SV20 - Bright Cap Mod is Worth it

[TheKman76]

I haven't ready the whole thread so this may have been discussed already.
Does anyone else use a series connecter resistor inline with a bright cap?

I personally like a bright cap in the 470p range whether on a gain/volume pot or on the inter-stage attenuator. This will admit a good range of highs and upper mids, but it can be a little piercing sometimes. Recently I've started adding an inline resistor in series with the bright cap in the 100k to 330k range. Still admits the highs and upper mids but at a level which is a little more pleasing.

 

[svinyard]

I think some of what you guys are bumping into could be solved with a speaker/cab & setup solution rather than changing the circuit. (Credit to Gene)

I think there is a fundamental difference to using 4-holers that is lost to many who just put the loudness where they want it and then run their guitar knobs at typical 8-10.

If you do that, you aren't using the bright cap or your the full range of your guitar controls. It's a system where they work together more so than a master volume amp. And it's a system that works well (with good cab) without gimping the stock cap. Use the dang bright cap!

1- Put Guitar Volume and Tone knobs at 5 (yes 5, for starters)
2- Turn the amp up until you've hit the bright cap’s sweet spot for your sound (prob around 6 to 8)
3- Jumper for desired level of thickness/low-end (you'll lose a bit of dynamics but it has a LOT of dynamics already)...adjust loudness 2 for blending your tone.
4- Adjust guitar volume to desired level of breakup (I'll literally run between 2 and 10 on my guitar and it sounds incredible)...guitar at 2 will be a beautiful clean. 4-5 its crunchy.
5- Adjust tone knob on guitar for brightness or darker (imagine using your tone knob!)

It's a system that works together before everyone had 8k pedals to make their amp sound like something else. (pedals work great on the SV btw, but the stock breakup is so good I don't like losing it)

With this you've got an incredible clean, Crunch and multiple levels of boost and Van Halen gain...and a quick tone adjust too for those dark melodic melody songs. I play it clean ALL the time because it sounds great, anyone that says otherwise is full of it. With the Andy Timmons Halo delay, its REALLY good...especially with some hair on it.

It's all at your finger tips and the bright cap will be fully engaged and custom tuned to your ear. You'll have a ton of leeway on your guitar knobs and WAY more flexibility.

Its also like having the following for free:
1- Volume pedal
2- Two or three overdrive/boost pedals
3- Tone changer (I'm sure one of these exist)

I gig like this with Delay/Reverb in the loop and its REALLY handy and I don't need all the pedals either. From clean to crunch, its all there and sounds great. But if you treat it like a Master Volume Marshall or solid state amp...you aren't getting half of its tone and usability. If you drop your bright cap, then you lose the upper Loudness sweet spot and are committing the bright caps sweet spot at a much lesser zone. So then the tone isn't as good when you crank it past that spot. (bright caps all have a sweet spot zone if you've listened to a system that has a switchable one...the big ones are good!).

 

[What?]

^ A big value bright cap is a good thing on a 4-holer. My plexi clone was the first amp that I have owned that I had to learn to utilize the volume and tone controls on the guitar.

 

[vivanchenko]

Understood...but, I prefer a lower-mid gain with that classic Marshall voice.

That's not what made Marshalls famous. If you like more emphasis on lower mids you should look elsewhere. Marshalls are very bright amps. Hiwatts are even more so. Both should be played cranked.

 

[What?]

^ A big value bright cap is a good thing on a 4-holer. My plexi clone was the first amp that I have owned that I had to learn to utilize the volume and tone controls on the guitar.

I should add to this that after figuring out needing to use the volume and tone controls on my plexi clone, I figured out that it works well on my DSL 50 too. Lots of people have complained about an upper frequency annoyance on the JCM 2000 amps. Try using the tone and volume controls on your guitar. It really makes a difference.

 

[goldtop0]

That's not what made Marshalls famous. If you like more emphasis on lower mids you should look elsewhere. Marshalls are very bright amps. Hiwatts are even more so. Both should be played cranked.

The JTM45 started it off back in '63 and for me that's the 'go to' tone, it's not a bright amp.
Subsequent models JMP etc offered more top end but I wouldn't say any of them are bright sparkly units, they have crunch and grunt more so, power and presence.

 

[Frank Araneo]

That's not what made Marshalls famous. If you like more emphasis on lower mids you should look elsewhere. Marshalls are very bright amps. Hiwatts are even more so. Both should be played cranked.

Thanks. Never said I "like more emphasis on lower mids". I've been playing guitar since the early 70's. I'm familiar with a wide range of gear and know what I want/need. I've owned a number of Marshalls over the years (along with Boogies, Fenders, Ampegs, Orange, Acoustic, etc..), and currently own three. I like this amp because of its portability and it's tone/feel. I don't have the too-bright/brittle issue with my '86 JCM or my '76 1987. I can dial these amps to my liking. With the 100pf bright cap, I can now dial the SV to MY liking in a very portable, lower wattage platform. It works for me better now. My band mates agree.

While I realize each piece of gear has its own particular strengths and weaknesses, the way "an amp should be played" is determined by the player. I own an original Boogie Mark IIC+ and rarely (if ever) play it like Metallica. BUT, I get some killer lower-gain tones. If I get the tones I like, isn't that what really matters? Isn't tweaking gear part of the fun! Look at the never-ending supply of after-market gear, pedals, etc..

 

[vivanchenko]

Oh, I see. Only this entire thread doesn't make sense to me, I saw so many comparisons of the Origin vs the SV where a lot of people say that the SV sounded better because it was brighter which = to a "true Plexi character" and stuff like this. Otherewise there was very litle difference, if at all. Now, you guys are dumping this "adwantage"? Might as well bought the Origin , because this way the 2 amps will be virtually indistinguishable in terms of tone. I did try the 2 amps side by side.

 

[Frank Araneo]

Oh, I see. Only this entire thread doesn't make sense to me, I saw so many comparisons of the Origin vs the SV where a lot of people say that the SV sounded better because it was brighter which = to a "true Plexi character" and stuff like this. Otherewise there was very litle difference, if at all. Now, you guys are dumping this "adwantage"? Might as well bought the Origin , because this way the 2 amps will be virtually indistinguishable in terms of tone. I did try the 2 amps side by side.

It's still bright, just not as "harsh" to my ears, and most importantly, for my uses. One thing I appreciate about this amp is the plexi sound and four-hole versatility in a VERY portable package, especially for my aging back - and ears! It doesn't have the feel of my 1987 or JCM800, but it checks lots of other boxes for me.

Modding Marshall's is nothing new, and something that adds to their versatility, IMO. Again, YMMV. If you're happy with what you have, what else matters?

 

[AbstractSnow]

I haven't ready the whole thread so this may have been discussed already.
Does anyone else use a series connecter resistor inline with a bright cap?

I personally like a bright cap in the 470p range whether on a gain/volume pot or on the inter-stage attenuator. This will admit a good range of highs and upper mids, but it can be a little piercing sometimes. Recently I've started adding an inline resistor in series with the bright cap in the 100k to 330k range. Still admits the highs and upper mids but at a level which is a little more pleasing.

I put a rotary switch with a couple of values in mine, sitting where the normal channel low input would be. Got the stock 4n7, a 1n8, 1n8 with resistor, 500pF, and a 100pF in there.

100, 500, and 1n8 with resistor are the only ones I use really.. :') 100 for those beautiful JTM45 cleans and medium gain, 500 for bright jumpered mid to high gain, and 1n8 if I just want more mids and more cut at higher gain.

 

[Frank Araneo]

I put a rotary switch with a couple of values in mine, sitting where the normal channel low input would be. Got the stock 4n7, a 1n8, 1n8 with resistor, 500pF, and a 100pF in there.

100, 500, and 1n8 with resistor are the only ones I use really.. :') 100 for those beautiful JTM45 cleans and medium gain, 500 for bright jumpered mid to high gain, and 1n8 if I just want more mids and more cut at higher gain.

Cool idea!