Ceriatone Noob 51 Build

[neikeel]

I have refrained from commenting as we all have different ways that work for us. I like the original method for neatness but would keep the wires tighter (minus the long loops). Quietest method I’ve used is the ‘offset’ type with ground bus.
The important thing (at least in my view) is ensure your plate and grid wires cross the heaters at 90degrees, keeping plates down and grids up. Avoid tension and loops. YMMV

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Thanks for the compliment, I’m not the player my son is, I built them that’s my joy. His joy is the playing and of course I enjoy the playing as well. We have great neighbors and have been in the same house for 22 years and can play as loud as we want, it’s sweet.

And I agree fully with the building part, everybody has their style and what they accept as “acceptable “ work.

I am currently building the Mojotone 800 and will post there in the final outcome of the build. And yes this is the first build with the modified heater wires, I’m liking it should be quite we’ll see.

Your wiring is some of the nicest. I look at that thread and think to myself shoulda been an A&P lol. Definitely looking forward to hearing how the elevated setup works out and if you’ll use it again!for the compliment, My son is the player not me so I take my sweet a$$ time, you only build them once, but you can listen to them forever.

 

[redberon2003]

Power is wired up

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Looking good, what is the blue putty holding the wires down?

 

[redberon2003]

Looking good, what is the blue putty holding the wires down?

Loctite “fun-tak” really nice for holding things down temporarily. Eventually those wires are gonna get a few dabs of silicone to hold them permanently

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Loctite “fun-tak” really nice for holding things down temporarily. Eventually those wires are gonna get a few dabs of silicone to hold them permanently

Huh, that looks like it will work good. I use masking tape, only temporary until I can tie it with lacing cord.

 

[redberon2003]

Made some progress, but of a mish mash of work being done. Got the bias probes hooked up, and the OT/output jacks done. Also started work on tone controls and inputs

 

[redberon2003]

Sorry btw about upside down photos. Looks like they got flipped when I uploaded them.

 

[redberon2003]

Worked on inputs tonight.



Managed to snag one of the jacks with the iron. Not too bad though.

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Looking very nice. Your solder joints look good

 

[redberon2003]

Did some more work on the tone stack, I had been putting it off while planning if I wanted to do underboard/overboard or a mix of the two. Decided to wire it all up top. The tone stack is pretty cluttered and my hands aren’t the smoothest so I’ve opted to check and cut wire lengths for the board and solder them to the tone stack first while I have plenty of room to place things and deal with my shaky hands. Once that’s done I think I’ll get the board in place and populate it in the chassis, wires first around the turrets, then component, then solder item by item wire by wire from PT side to input side so the board is mostly empty and available for hand stabilization. Good thing I’m not a surgeon, lol.

 

[Pete Farrington]

Loctite “fun-tak” really nice for holding things down temporarily.

Yes, I use adhesive putty, eg BluTak, as a 3rd hand to keep wires in place whilst being soldered.

 

[john l]

Another completely happy BluTak advocate here. Just take care not to over heat anything youre using it to hold down lol…..dont ask lol.

 

[redberon2003]

Wires going onto the board. Tonestack side is almost done. Next I’ll work on pre/power amp then populate the board, then effects loop. Starting to see the finish line.

 

[redberon2003]

V1

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Nik likes to use that thin jacketed Teflon type wire. I find it hard to use. When I order a kit from him I get the 9 color 22 AWG wire kit from Amplified parts. It’s not topcoat but it is very nice wire. I like the topcoat the best.

Good job on the build, we love ours. I think the next one is going to be the Ceriatone AH deluxe 50, which is a Friedman 3 channel plexi style.

 

[redberon2003]

Nik likes to use that thin jacketed Teflon type wire. I find it hard to use. When I order a kit from him I get the 9 color 22 AWG wire kit from Amplified parts. It’s not topcoat but it is very nice wire. I like the topcoat the best.

Good job on the build, we love ours. I think the next one is going to be the Ceriatone AH deluxe 50, which is a Friedman 3 channel plexi style.

Making a nice run with that Teflon wire has been more tedious than wiring heaters. Ive worked out a system that’s working for me though, gotta get it nice and straight and solder to the first connection. Once there’s an anchor it’s a lot easier to get it to do what I want. Still a pain. AH looks like a sweet amp! Once I have this one sorted out I wanna start saving for a dumble clone. the addictions started.

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Making a nice run with that Teflon wire has been more tedious than wiring heaters. Ive worked out a system that’s working for me though, gotta get it nice and straight and solder to the first connection. Once there’s an anchor it’s a lot easier to get it to do what I want. Still a pain. AH looks like a sweet amp! Once I have this one sorted out I wanna start saving for a dumble clone. the addictions started.

Very addictive, I’ve built 9 amps since early 2019.
We have one of Niks Dumbles, not sure which one I think it’s the overtone special.
Very efficient circuit, very loud and good headroom. Nice cleans

 

[FourT6and2]

Is that bus bar touching any of the mini toggle switch casings? Hard to tell from the photo. If it is, you might consider redoing it or you'll have ground loops. Teflon (PTFE) wire is nice. I've had best results using Tefzel wire (ETFE). Similar properties, though. I find teflon/tefzel great to work with because it doesn't kink as easy as typical PVC and it resists melting/burning. Also, it's thinner which makes lead dress much easier IMO.

 

[redberon2003]

Is that bus bar touching any of the mini toggle switch casings? Hard to tell from the photo. If it is, you might consider redoing it or you'll have ground loops. Teflon (PTFE) wire is nice. I've had best results using Tefzel wire (ETFE). Similar properties, though. I find teflon/tefzel great to work with because it doesn't kink as easy as typical PVC and it resists melting/burning. Also, it's thinner which makes lead dress much easier IMO.

I’ll have to check out the Tefzel stuff! That build is clean! Bus bar sits about the width of a quarter over all the toggles, tricky to see but it’s there.