Nik Henville
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...With all that said, used properly and as intended, these units are truly worth every penny of that!
Cold
not have
put it any better
than that, my friend.
...With all that said, used properly and as intended, these units are truly worth every penny of that!
...You might just want to consider it and have some fun as well
Hey guys, I am really impressed by all the work that has gone into this thread! I am planning on building one of the 8 ohm versions, and have a question about parts:
1. I am located in the US, is everyone purchasing wire wound resistors off eBay from China?
2. What size screws do you need to attach the resistors to the chassis?
3. What "thermal grease" is being used between the resistors and the chassis?
Thanks for all your help, I can't wait to start building.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...ha2pyFadujQBe3n7F%2B9Vvv1RYtAuHIjZfaEGn/ttN0=Id be interested to find out what toggle switches are being used by others.
My current build uses full-sized toggles, bought locally. They look ok, work fine and have a good spec, but they were suspiciously cheap, less than $3 AUD retail. I found a couple that didn't feel right so I sidelined them. Then, due to a fumble, the box slipped off the amp and hit the floor. Two toggles got pushed in and then didnt feel right. I replaced them, but then opening up the damaged switches I found that the levers had punched through a rather thin internal bakelite panel.
Apart from using a better part, I think some kind of protection to projecting switch levers would be a good idea for units on the road, such as a projecting C shaped handle each side of the switch bank.
Here's the ones I use:
For a pic of how I laid it out, go to post #178. I have since pulled the on pictured apart, bu general layout is still similar.
Hope This Helps,
Gene
Here's the ones I use:
For a pic of how I laid it out, go to post #178. I have since pulled the on pictured apart, bu general layout is still similar.
Hope This Helps,
Gene
Gene -
I looked at your post 178, it said you were having some serious heat issues with your build. Did you get that squared away?
Mike
Mike,
I'm not sure I'd call them "serious" heat issues, and even though it can get pretty hot, that is when I'm "severely brutalizing" the whole rig, much more than I would normally do in practicality! While it can heat up pretty well, it gets to a certain point and stays there, without getting any hotter. A couple thoughts for you:
> It would be a good idea to read at least a few of the posts following that #178, as there are some points fairly pertinent to the build you seem to be shooting for. One of those points is that in my future builds, I will be mounting the resistors on the inside of the top, instead of the bottom and that should improve the cooling substantially.And if you don't mind me asking, what general part of the planet are you located in?
> I don't think you mentioned what amp you intend to use this with? It might help us help you, if we know this?
> As with all projects, you really want to embrace the "Measure Twice, Cut Once" concept here! Think really hard about where your switches and jacks want to be and especially whether you want it mounted into an amp or cabinet. For example, my next one will be intented for mounting inside my DSL20CR, at the bottom and I want the switches accessible through the slot at the bottom. This will require my switches to be on the "sides" as opposed to the ends. Of course then, the next one will be intended for installation in one of the Studio Series heads (not yet sure which one) and that will likely require some rethinking of the enclosure that I use and a redesigned rear panel for the amp!
Have Fun!
Gene
Hi Mike - all sounds good. what kind of power does your amp put out?
Its R1 and R2 that do most of the work in absorbing power, so to help spread heat, you can place them not next to each other, maybe with a less driven one in between. With all 100W resistors, they will add a lot of extra thermal mass which is good. it will take longer to heat up as so the average temperature that it all reaches will be over a longer time, so less max. Also, allow for lots of holes in top and bottom.