Converting a Marshall Origin 20 to Handwired JCM 800 / 2204

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Ronquest

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A while ago I picked up a few Origin 20s and 50s with plans to convert them into turret board builds. After getting the OR20s I found Jason Tong's video on modding the OR20 and gave that a shot for fun. Jason detailed changing the stock circuit to a JCM 800 Jake E Lee spec. Nice little mod, but I already had other plans for the donor Origins.

My goal was to use most of the stock amp parts to build an amp that can easily be modified and repaired in the future. The plan included using the head, chassis, transformers, tubes, switches and lamp, so all I would need is a turret board, pots, jacks, sockets and misc small parts.

The chassis would need a few changes, like relocating the preamp sockets,enlarging the holes for the potentiometers and adding a few standoffs. All in all, not too much and I could retain the stock face plate.

Transformers could remain in their stock locations as could all the holes for pots, jacks, power tube sockets and switches.

I did opt for a Metropoulos loop on this build, unfortunately the jacks don't line up with the stock holes and perhaps on the next build I'll remote mount the loop board or go full tube loop.

The stock amp has a Tilt control, so many things you could do with that extra pot on an 800 circuit. I decided to go with a simple gain control after the second gain stage for more control of clean to overdrive. This stage would be great for a one knob tone like in a Big Muff with a few tweaks you could easily give it a mid boost or cut with a bass / treble tilt! Maybe on the next one.

I've run this amp with the stock EL34s and 6V6s with a quick bias adjustment and both sound great.

*The stock power transformer has an offset center tap so just wire the center taps together (do not ground them) and use a bridge rectifier if you do this build.
With a bridge rectifer and no grounded center tap you'll need to use a Marshall 900 bias circuit.


The preamp schematic is from Mark Huss with Jason Tongs noted Jake E Lee spec changes and was mostly adhered to, so thanks to those guys.
*The voltage on the schematic are not from the Origin, but I will update it someday.


*Any additional build info will also be added here.

As with any build, there's always something I'd do different in the next build, that's the fun of it!

Hope this post helps someone.
 

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Ronquest

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I used the stock transformers, so still ~20 watts. This choice was based on implementation (already designed into the chassis) and keeping the overall cost down. The transformers could be changed and there is enough room to stuff 50 watt transformers in there or just build an Origin 50. The 50 is a larger chassis and has more room to work with, but the stock 50 transformers need shielding or lay down the output transformer to reduce coupling hum, Marshall really dropped the ball on that one and should have used a lay down PT on the 50 like the 20.
I've built both the 20 and 50, played the 20 more, but like the authority of the 50, so this confirms my personal Goldilocks preference of about 30 watts.

No power scaling, I never felt the need with this amp, but it could be implemented.
 

paul-e-mann

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A while ago I picked up a few Origin 20s and 50s with plans to convert them into turret board builds. After getting the OR20s I found Jason Tong's video on modding the OR20 and gave that a shot for fun. Jason detailed changing the stock circuit to a JCM 800 Jake E Lee spec. Nice little mod, but I already had other plans for the donor Origins.

My goal was to use most of the stock amp parts to build an amp that can easily be modified and repaired in the future. The plan included using the head, chassis, transformers, tubes, switches and lamp, so all I would need is a turret board, pots, jacks, sockets and misc small parts.

The chassis would need a few changes, like relocating the preamp sockets,enlarging the holes for the potentiometers and adding a few standoffs. All in all, not too much and I could retain the stock face plate.

Transformers could remain in their stock locations as could all the holes for pots, jacks, power tube sockets and switches.

I did opt for a Metropoulos loop on this build, unfortunately the jacks don't line up with the stock holes and perhaps on the next build I'll remote mount the loop board or go full tube loop.

The stock amp has a Tilt control, so many things you could do with that extra pot on an 800 circuit. I decided to go with a simple gain control after the second gain stage for more control of clean to overdrive. This stage would be great for a one knob tone like in a Big Muff with a few tweaks you could easily give it a mid boost or cut with a bass / treble tilt! Maybe on the next one.

I've run this amp with the stock EL34s and 6V6s with a quick bias adjustment and both sound great.

*The stock power transformer has an offset center tap so just wire the center taps together (do not ground them) and use a bridge rectifier if you do this build.

The preamp schematic is from Mark Huss with Jason Tongs noted Jake E Lee spec changes and was mostly adhered to, so thanks to those guys.
*The voltage on the schematic are not from the Origin, but I will update it soon.


*Any additional build info will also be added here.

As with any build, there's always something I'd do different in the next build, that's the fun of it!

Hope this post helps someone.
I heard you can order a Metro loop with the jacks on leads instead of board mounted so it can be adapted to any hole dimension. Next time...

Interesting project! Got any sound clips?
 

Ronquest

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I heard you can order a Metro loop with the jacks on leads instead of board mounted so it can be adapted to any hole dimension. Next time...

Interesting project! Got any sound clips?
Yes, I should have gone that route. Doing that one right now with a 20 build for a customer. Always refining and always different when it comes to the next amp. I prefer a tube loop and jacks on the front panel, but space is limited and it's getting further away from Marshall normal.

Short phone recording blues, no rock/metal, sorry.

 

locazal185

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Hey Ronquest! Great post! I am about to start this exact same build. Just got the last of the parts yesterday. was hoping to get more info on how you did the rectifier. Also, is that an artificial centertap you made for the yellow wires? Thanks in advance!
 

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Hi, I'll post some details in a few hours. I've refined it a bit since building a few.
 

Ronquest

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Here's the rectifier board picture.
Tie your blue and brown wires on the Power Transformer together (those are the offset taps and you don't want to use those).
Red & White go to your bridge rectifier.
Just keep the rectifier far from your master volume (at least a few inches, more is better)

The heater wires are setup for an artificial center tap. You can ground the center tap or DC elevate it. In this picture, it is set up to be +60 VDC.

The 2 green wires will go to your power lamp.

ALSO: if you can move your Output Transformer away some from your PT it will reduce coupling hum. I recommend before building the amp to do a listening test while moving the OT to find a better position.

In this chassis it is difficult to do a Hot Marshall in a standard type layout without some noise, mostly white noise/hiss. In short, if you're bypass capping every gain stage it won't be a silent amp, then again my tolerance for any noise is relative to my age.
 

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locazal185

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Awesome! Great info! The turret board I purchased has a bridge rectifier on the board. Do you know if its possible to run the yellow wires directly to the el34s?
 

Ronquest

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Awesome! Great info! The turret board I purchased has a bridge rectifier on the board. Do you know if its possible to run the yellow wires directly to the el34s?
The yellow heater wires, Yes. You will want to add an artificial center tap though. You can do that right on the socket if you're just going to ground, but not elevated.
 

locazal185

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Hey Ronquest, what are you getting for B+ voltages? I am only getting 280 off the rectifier and I am measuring 220 & 140 from the red and white wires going into it. Also, I wasn't getting any sound UNLESS I grounded the blue & brown wires? Otherwise, sounds awesome!! I think I'm like $400 all in...
 

Ronquest

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Hey Ronquest, what are you getting for B+ voltages? I am only getting 280 off the rectifier and I am measuring 220 & 140 from the red and white wires going into it. Also, I wasn't getting any sound UNLESS I grounded the blue & brown wires? Otherwise, sounds awesome!! I think I'm like $400 all in...
275 VDC on the plates is about right for the OR20 transformer. Your voltages (220 & 140) are because you are grounding the blue/brown wires and they should not be grounded. Yes your amp works but it's pulling more on one side of the wave, so it's out of balance. It may work but it isn't right.


I think you are using (b) and you should be using (a). When using (a) you will also need a different design for your bias supply.

rectifiers.jpg

The offset center tap will be more prone to 60 cycle hum and possible note ghosting because the 220V period is doing most all of the lifting like a halfwave rectifier.

offset center tap.jpg
 
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I will go ahead and try removing it! I am using the origin 50 guts and have a 4 diode rectifier. When I had the blue and brown wires connected (but not grounded) I wasnt getting any sound at all. After grounding them I was getting enough voltage for the power transformer. I think this was before I added the artificial center tap but not sure if that would have caused no sound?
 

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Post your schematic of that board and maybe a pic of the rectifier.
 

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Yes I am. Dont mind the bees nest...
You have a FULL WAVE RECTIFIER that is center tapped (blue/brown now grounded). Your rectifier is just using 2 diodes in series for each side as a safety precaution, so you have a total of 4 diodes, but it is not a BRIDGE RECTIFIER. A bridge rectifier is what's required to properly use the stock Origin transformers. You will need to change the bias circuit (simple change) as well.

This is what you have now

rectifier22.jpg
 
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Ronquest

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BRIDGE RECTIFIER and BIAS SUPPLY for ORIGIN POWER TRANSFORMER
This is from SLUCKEY'S website, so check his work out too! Quicker than me drawing it out.

Page 8-9 of the pdf, look at the Marshall 900 circuit, that's what you want. I'll check my schematics later for exact bias resistor values I ended up with, but Sluckey's are close.
 
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