Matthews Guitars
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The 1977 JMP 2203 model amp that I picked up does not have its back panel on the chassis, and I want to do something about that.
So far I haven't found a single one available anywhere. Given how good I am at searching out odd things, that means they're pretty scarce indeed. At least as available spares.
So I'm asking for help. If you have a late 70s JMP 2203 model, can you take some really good pictures of the back panel and post them? I'm trying to get artwork that's good enough that digital drawings can be made of them so I can get the panel accurately reproduced. The gold anodized, brush finished aluminum plate is easy enough. With good artwork I can get a local shop to print it, no hassles.
The photos should be made in good even lighting without flash, camera pointed straight on at the panel, for a nice clean rectangular image. It'd be best to have the chassis out of the cabinet. It's OK to make several photos of individual sections of the amp, they can be stitched together digitally later, but the more closely they're matched in size, the better.
My particular amp has a permanently attached (not socketed) power cord and no input voltage selector. The original speaker impedance selector was the plug-in jumper type. I can probably work with other versions as they can be edited in photoshop or whatever the printer uses.
So far I haven't found a single one available anywhere. Given how good I am at searching out odd things, that means they're pretty scarce indeed. At least as available spares.
So I'm asking for help. If you have a late 70s JMP 2203 model, can you take some really good pictures of the back panel and post them? I'm trying to get artwork that's good enough that digital drawings can be made of them so I can get the panel accurately reproduced. The gold anodized, brush finished aluminum plate is easy enough. With good artwork I can get a local shop to print it, no hassles.
The photos should be made in good even lighting without flash, camera pointed straight on at the panel, for a nice clean rectangular image. It'd be best to have the chassis out of the cabinet. It's OK to make several photos of individual sections of the amp, they can be stitched together digitally later, but the more closely they're matched in size, the better.
My particular amp has a permanently attached (not socketed) power cord and no input voltage selector. The original speaker impedance selector was the plug-in jumper type. I can probably work with other versions as they can be edited in photoshop or whatever the printer uses.