of the shalt-not-resolder rubbery plugs,
which it is in my case.)

Just be prepared to buy different speakercables with a firmly gripping plug.

*Rubberfeet not tall enough. A unit like this
must stand firm on its feet atop of an amp, unless one likes the sound of silence mixed
with a big bash from 3 pounds of metal hitting
the precious hardwoodfloor and a creeping stench of molten transformerwire.
Such an incident can have serious impact,
like your downstairs elderly lady calling the
cops or your girlfriend giving you the no sex
for 2 weeks treatment. Serious problem.

* Needs a handle. Metalcasing, rounded edges,
2.5kg, might be hot, guitar around the neck,
sweaty hands. Bevereages, the need to pee.
Duh!

* Manual states there is a safety clipping LED.
There isnt, its just a power LED that indicates
that the apparatus is doing its thing.
I guess its just a misinformation at either the
writer of the manual or the company that designed it.
Or, what could be a possibility is that the red
LED turns green or busts into flames upon
a certain threshold, might shoot laserbeams,
who knows? Certainly not the writer of the manual or the vendor! Find out for yourself!

*Now to the D.I-out. Well that precious
fruit from the posted video must have had
some impedance crap going on with his
interface or whatever other problem that
day, because i can get perfect cleans out
of it, even with the output pot turned up
high. It works 100% fine.

(Remember, i have one of the first batch units,
not from the recent shipment which might
has undergone changes on the DI because
Baldy had technical difficulties)

Like all attenuators that i had, some amps
work better with it than others. I think i heard
some type of faint whine behind the signal
with one of my amps, but im not entirely sure.
The Rockcrusher had a similar complaint
on some reviews.

So far i can without a doubt recommend it
to anyone that needs to tame down an amp
at a gig or at rehearsal situation.

I had the same problem with speaker cable slippage. You have to find cables that work and click in, which I did.

I heard that Thomann corrected the gain issue on the line out. So you might want to see if you can get an exchange. I haven't tried that myself yet, though.

Here is some Brothers in Arms. I did this on one of the highest settings because I played after midnight. You could talk over this sound. Again the microphone gain on the audio input device is near MAX. This sounds clean, except when I hit chords for a little Knopfler crunch.

 

[Capriccio]

so...I bought it and I was impressed, it works perfectly, .... I had the rivera rockcrusher, excellent, but like everyone it alters the sound slightly (even with the harley benton, for sure) but it costs 6 times more .... I wonder how this is possible?

 

[Maxbrothman]

so...I bought it and I was impressed, it works perfectly, .... I had the rivera rockcrusher, excellent, but like everyone it alters the sound slightly (even with the harley benton, for sure) but it costs 6 times more .... I wonder how this is possible?

Gear is severely overpriced. There is no way we can justify the cost of an amp or guitar to anybody just based on what we are showing them. It isn't there in physical form. The money disappears in a black hole of various corporate explanations which could be true or false. We just don't know but I'd bet on brand tax being where the money goes and less likely into the pockets of the workers.

Today they might have excuses but not before COVID.