Preamp Tubes? - Who, What, When, Where, Why, and How?

[MartyStrat54]

Man, I'd love to hear a good NOS tube in my Jub.

"Tube in my Jub"? That sounds dirty....and it rhymes. Maybe a song title? LOL!

I'd love to just pop on in there for a few minutes just to see if it's worth the expense.

I'm not familiar with that amp. Does it have the standard four preamp tubes? If so, you can make a world of difference with an NOS V1 and V2.

I tell people that you don't have to go straight to the exotics. A good RCA 12AX7A in V1 and a Raytheon Black Plate in V2 will make a huge tonal difference in your amp. I then recommend that you put a Sylvania Gray Plate in V3. A lot of current production tubes are failing in V3. However, an NOS tube handles it with ease.

You ought to give them a go...Mr. Super Moderator.

 

[MartyStrat54]

I've been replenishing my stock of Telefunkens. I just got eight more in. Six were smooth plate and two were ribbed. I got another 12 in last week. Eight were from the same seller.

I've been buying more of these as I have gotten low. I guess I sort of forgot how nice a 26-26 Tele is in V1. It's a toss up between an Amperex and a Tele. I think in most boutique amps a Tele just crushes in V1. I finally met a guy with a Twister amp over the weekend. He had the F3. He had a smooth plate Tele in V1, an RCA 12AX7 (1959 Gray Plate) in V2 and a GE in V3. Neither tube was a high gainer, but in that amp it didn't matter. I posted a link on another thread about a guy looking for the ideal amp and I put down Fuchs and Twister. Joe, well he likes the Greasy Monkey (that just doesn't sound right).

Anyway, this guy comes by and boy what a nice amp. Twister says that it is not a JCM800, or a JCM900, or a 1987, or a 2204. Well, whatever it is it sounded really good. It could get gritty and do the Marshall thing pretty good. It comes with EL34's, but it will bias up to 6L6's and KT66's. Please note: No IC or SS in this amp.

He had a 212 cab with Weber's in it. It was a close back so I couldn't see what model they were.

He played a USA Tele with custom pick ups made somewhere in Texas. I think I remember seeing the website before. I plugged my Explorer into it and it has some really hot pickups. I could get the amp to do controlled squeals. It was awesome.

However, back to the Telefunken. I think it gave that amp a lot of personality.

He had the Blue head. I really liked this one Joe.

Twister Handbuilt Guitar Amplifiers - Dayton, Ohio

 

[solarburn]

I've been replenishing my stock of Telefunkens. I just got eight more in. Six were smooth plate and two were ribbed. I got another 12 in last week. Eight were from the same seller.

I've been buying more of these as I have gotten low. I guess I sort of forgot how nice a 26-26 Tele is in V1. It's a toss up between an Amperex and a Tele. I think in most boutique amps a Tele just crushes in V1. I finally met a guy with a Twister amp over the weekend. He had the F3. He had a smooth plate Tele in V1, an RCA 12AX7 (1959 Gray Plate) in V2 and a GE in V3. Neither tube was a high gainer, but in that amp it didn't matter. I posted a link on another thread about a guy looking for the ideal amp and I put down Fuchs and Twister. Joe, well he likes the Greasy Monkey (that just doesn't sound right).

Anyway, this guy comes by and boy what a nice amp. Twister says that it is not a JCM800, or a JCM900, or a 1987, or a 2204. Well, whatever it is it sounded really good. It could get gritty and do the Marshall thing pretty good. It comes with EL34's, but it will bias up to 6L6's and KT66's. Please note: No IC or SS in this amp.

He had a 212 cab with Weber's in it. It was a close back so I couldn't see what model they were.

He played a USA Tele with custom pick ups made somewhere in Texas. I think I remember seeing the website before. I plugged my Explorer into it and it has some really hot pickups. I could get the amp to do controlled squeals. It was awesome.

However, back to the Telefunken. I think it gave that amp a lot of personality.

He had the Blue head. I really liked this one Joe.

Twister Handbuilt Guitar Amplifiers - Dayton, Ohio

Its "Grease Monkey" not Greasy Monkey. That just ain't right! Haha. The price on the Twister isn't in outer space either. Wish there were more clips of it on the site. So it had good dynamics, feel and sustain? That's a what I like. Oh and can it get GREASEY hehe? Must have been good to get your attention. I'll have to keep Twister on my radar and see if I can find some more clips somewhere.

You know the Telefunken is a tube I don't have or heard. Is it better in a vintage amp then say like a DSL or will it sound good there too. How about my Night Train? Its not like I play heavy metal...

 

[RiverRatt]

Marty, thanks for all the help. The amp is sounding GREAT. Got the Mullard in V1, Raytheon BP in V2, Sylvania in V3 and a RFT 7025A in V4. I'm finding a LOT to like about this setup.

I'd like to hear your views on different tube tester readings. It would be extremely helpful to have a guide that explains Hickok numbers vs. B&K numbers, etc. For instance, that 1966 short gray plate Mullard I picked up tested fairly low at 1575/1600 out of 3000 on a Hickok, but it's got gain for days and sounds better than a lot of new tubes I've tried.

 

[RiverRatt]

I'm not familiar with that amp. Does it have the standard four preamp tubes? If so, you can make a world of difference with an NOS V1 and V2.

I tell people that you don't have to go straight to the exotics. A good RCA 12AX7A in V1 and a Raytheon Black Plate in V2 will make a huge tonal difference in your amp. I then recommend that you put a Sylvania Gray Plate in V3. A lot of current production tubes are failing in V3. However, an NOS tube handles it with ease.

You ought to give them a go...Mr. Super Moderator.

I checked the schematic and it uses 3 preamp tubes.

 

[Procter2812]

When I was that age, we did more productive stuff, like making bongs out of common household items.

Now thats what i call productive

 

[Jesstaa]

Now thats what i call productive

I agree, Ratt, got any tips? I made a nice one out of a listerine bottle =D
Minty fresh.

 

[zimske]

so, finally got a hold of my camera to snap some photos of the tubes that were in my 2203. the labels are worn of, almost completely, but if anyone can tell, or at least narrow the range, of what these could be, that'd be awesome.
the first tube has couple of smudges that could perhaps be identifiable, but the second only has that tiny little smudglet and could be a little bit difficult to tell.

anyway, here goes...!

 

[Adwex]

I'm not familiar with that amp. Does it have the standard four preamp tubes? If so, you can make a world of difference with an NOS V1 and V2.

<snip>....

Sorry...

Jub = Silver Jubilee

It has 3 preamp tubes.

 

[RiverRatt]

so, finally got a hold of my camera to snap some photos of the tubes that were in my 2203. the labels are worn of, almost completely, but if anyone can tell, or at least narrow the range, of what these could be, that'd be awesome.
the first tube has couple of smudges that could perhaps be identifiable, but the second only has that tiny little smudglet and could be a little bit difficult to tell.

anyway, here goes...!

Those are Tungsrams. Good tubes! The little metal tag on the getter post is a dead giveaway. The double posts on the getter are a good Tungsram identifier, too.

 

[RiverRatt]

I agree, Ratt, got any tips? I made a nice one out of a listerine bottle =D
Minty fresh.

Yes. Brass instrument mouthpieces such as trumpet and french horn make good bowls. You may have to add some tubing to the end to make the mouthpiece long enough. Don't use trombone or tuba mouthpieces unless you have a really big party or a really big stash.

 

[Puffer Fish]

It's a toss up between an Amperex and a Tele. I think in most boutique amps a Tele just crushes in V1. I finally met a guy with a Twister amp over the weekend. He had the F3. He had a smooth plate Tele in V1, an RCA 12AX7 (1959 Gray Plate) in V2 and a GE in V3.....

Hello, I have not been here for awhile, but I could not resist jumping in on all the preamp tube / valve talk! I have not had the opportunity to use any Telefunkens, but I do have a couple Amperex 12ax7s and i think they are fantastic. I was able to find some RCAs and a couple Mullards as well. I cycled them all through a couple amplifiers to listen to the differences. I was pleased with them all, to tell you the truth. I settled with a Mullard in my V1 on my DSL 401, but it was a tough choice. I can't remember what I have in all the rest of the preamp positions, but I have a JJ 12wd7 in one of the sockets to cut/ control gain in OD 1 and OD 2, there is an RCA and an Amperex in the two other spots and I can't remember what I have in the phase inverter.

Marty, if I recall properly, you unload some of those 12ax7s from time to time, is that correct? Let me know if that is the case. Cheers to you all, it is always good to read the insights of you all!

 

[Procter2812]

Awesome....

Just got my Brimar and it appears to be a Mullard Relabeled!

It has the same ECC83 markings as my other Mullard... has a blackburn code... B1A

and has the same construction with 3 ribs and a seam on the top!


7 quid.... now to test it

Alex

 

[solarburn]

It's a toss up between an Amperex and a Tele. I think in most boutique amps a Tele just crushes in V1. I finally met a guy with a Twister amp over the weekend. He had the F3. He had a smooth plate Tele in V1, an RCA 12AX7 (1959 Gray Plate) in V2 and a GE in V3.....

Hello, I have not been here for awhile, but I could not resist jumping in on all the preamp tube / valve talk! I have not had the opportunity to use any Telefunkens, but I do have a couple Amperex 12ax7s and i think they are fantastic. I was able to find some RCAs and a couple Mullards as well. I cycled them all through a couple amplifiers to listen to the differences. I was pleased with them all, to tell you the truth. I settled with a Mullard in my V1 on my DSL 401, but it was a tough choice. I can't remember what I have in all the rest of the preamp positions, but I have a JJ 12wd7 in one of the sockets to cut/ control gain in OD 1 and OD 2, there is an RCA and an Amperex in the two other spots and I can't remember what I have in the phase inverter.

Marty, if I recall properly, you unload some of those 12ax7s from time to time, is that correct? Let me know if that is the case. Cheers to you all, it is always good to read the insights of you all!

Yeah PF he sells them.

It has been a time since you've been around. Welcome back!

I may have to have a lil' talk with Marty about a Telefunken...

 

[MartyStrat54]

Its "Grease Monkey" not Greasy Monkey. That just ain't right! Haha.

Ha-ha-ha!Yeah I knew that, but it made it more "fishy" smelling calling it a greasy monkey. I promise not to make fun of it any more.

 

[MartyStrat54]

Those are Tungsrams. Good tubes! The little metal tag on the getter post is a dead giveaway. The double posts on the getter are a good Tungsram identifier, too.

Yeah nice score ZIMSKE. As Alan stated the little numbered tags are a dead giveaway. They were the only company that did this. Their internal construction is fairly identifiable, but for some tube without any markings left, it can be tough. Philips had an interest in just about all of the tube manufacturers in Britain and Europe, therefore a lot of the 12xx7 tubes had very similar construction.

 

[MartyStrat54]

It's a toss up between an Amperex and a Tele. I think in most boutique amps a Tele just crushes in V1. I finally met a guy with a Twister amp over the weekend. He had the F3. He had a smooth plate Tele in V1, an RCA 12AX7 (1959 Gray Plate) in V2 and a GE in V3.....

Hello, I have not been here for awhile, but I could not resist jumping in on all the preamp tube / valve talk! I have not had the opportunity to use any Telefunkens, but I do have a couple Amperex 12ax7s and i think they are fantastic. I was able to find some RCAs and a couple Mullards as well. I cycled them all through a couple amplifiers to listen to the differences. I was pleased with them all, to tell you the truth. I settled with a Mullard in my V1 on my DSL 401, but it was a tough choice. I can't remember what I have in all the rest of the preamp positions, but I have a JJ 12wd7 in one of the sockets to cut/ control gain in OD 1 and OD 2, there is an RCA and an Amperex in the two other spots and I can't remember what I have in the phase inverter.

Marty, if I recall properly, you unload some of those 12ax7s from time to time, is that correct? Let me know if that is the case. Cheers to you all, it is always good to read the insights of you all!

Well I hope you aren't using an Amperex as your PI tube, cuz that's a waste of a good tube.

I feel the same. The Amperex and the Telefunken are very close in sound, but I think the Telefunken gets a little fatter in the top end when driven hard. The Amperex is a sweet tube and it breaks up with more control so it is tighter sounding at high drive levels.

If you have a couple of Amperex's and some RCA's, you are getting a nice little stash started. The Mullard is the standard for British/European tubes. I love how a Mullard sounds when it is driven hard. Perfect for hard blues...no pedal necessary.

BTW...Welcome back! You've been gone for a while.

 

[MartyStrat54]

Marty, thanks for all the help. The amp is sounding GREAT. Got the Mullard in V1, Raytheon BP in V2, Sylvania in V3 and a RFT 7025A in V4. I'm finding a LOT to like about this setup.

I'd like to hear your views on different tube tester readings. It would be extremely helpful to have a guide that explains Hickok numbers vs. B&K numbers, etc. For instance, that 1966 short gray plate Mullard I picked up tested fairly low at 1575/1600 out of 3000 on a Hickok, but it's got gain for days and sounds better than a lot of new tubes I've tried.

Well that could take awhile since every manufacturer had his own set of test numbers and scale range. Hickok models read differently model from model and the many, many emissions testers out their had all different reading scales.

The best thing is when a seller states the model of tester they are using, what an NOS tube should read and what their tubes read. Then they should state what the minimum is. That way, you can get a good idea of what shape the tube is in.

Just so you know, most (not all) Hickok's state the minimum good value on a 12AX7 is 1250.

As you know, my tester states a good 12AX7 starts at 22. However, a 20-20 tube can still be highly serviceable. I bought some tubes from a guy recently and one of his tubes read 9-6.

 

[RiverRatt]

I've wondered about the Hickok testers. Greengirl said that 1250 was minimum on her tester, but I've seen others say that 1250 is minimum NEW, and that 875 is nominal.

I was just chasing a single 50's Mullard UNTESTED ECC83 that went for $58. That's too much money for a no guarantee tube. That one I was watching Tuesday night went for $19 just because it was branded "Heath by Mullard", I guess.

Speaking of GG, is this a good deal on a Tele? It was listed a couple of dollars higher and nobody bought it.

Vintage Telefunken Fisher 12AX7 ECC83 Stereo Tube <> - eBay (item 400076757582 end time Nov-01-09 11:32:21 PST)

 

[MartyStrat54]

I've wondered about the Hickok testers. Greengirl said that 1250 was minimum on her tester, but I've seen others say that 1250 is minimum NEW, and that 875 is nominal.

I was just chasing a single 50's Mullard UNTESTED ECC83 that went for $58. That's too much money for a no guarantee tube. That one I was watching Tuesday night went for $19 just because it was branded "Heath by Mullard", I guess.

Speaking of GG, is this a good deal on a Tele? It was listed a couple of dollars higher and nobody bought it.

Vintage Telefunken Fisher 12AX7 ECC83 Stereo Tube <> - eBay (item 400076757582 end time Nov-01-09 11:32:21 PST)

$30 to $40 is the average going rate for a Tele. She doesn't state if it is a ribbed or smooth plate. Just so you know, most people prefer the smooth plate. From the picture, it looks to be a real Tele. I bought some Tele's about two weeks ago and they didn't have the diamond on the bottom. I did some research and they were RFT's, but made to Telefunken specifications. They are completely different looking than a regular Tele, but I love the way they sound in V1. Although it says "Telefunken" on the tube, some of the other identifying marks are not on the tube.

Also, be warned that the Chinese are involved in a scam selling fake Tele tubes. It's real easy to tell. The logo's will not rub off as they are painted on. Some of these have made it to EBAY.