If you're doing the swap yourself, be sure to label each connector really good. It can get confusing really quick if a few of your labels fall off. Happened to me.
I always let my amp sit around for a couple of days before I take take it apart, that way I know all the caps are discharged.
So, I put everything back together. Was gonna make a video to let everyone hear the oscillations. Hooked up my multimeter to check bias. Turned the amp on. At first there was a little oscillation, then it quit. I checked bias at the bias points and they were about 8 mv off from each side. I...
I have no idea. I guess it would take a scope to find out. Which I don't have. If I can't figure it out with the above suggestions, then I'll take to someone.
MAN, I've been so busy. I'm just getting around to doing something with this situation. I've compared readings to my '99 TSL100, they are almost identical. Only a couple of tenths of an ohm lower. I haven't been able to check anything else due to the fact that my cabinet is not at home...
Ricky, I have not checked R68, or any other bias supply circuit resistors with the amp on. This amp has been modded. It is an extensive list, but not as extensive as my other TSL. I've got half a clue, LOL, but I'm not really sure which resistors that you're talking about? What are the...
Yes, it still makes the "tornado" sounds with the tubes loaded. As stated before, this happened while plugged into the 8 ohm jack. It still makes the "tornado" sound when plugged into the 16 ohm jack also.
It seems that resistors measure fairly quickly on a multimeter. EXCEPT, R68 starts...
I currently run this in my '99 TSL:
V1- Sylvania 12BZ7, this is a NOS tube, but really cheap, $8.95 from TubeDepot.
The rest are CP.
V2- Mullard RI CV4004
V3- Tungsol
V4- EH
For me, it's been met with very good results.
I was using a JJ 803s for a little while also, but I really need to put...
I tried all the tubes in the Mesa. Tube sockets look spotless. Screen resistors check in good. Not sure what you mean by the high/low power switch. All fuses are good. How do I check the OT?
I realize the speaker connection is very important. My head was hooked up a different cab, not...
There are no burned components or arcing on the tube sockets. Looks spotless inside. Screen grid resistors (R 60,65,74,76)and bias resistors (R6, R9) all check out good. Will put back together later in the week to check bias.
I have a JJ803S. It is a basically a long plated ECC83. Good to use in heads. I also have one of the EH's. I use it in V3. Supposed to be a good place for it. I just recently read where you don't have to have a balanced PI tube. So, it doesn't matter what goes there. The stock Marshall...
According to what I just read. That GT is a lower gain tube. Don't know why it's in a DSL. Previous owner must play classic rock and was trying to lower the gain some. It would be a V1 tube if I were looking to use it at all. Here's a little info...
Think you might have a typo. Never heard of 12a7r.
You can put any of those tubes in any order that you like. Or even try different orders. It's called tube rolling. Lots of us here do it.
I was at band rehearsal Sunday. The other guitar player was running late, so he did not bring his rig. He used what was in the room. It was a Mesa Single Rec with a Diamond cab. About halfway through practice, the Mesa just shut down. No power. Fuse blew. I figured something went wrong...
Sorry, you're correct. Pin 3 numbers are first, followed by pin 4. Sorry about the bad pics. It's pretty cramped in there. Made me a little nervous when I was taking readings. Told my wife to check on me if I didn't come out of the shop for a while. Lol!
Thx for your help. Really! I couldn't...
I changed the HT fuse. Pull all the tubes. Turned on. All was good. I did not check voltages till I put the tubes in. Here is what I got.
V1- pins 5 and 9, was the same 7.42v
pin4 pin5
V5- 463v 471v
V6- 462v 469v
V7- 462v 469v
V8- 462v 470v
I believe...