In search of authentic plexi tones at practical volumes and setups

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marshallmellowed

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Gigged for years with a 1959 super lead into 8 12” Celestions. Then focused on jazz for the next 15 years and switched to Fender and Roland amps. In recent years, I have eased back into classic rock and have enjoyed a great 50 watt plexi (1987x) running into 4 12” greenbacks.

But, more recently, I am facing the reality that I’m not getting any younger and I need to protect my hearing. After reading many positive reviews here, I acquired an SV20h. While it totally is in the plexi zone, it sounds weak sauce compared to my 1987x. If you’ve never played a 100 watt or 50 watt plexi, you will love the 20 watter. And please don’t get me wrong—I really like the SV20. It has that awesome plexi bite and controllable grind for sure. But it has little of the punch and girth of its bigger predecessors. Plus, to get it into its sweet spot, the SV20 needs to be cranked. Without an attenuator, it’s still just too loud. So add $150 to $1,500 (depending on which features you need in an attenuator) to get it under control for home use.

What really works for me is the SC20h. I have mine driving 2 -12” Celestion V-Type speakers and it sounds great at low volumes. No attenuator needed. I’m sure that, being a lower wattage amp like the SV, it lacks much of the low end punch of the higher wattage JCM800s, but for home playing, it’s much better for my needs than the SV20.

Not throwing shade of the SV at all, I really like mine. I just think that as a daily, no hassle, fun to play at low volume amp, the SC is amazing. Can get plexi enough with gain down and heavier with gain up, all at controlled loudness with that master vol knob
I totally agree with your assessment of the SV20, and lacking the "punch and girth" of the larger amps. I have both of the Studios also, as well as the larger versions of each, and I feel the Studio amps are about equal, in regards to how they stack up to their larger versions. I guess one could consider the SC20 as having an advantage in the "low volume" department, due to the mere fact that it's a master volume amp.
 
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Msharky67

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Gigged for years with a 1959 super lead into 8 12” Celestions. Then focused on jazz for the next 15 years and switched to Fender and Roland amps. In recent years, I have eased back into classic rock and have enjoyed a great 50 watt plexi (1987x) running into 4 12” greenbacks.

But, more recently, I am facing the reality that I’m not getting any younger and I need to protect my hearing. After reading many positive reviews here, I acquired an SV20h. While it totally is in the plexi zone, it sounds weak sauce compared to my 1987x. If you’ve never played a 100 watt or 50 watt plexi, you will love the 20 watter. And please don’t get me wrong—I really like the SV20. It has that awesome plexi bite and controllable grind for sure. But it has little of the punch and girth of its bigger predecessors. Plus, to get it into its sweet spot, the SV20 needs to be cranked. Without an attenuator, it’s still just too loud. So add $150 to $1,500 (depending on which features you need in an attenuator) to get it under control for home use.

What really works for me is the SC20h. I have mine driving 2 -12” Celestion V-Type speakers and it sounds great at low volumes. No attenuator needed. I’m sure that, being a lower wattage amp like the SV, it lacks much of the low end punch of the higher wattage JCM800s, but for home playing, it’s much better for my needs than the SV20.

Not throwing shade of the SV at all, I really like mine. I just think that as a daily, no hassle, fun to play at low volume amp, the SC is amazing. Can get plexi enough with gain down and heavier with gain up, all at controlled loudness with that master vol knob


The SV20 should have had a PPIMV on it for the price they are asking for a PCB amp period! No reason to have to pay that much plus X amount for an attenuator. I'm furious over the price hikes now. I can't save or sell anything I have to poke a stick at. Tell me how easy it is to save $1000! I would agree too the SC is more useable. Its unfortunate for those who dream to have the SV or plexi but can't because of the volume issue. I hate to think if I do get one someday is it going to be too loud to use and then what. That is why the Origin is probably a better option at this time for those tones and price. I had a 2204 so I can see how the SC is slightly different but it is still really good. They say third times a charm. We will see what happens!
 

ibmorjamn

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Good subject and good points from everyone.
The TAE looks cool except it cost more than a amp.
I started building a 10w plexi with Russian tubes but it is sitting for now.
I don’t play out so that part is not a issue. Tinnitus is why I will likely not get another big iron amp, that and we moved to a tiny house in the city.
I liked the JMD 50 , that would be a good thing to try but it’s a hybrid so it will not be exact.
I am just waiting to get the right affordable modeler. Tubes were meant to be loud and EL34’s are. I just don’t play the stage.
 

dro

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If you want to know my opinion. (which stinks)

The Studio series amps ARE a great option.....for what they are.

But don't kid yourself.

Though they may be the best option. (believe me I've waisted allot of money, trying to find a cheaper lighter option.)

The studio series sound good yes. But they are not they're big brothers.

I keep reading this same thing over and over( "I want this BUT that.)

You're going to have to settle. Question is. How much of a settle are you willing to accept.

First Marshall I played was a Major in 1980 or '81.

Been searching for that in a smaller version ever since.

Finally came to MY tone with JTM45 and analogue pedal board. ( My acceptable live tones.)

I don't do Metal per say. I play a variety of music styles.

The smaller version (for me anyway) is my pedal board into the rhythum clip on the Mini Jubilee.

Not ideal, but I can get to where I need to be. Without dragging my trailer. So it's a trade off.

Some people are even intimidated by this little rig.
Jubileestack.JPG
But my JTM45 half stack. I have been told it's too loud, before I ever plugged it in.
 

WellBurnTheSky

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The SV20 should have had a PPIMV on it for the price they are asking for a PCB amp period! No reason to have to pay that much plus X amount for an attenuator. I'm furious over the price hikes now. I can't save or sell anything I have to poke a stick at. Tell me how easy it is to save $1000! I would agree too the SC is more useable. Its unfortunate for those who dream to have the SV or plexi but can't because of the volume issue. I hate to think if I do get one someday is it going to be too loud to use and then what. That is why the Origin is probably a better option at this time for those tones and price. I had a 2204 so I can see how the SC is slightly different but it is still really good. They say third times a charm. We will see what happens!
Oh please, not that bullsh*t again...there's so much wrong on this post, including the massive signature (I mean, 11 guitars and 5 amps but whines about not being able to afford yet another amp, really ?)...
 

ichocobo

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As SV20H owner and complete newbie to this range of amps, I'd love to know what are your thoughts on this.
Giving the same gear is used beside the amps, and volume is equal, will you be able to tell wich is the 20w or the 100w:

- just by hearing it, miked or through irs
- hearing it in the same room
- playing them

Just wondering if that low end thump is noticeable in recordings or only can be felt when playing full blown with a 4x12"...
 

tallcoolone

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As SV20H owner and complete newbie to this range of amps, I'd love to know what are your thoughts on this.
Giving the same gear is used beside the amps, and volume is equal, will you be able to tell wich is the 20w or the 100w:

- just by hearing it, miked or through irs
- hearing it in the same room
- playing them

Just wondering if that low end thump is noticeable in recordings or only can be felt when playing full blown with a 4x12"...
Have you ever played through a breathing 100w 4 holer before? The issue is not ‘can you tell’—it’s that in most cases and situations doing so will get you thrown in jail. Hence why everyone needs some sort of attenuation solution. Which changes the tone.

To answer your question, while I haven’t owned a 2203/4 while I’ve had the SC20 I would bet that through the same IR no one would be able to discern one from the other. Miced through the same cab would be different b/c dialed to it’s sweet spot the 2203 would be pushing a lot more sound pressure through the speakers.

Which again, most people aren’t ever in a situation to do. So in the end is that even relevant?
 

ichocobo

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No, I haven't played a spl100 nor other high wattage marshall dimed except for the SV and the origin 20w. That's why I'm asking.
It's not relevant at all, but I'd like to know if that revered thump is because of the amp wattage or because of the sound pressure level...
 

marshallmellowed

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As SV20H owner and complete newbie to this range of amps, I'd love to know what are your thoughts on this.
Giving the same gear is used beside the amps, and volume is equal, will you be able to tell wich is the 20w or the 100w:

- just by hearing it, miked or through irs
- hearing it in the same room
- playing them

Just wondering if that low end thump is noticeable in recordings or only can be felt when playing full blown with a 4x12"...


  • just by hearing it, miked or through irs... Doubt it, as there are many other factors that come into play.
  • hearing it in the same room... Definitely, no contest.
  • playing them... Definitely, no contest.
 
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tallcoolone

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No, I haven't played a spl100 nor other high wattage marshall dimed except for the SV and the origin 20w. That's why I'm asking.
It's not relevant at all, but I'd like to know if that revered thump is because of the amp wattage or because of the sound pressure level...
It’s absolutely monstrous. Unique and impossible to recreate with any master volume, attenuator or reamper. The insane SPLs are a huge part of what makes it so unique.

No way in hell could I bring the 1959hw to any club without an attenuator.
 

ichocobo

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So, I guess it's an experience play one of those but way less of a useful tool in a small band context as the sv?

I've been asked on two bands to tame the volume of the sv, saving the full volume for lead soloing solely, while taming the volume with a ge7 in the loop for rhythm parts. What would happen if I show up with a spl???
 

tallcoolone

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So, I guess it's an experience play one of those but way less of a useful tool in a small band context as the sv?

I've been asked on two bands to tame the volume of the sv, saving the full volume for lead soloing solely, while taming the volume with a ge7 in the loop for rhythm parts. What would happen if I show up with a spl???
In any band context really. I’ll prob run the 100 at our show in a couple weeks, but I know the venue and we have our own sound guy. Plus I have a WAZA TAE that the Marshall will be going through.

IMO the Studio series Marshalls are the best thing they have released since the original JCM2000 DSLs.
 

marshallmellowed

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So, I guess it's an experience play one of those but way less of a useful tool in a small band context as the sv?

I've been asked on two bands to tame the volume of the sv, saving the full volume for lead soloing solely, while taming the volume with a ge7 in the loop for rhythm parts. What would happen if I show up with a spl???
With an SLP? People would say "F#$k Yeah, now that's an amp!", and then ask you to turn it down. :)
 

Mitchell Pearrow

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I am not trying to chase any tone, I have played through a 100 watt 4 holer at 7, and it is a experience you will never forget, this is a sample of close but no cigar, 2 Origin 50H’s on low power, and a 3210 lead 100 mosfet being fed fx send into the clean channel, mxr10 band eq, SD1 Gibson LP Traditional.
Thanks for listening.
Cheers
Mitch
 

marshallmellowed

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I'd add the Jubilee reissue, but aside from that, I wholeheartedly agree.
My only issue (or is it re-issue?) with the 2555x, is that, unlike the 1959 SLP and 2203x Re-issues, it is quite a departure from the original Jubilees, not true to the original build specs. It does sound fairly close to the originals, and has external bias adjustments, so I'll give it that.
 

WellBurnTheSky

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My only issue (or is it re-issue?) with the 2555x, is that, unlike the 1959 SLP and 2203x Re-issues, it is quite a departure from the original Jubilees, not true to the original build specs. It does sound fairly close to the originals, and has external bias adjustments, so I'll give it that.
I haven't played either an original Jube or a Slash sig in over 20 years, so I couldn't tell. But I really like the reissue (both 100w and 25w versions), great sounding amp if you want a darker Marshall with an EQ section that's more flexible than most. Plus it has cool features (the external bias circuitry), and isn't crazy expensive (1100-ish euros). Almost purchased one on several occasions, and still would. Much better than the JVM (never gelled with that one) and the Astoria (and God knows I wanted to like the Dual and Custom but...didn't).
 

Chris-in-LA

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So, I guess it's an experience play one of those but way less of a useful tool in a small band context as the sv?

I've been asked on two bands to tame the volume of the sv, saving the full volume for lead soloing solely, while taming the volume with a ge7 in the loop for rhythm parts. What would happen if I show up with a spl???
Turn down your SV? That doesn’t seem right. It depends on where or who you’re playing with I guess. I used to play with a loud drummer in a rehearsal space. I had to wear earplugs just for him so my 50 watt 1987x fit right in. Later we got a singer who complained that we were too loud and I had to buy an attenuator. Most recently I’ve been able to use a JTM45, the room volume isn’t too bad but we still wear earplugs. The only way I can play without earplugs is to bring one of my JCM800’s as they can be turned down and still get grind. I prefer the Plexi dynamics to the JCM’s but the JCM’s sound great in their own way.
 

marshallmellowed

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Turn down your SV? That doesn’t seem right. It depends on where or who you’re playing with I guess. I used to play with a loud drummer in a rehearsal space. I had to wear earplugs just for him so my 50 watt 1987x fit right in. Later we got a singer who complained that we were too loud and I had to buy an attenuator. Most recently I’ve been able to use a JTM45, the room volume isn’t too bad but we still wear earplugs. The only way I can play without earplugs is to bring one of my JCM800’s as they can be turned down and still get grind. I prefer the Plexi dynamics to the JCM’s but the JCM’s sound great in their own way.
Sounds like your drummer could be a PITA. I had our drummer start using lighter sticks at practice and small venues, it was the only way to get the volume down to a reasonable "indoor" level. He doesn't like using the lighter sticks, but the rest of us don't want to wear earplugs, he's outnumbered.
 
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